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Yes, good question. I just put one of these MOSFET regulators on my bike tonight, and am now wondering what to do with those wires. One of them goes to the warning light on the instrument panel, and the other goes to a relay ('95 900SS). Anyone?
 

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After reading this I had a couple dumb questions:
1. What do you mean "ripple"?
2. I have a 99 996 with the three phase system, would this be a good upgrade to my bike?

Great post BTW.

Thanks,
David
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Mosfet regulator rectifier for 1098

Its been some time now since I installed the FH012AA MOSFET (FET) unit into my '97 748 and even though these units are designed for a three phase systems it has worked flawlessly on the single phase 748.

The 748 now has a new owner and I've moved to a 1098s. Convinced of the merits of FET units and mistrusting of the Ducati OEM units I decided to flick it and install the Shindingen FH012AA MOSFET into the 1098, so this update is for the benefit of anyone curious about the process for a 1098 and most likely an 1198 also.

As with the 748 I elected to replace the OEM wiring entirely with silicone encapsulated wire. This requires that both the oil and coolant be drained from the bike. You also need to remove the countershaft sprocket cover, clutch slave cylinder and clutch pushrod.

Tip: If you find you can't disengage the pushrod by hand try fitting a chuck to the end and use it to grasp. I happen to have a stand alone chuck available for the job but you could of course use the chuck of an electric or even a hand drill.

Those steps completed, disconnect the battery, R/R connector, side stand connector and remove the L.H.S. crank case cover being prepared for a small amount of oil to escape. You don't actually need to remove the battery bracket but you will want to remove the R/R fuse holder which is found on the forward face of the battery bracket so remove the battery to facilitate this step.

Remove the bolt holding the gear change lever marking its orientation on the spline and disengage the lever. Keep track of the order of the crank case bolts as there are different sizes. Once all bolts are removed you need a special Ducati tool to remove the crank case cover but you can make one quite easily. See below pics courtesy 748 Haynes manual. This tool worked perfectly on my 748 however keep an eye on proceedings on a 1098 as the casing did not withdraw squarely. Be careful with this process remembering that there's a powerful magnet behind the case so don't get your fingers between the casing cover and the casing itself without the tool in place.






At this stage you can remove the stator and desolder the wires replacing with your choice. The silicone wiring I used has a larger diameter than the OEM so I had to dremel out the holes in the rubber grommet. I also pressed some silicone sealant into the holes once the wires were threaded through just to ensure no leakage.

To remove the OEM R/R simply remove the ECU unit via the two retaining bolts remembering to replace the earth during reassembly. Then remove the two holding the regulator rectifier itself.

The FH012AA unit will fit behind the ECU but you'll need to make a small bracket (90mmx110mm). I simply made one from a piece of 2mm aluminium plate. I drilled and countersunk two holes corresponding to the OEM R/R then drilled two more holes for the new FET unit offsetting them to the left of centre a bit to accommodate the Furukawa connectors. I also countersunk these holes from the reverse side so as to have the unit rest on the mounting plate.

The issue that concerned me most was whether or not by installing the FET unit I'd be able to retain the voltage display that you access via the instrument menu, since the OEM R/R has, beside the three yellow stator wires, two red and two black wires whereas the FET has only one red and one black (plus stators). After unraveling the wiring I found all associated red wires crimped together (see below) so figuring there wasn't a dedicated voltage feedback circuit I did the following and I'm pleased to report the voltage display still functions.



From the picture above I:

1. Terminated and insulated both black wires. (A & B)
2. Cut the two red wires (C & D) just above the crimp, (these two go back into the loom) and solder them together. Then solder to them a length of silicone encapsulated wire to run back to the R/R fuse. Alternately don't cut them just cut the two lower reds (F & G) and blacks (H & I) and retain OEM wire E back to fuse.
3. The positive from the R/R also needs to go to the fuse which is tricky since the fuse holder does not easily disassemble in order to reuse the internal spade connector. I would recommend, if you're thinking of purchasing one of these FET units along with the Furukawa water resistant connectors you purchase a replacement fuse holder also. You cannot, as I understand it, purchase a Ducati OEM fuse holder separately so you may need to consider a different type and mounting position. Be sure to get a decent quality min 30amp unit. Avoid these mini inline fuse setups as seen on this page: Charging System Diagnostics - Rectifier/Regulator Upgrade - Page 2 - Triumph Forum: Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums

You can purchase these FET units and the Furukawa connectors from Eastern Beaver however I purchased mine on ebay through Jason and was happy with the deal. He is seller: jasonmotoelectrix

There is also another connector from Triumph which is only about $10 which could be used in some situations, I didn't look into it but you can read about it on the page below. It is part number: T2500676
Charging System Diagnostics - Rectifier/Regulator Upgrade - Page 2 - Triumph Forum: Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums

There's a good thread by DEcosse if you would like to read more over at the Triumph forum.
Charging System Questions, Comments & Upgrade Results - Triumph Forum: Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums

Obviously the above is not a comprehensive instruction on getting this job done but hopefully it provides a general guide for anyone interested.


