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Discussion Starter #1
In trying to sell the 2007 1098 I wanted to start it up to make sure it ran properly. Full Spectrum Battery P3 (360CCA - 3-4 years old) was charged overnight on their custom balance charger that I bought. The other changes of consequence:

Full engine rebuild by DucPond (Winchester)
DucShop ECU
Upgraded battery cables
7000 miles

It was trying to start [and did for a few moments then cold stalled] but then eventually seized. I thought I had a bad starter so I prepared to yank it:


The teeth from the int gear actually jammed against the idler gear. It also managed to warp the idler gear to the point where the centering pin might be wedged in there completely.

So naturally have to replace the 2 or 3 parts but this is ridiculous. Am I doing something wrong? Could it be too much advance at idle from the race ECU?

Thanks
 

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It looks like the intermediate gear pin is broken. Whether a tooth broke first and walked the gear will be determined upon disassembly. Don't see how you could have predicted the failure unless you had a hydro lock situation that you ignored, but you said it started, so no. It looks like a starter inflicted failure but again you said it started. I hope the case is ok.

How long was it sitting before you decided to sell it?
 

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What's with the paper gasket? They went out in like 1995. To much advance at cranking speed will cause a lot of kick back which kills sprags. And so does a low cca battery. I would check both. If the pin has deformed the case your fucked. If this is the case you can salvage things but at a price. That price is a later version (1198) alternator with idler pin support and a longer idler pin. The thread holding the old pin in place but the bolt will be bent. New pin and new straight boltthen devcon where the divot is and the new cover and the thing will give you no more grief. I've done two like this. The alternative is pull the motor and square it on a mill then sleeve the hole.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It looks like the intermediate gear pin is broken. Whether a tooth broke first and walked the gear will be determined upon disassembly. Don't see how you could have predicted the failure unless you had a hydro lock situation that you ignored, but you said it started, so no. It looks like a starter inflicted failure but again you said it started. I hope the case is ok.

How long was it sitting before you decided to sell it?
Spent some time with it today and the gear pin is definitely bent. May have even happened over time after the first time it happened? But I ordered the pin, washers, and both gears to replace it all.

It had sat for over a month if not longer since I got the R1.

What's with the paper gasket? They went out in like 1995. To much advance at cranking speed will cause a lot of kick back which kills sprags. And so does a low cca battery. I would check both. If the pin has deformed the case your fucked. If this is the case you can salvage things but at a price. That price is a later version (1198) alternator with idler pin support and a longer idler pin. The thread holding the old pin in place but the bolt will be bent. New pin and new straight boltthen devcon where the divot is and the new cover and the thing will give you no more grief. I've done two like this. The alternative is pull the motor and square it on a mill then sleeve the hole.
Hahaha paper came with a kit when I ordered a replacement sprag and hardware last time. To be honest I've never had any problems with it (2nd time I've used it and have it on the water pump as well) plus no surface to clean and prep if I have to replace it?

I connected it to the laptop and to take look at the DucShop Map that's in there and had to tweak the software since I hadn't used it since upgrading to Win10. But I'm going to wait to speak to him this week before messing with anything. I think the battery should be set since it has 360CCA?
 
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