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Discussion Starter #1
I had a little slop in my throttle play, and went to adjust the cable at the throttle body pulley per the oh so helpful manual:rolleyes:. Lacking an offset 10mm wrench, I found it impossible to loosen the locking nut on the upper adjuster due to the frame, etc. being in the way, but I was able to loosen the lower one with a bit of difficulty, so just took out the slop with the lower barrel nut.

Does anyone know if it's okay to dial the slop out this way, or is there some reason you have to use both adjusters?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks egra - I visited the site and got some useful info (good 'ol webbikeworld comes through again:D). Interestingly, the wbw guy had an easier time with the top nut than the bottom - just the opposite of me. Probably just depends on where the nut flats are on any given bike. Anyway, it was a bugger but I didn manage to adjust top and bottom, and turned them so that the same amount of the adjuster barrel showed top and bottom, which is how they were before the adjustment. When I measured like shown on wbw, I think I had maybe 4+ mm. Now it's about 1.5.

The wbw guy says Ducati recommends balancing the throttle bodies any time you adjust the cable (the manual doesn't mention this). He held off getting the throttle bodies adjusted, but still says the cable adjustment was best thing he'd done to the bike to date and that it made throttle response more linear and eliminated about 95% of the on/off jerkiness. I just finished and was too tired to gear up and test ride, but just from trying it in the driveway it seems smoother with less of that little hesitant hiccup\cough when you give the throttle a good twist.

I'm curious if anyone here thinks the throttle body adjustment is necessary, and if so, why? I'm about 1k miles from my 7500 mile service so if it is necessary, I hope it can wait until then.
 

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The throttle body adjustment has nothing to do with the cable adjustment. As long as you have a little slack in your cables you'll be fine. On my last GT I adjusted out all of the slack. It was great for awhile until my throttle would stick. I had to loosen them up a little and that fixed it. You should be fine though.
 

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This issue confused me too. All I did was take out the play on the 'pull' cable, but did not adjust the 'push' one. Is this OK? I've been running the bike this way since I got it.
 

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This issue confused me too. All I did was take out the play on the 'pull' cable, but did not adjust the 'push' one. Is this OK? I've been running the bike this way since I got it.
If your throttle is working nice and smooth you should be fine.
 

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This issue confused me too. All I did was take out the play on the 'pull' cable, but did not adjust the 'push' one. Is this OK? I've been running the bike this way since I got it.
Same thing. The "play" is the slop between activating the "push" and the "pull." Tightening either side reduces the play for both.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Reduced throttle play = much smoother bike!

Took a test ride this evening and wow - what a difference taking out most of the play makes regarding the low speed jerkiness that most of us notice! The webbikeworld guy was right about what a huge benefit this provides. Take offs, low speed parking lot driving, 1st-2nd-3rd gear shifts, 1st and 2nd gear corners - all much smoother. Roll offs are much better too.

The play issue had been nagging me for a couple of months, but each time I'd measure it, I thought it was only about 2mm. Turns out that I was not taking into account the circumferential travel which really made the play like 4-5mm. The recommended 1.5-2mm is barely discernable when you twist the throttle, so now I know that any more than just a hint of play means there's too much.
 
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