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Discussion Starter #46
Multistrada Regulator Rectifier

In response to earlier questions from greenmonster and others this page (pg 50):

2010_multistrada_1200_s_abs

illustrates part number 54040301A (the R/R for a 2010 1200s Multistrada) which does appear to be a Shindengen MOSFET unit judging by the shape and particularly the connector plugs which require the Furukawa connectors. Pro Italia list it for $205.58, unfortunately I can't tell which particular unit it is i.e FH012AA, FH016A or some other. And forget getting any info from Shindengen on specs, I've tried and read where others have also tried to no avail.

I recently saw another R/R unit who's markings look suspiciously like those of Shindengen but it was a SCR type, I don't recall the number but it was preceeded by "SH" meaning SCR type shunt regulators. The FET units, as I mentioned earlier ar marked FH*** so it would seem Ducati are getting both MOSFET and SCR R/R's from Shindingen.

I'd be curious to know which model FET is being used on the Multistrada, if anyone knows or can find out the number stamped on it please let us know. It would also be useful to have the specs for the Multistrada i.e. alternator output ?watts.
 

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98 ST 2 Regulator Rectifier Upgrade Relocation

Hi all,

When I first discovered this wonderful forum I was trying to sort out a mysterious earth leak on my '97 748.The current leak was actually a secondary problem which I'd wanted to sort out once and for all and several members chimed in with advice and assistance which I thank them for once again.
Hello DropLock,

I wanted to stop by and share a thank you for producing this article. I used it as my guide for upgrading and relocating the RR for my 98 ST2 to Monsterish conversion. It works PERFECT and the cool running RR now sets under the tail end of my seat.

Just imagine how the girls who ride feel when they dismount???? LOL

KUDO and Thanks for putting this great instructional out for all us needing Ducatis-for-Dummies to get through life.

Pete

 

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Discussion Starter #49
98 ST in WV - It's always nice to hear that the info has helped someone out so thanks for your post, its much appreciated.

... and trust me I know exactly how girls feel when they get off the bike...:D:D:D

Thank you too hugo.
 

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Dumb question.
If I'm going to use this on a 3 phase system is there an order to the stator wires?
Or can I just connect them to the new regulator.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
It's not a dumb question, and no there's no specific order you can connect any of the three stator wires to any of the three stator pins on the regulator.

And for an update the one I installed on the 1098s is still going strong.
 

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Just finished wiring a 04 thru 07 Honda regulator to my 99 996.
It works great and was only 75 bucks.
I just thought I would let everyone know
 

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Wired to Battery

Did anyone wire the new R/R to the actual bike wire harness or did everyone just wire it straight to the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
I ran the wiring back to the battery. I suppose you could splice it into the harness provided you splice into the right wires and for added protection it's best to put an inline fuse.

What wires were you thinking of, is there some difficulty accessing the battery?
 

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FH010BA works on ST '98!!

Hi, just to confirm that also a FH010BA is working on a ST 98 with two fase system, i cut away a little part of the lower front fairing to fit the regulator, fins are slight sticking outside in the driving air so there is plenty of cooling .

have done about 1400Km over the last Weekend and no problems .

It even does not get warm.

(I always drive with the Headlights on so there is a little less amps to dissipate by the reg, but i am sure with the lights off there would be no issues as well)

I used the original wire harness, I just cut away the wires short on the original regulator and used the plugs from Eastern Beaver,

Also I direct soldered/brazed the two yellow wires from the stator that went to the "overheated" connector, so no heat issues here anymore.

The FH010BA was from a ZX10 and they cost a little less that the wanted FH012, but it seems they do the job just as good.

Really happy with this mod,:D

Best Regards,

Peter
 

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mosfet

Just swapped out the old RR with a Mosfet type (Shindengen FH020AA) on my 999. The stock RR was getting very hot and unstable. Made a simple aluminum holder and secured it on the horn bracket mounts. Now it's running cooler with consistency in charging voltage. Thanks for the great info in this thread!

 

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Just swapped out the old RR with a Mosfet type (Shindengen FH020AA) on my 999. The stock RR was getting very hot and unstable. Made a simple aluminum holder and secured it on the horn bracket mounts. Now it's running cooler with consistency in charging voltage. Thanks for the great info in this thread!

Nice job!! Might have to do this on the 999 track bike as I'd like to replace the battery hoder with a cf one.
 

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Yes, good question. I just put one of these MOSFET regulators on my bike tonight, and am now wondering what to do with those wires. One of them goes to the warning light on the instrument panel, and the other goes to a relay ('95 900SS). Anyone?
I don't see that anyone answered your question. How did this work out for you?
I just acquired a 1994 Elefant and am replacing the regulator with one of the FH020AA kits - no connections for the charging light circuit. But then none of my other bikes have ever had charging light indicators or voltmeters from the factory. I always put voltmeters on them myself to keep track of charging health.
 
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