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I'm also wondering about the maxifuse vs. circuit breaker. Anyone know how reliable those breakers are?
Most circuit breakers have time-delay built into them. For the big fuse between the RR and the battery, I would stay with a fast-acting fuse. Fuses are cheap. RRs are not. Or "other" solid state parts that might blow (i.e. ECU).
 

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St2 Charging Problems

Hi
I have 2 97/98 ST2 motorcycles one of which has had continual and repeated regulator/ stator failures. So I thoughtI would post a possible solution that has worked for me - but is not for the faint hearted.
Having read a large amount of imformation in a variety of places about permanent magnet type alternator systems two important points are apparent
1} It is impossible to reduce the power output of these alternators - (except by reducing RPM )
2) Constantly shorting or open circuiting the alternator output with the regulator rectifier leads to failure of either the regulator or stator respectively.
Ducati made what seems to be an error when they took the electrical system off the earlier ducatis and attempted to upgrade the electrical system by installing stronger magnets in the rotor - the large amount of misery that has ensued through the years I can only imagine.
Now to a possible solution
2 after market stators are avaliable via electrosport - one that is 30mm thick and one that is 18mm thick - the standard statr in the 97/98 models is 18mm. I do not know which model fits the 30mm stator however this solution requires the 30mm stator.
When you have the 30mm stator in hand do the following
1) Remove the wiring from the stator
2) Remove laminations from the stator until the stator is about 22mm thick
3) Rewind the stator with 14 AWG enamelled magnet wire avaliable from ( Remington wire)
4) Replace the probably suspect regulator with an FH-022A ( avalible from roadster.com)
5) Use 10 AWG for all external wiring ( alternator to regulator and regulator to battery )
6) Remove existing stator and replace with modified stator
7) Mount the regulator on the fork clamp below the air intake
Go riding
( I have done around 5000 miles thus far with no problems yet )
 

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Why a 3 phase RR can be used on a single phase stator:

In case UR curious "why" you can use 2 of the 3 wires, and tape off the extra one, here's why:

Basically, UR only using 2 pair of devices inside the RR, rather than 3 pair.
 

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Hi
I have 2 97/98 ST2 motorcycles one of which has had continual and repeated regulator/ stator failures. So I thoughtI would post a possible solution that has worked for me - but is not for the faint hearted.
Ive got that bike that keeps popping stators. Damn. Some ST2's are super reliable. Weird.
 

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Ive got that bike that keeps popping stators. Damn. Some ST2's are super reliable. Weird.
And I've got THAT 848 that keeps popping stators...

Just replaced my 3rd stator in 12 months. Use the MOSFET kit to replace the RR at the same time this time (just replaced with a second-hand OEM unit last time).

Installed as per instructions, but voltage at idle, after fully charging my battery overnight, hovers between 14.7 and 15.1 volts. This seems higher than others are reporting... but it may also be possible that my battery isn't as flash as it was. I did also replace the battery when I did this last (10 months ago), and I caught the problem before the voltage drop left me stranded (due to paranoid checking of the voltage at every startup since I've had these problems).

I purchased the MOSFET RR kit from Moto Electrix (MOTOELECTRIX), so I'm pretty sure it's a genuine unit.

Has anybody had voltage readings this high after installing this RR? Bike is a 2010 848 Superbike.

Cheers!
Michael.
 

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And I've got THAT 848 that keeps popping stators...

Just replaced my 3rd stator in 12 months. Use the MOSFET kit to replace the RR at the same time this time (just replaced with a second-hand OEM unit last time).

Installed as per instructions, but voltage at idle, after fully charging my battery overnight, hovers between 14.7 and 15.1 volts. This seems higher than others are reporting... but it may also be possible that my battery isn't as flash as it was. I did also replace the battery when I did this last (10 months ago), and I caught the problem before the voltage drop left me stranded (due to paranoid checking of the voltage at every startup since I've had these problems).

I purchased the MOSFET RR kit from Moto Electrix (MOTOELECTRIX), so I'm pretty sure it's a genuine unit.

Has anybody had voltage readings this high after installing this RR? Bike is a 2010 848 Superbike.

Cheers!
Michael.
Where are you getting that voltage reading from? If that is taken from the battery terminals, I would be concerned.
15.1 is too high, and will cook a battery. Ive installed dozens of Shindengen MOSFET regulators (020, 775, 847) and Ive never seen voltage over 14.7.
 

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Where are you getting that voltage reading from? If that is taken from the battery terminals, I would be concerned.
15.1 is too high, and will cook a battery. Ive installed dozens of Shindengen MOSFET regulators (020, 775, 847) and Ive never seen voltage over 14.7.
Thanks for the reply.

That reading was from the dashboard voltage reading. I've since learned that that reading might not be reliable, and have been meaning to put a voltage detector directly on the battery to confirm.

However, since I posted the information above, I haven't seen a voltage on the dash display above 14.7, so it looks like it's settled down now.

Voltage via the dash display is pretty constant now - will go to 14.6/14.7 when I first start the engine, then usually drop to about 14.3 when the headlights turn on (I have aftermarket HID headlights that have a delay in turning on).

Touch wood - the combination is still working after nearly 2 months (around 1200 kilometres travelled), which is far longer than previous efforts. I reinstalled the fairings the other day, so I'll now see if the increased heat on the unit is going to change anything...

Cheers!
Michael.
 

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Replaced the RR in my 91 900SS with FH016AA from a Kawasaki, works great. Did not connect up all the wires but it seems to be alright.
Connected the two stator wires to two of the three on the RR
Ran wires direct to battery from + and - outputs on the RR with a fast blow 30amp fuse on the positive lead.

I have no electrics accessories anything on the bike

Mounted location is under the steering head, above the oil cooler. Was able to only use one of the bolt holes to hold it on, but it is secure and picks up the air flow through the fairing openings.

FH016AA was $60 from a wrecked ZX6 2007 model, (had only couple hundred miles on it so it is new), a couple bucks for wire, waterproof fuse holder, shrink wire wrap and crimp connectors.
 

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rectifier problems...

I got a FH020AA from Jack Fleming @ Roadstercycle.com. I was able to fabricate a custom bracket that mounted to the original place behind the steering head. Connectors clear the frame and I used a 30 amp blade fuse. Works perfectly, 14.4 vdc at 3000 rpm. Wiring was modified from stock and everything works as designed.:smile2:

Fred H.
 

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I'm about to replace the R/R on my 97 916 Biposto with a MOSFET unit from Jack at Roadstercycle.

I'm interested whether anyone reused the existing loom for the battery lead side?
 

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the fix...

If you have the skills, why not upgrade the wiring. New, bigger wires will not be regretted later.....

Fred H.
 

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Has anybody tried Oldone’s fix. Does “remove laminations” mean taking off layers of the windings or does it refer to the body of the stator?
 
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