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Discussion Starter #1
Over winter and riding in cooler temps my idle was just fine but, now that temps are above 60 it seems my bike dies every time I come to a stop. And its about to get me killed or ruin my starter. I've had her at the dealer twice and don't understand that, "turn the f'n idle up" doesn't seem to register with them. Anyways, I remember reading that there was a fix for that? Some electronic gizmo I can hook to my bike and do it myself? Because I don't think I'll let the dealer touch my bike again. Any help is much appreciated!
 

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Unfortunately it's not as simple as just "turn the f'n idle up." That isn't fixing the problem.

I don't know if there have been any updates since my bike was in for repair last summer.... but there was a test procedure that Ducati N.A. had for the dealers to diagnose and possibly fix the stalling. My dealer did that 3 hour long process and had my bike running perfectly.

I only left the bike stock for another 500 miles or so after that. In that 500 miles it didn't stall once.

I eventually installed a Termignoni slip-on ECU and Leo Vince exhaust.
 

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As Markdfriggin said, I too took my hyper to the dealer with the same stalling problem that nearly got me killed taking off from lights when it would stall during decel/branking. THe dealer was pissed about having to go through the 3 pages of diagnostics but in the end it ran great afterawards. My salvation from the constant stalling was the fatduc 02 manipulator that i was able to tune to make my stock bike run right. after playing with the idle/air screws a bit I was able to get the bike running great, but have since gone to the DP ECU for the 2 into 1 exhaust. Seems the bike runs too lean even while stock and ducati NA wouldn't throw in for an ecu upgrade. Somehow my dealer got the bike to run even better with no stalling, but i questioned how well it was really running given the limitations of the stock ecu. It ran better with the fatduc 02 manipulator while stock, but runs better with the DP ECU, exhaust, and filter.

Basically go with the fatduc until you decide to upgrade the exhaust and/or ecu...
 

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I have had my bike in the shop ELEVEN times for this. They finally sent the heads to Melli Moto (sp) to have some work done. Something with valve guides or something. I can't remember. They said the compression was low. They have torn my engine apart quite a few times.

Unfortunately South Carolina has no lemon law for motorcycles.
 

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I small adjustment on your air bleed screws will go a long way but the fact is they are set so lean to meet EU3 emissions that they don't operate correctly as you have found.

Fatduc or DP ECU is the best cure.
 

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I small adjustment on your air bleed screws will go a long way but the fact is they are set so lean to meet EU3 emissions that they don't operate correctly as you have found.

Fatduc or DP ECU is the best cure.
I know that and my dealer says the same thing but Ducati won't allow the performance ecu under warranty. My dealer has tried and got denied.They told the service dept it's off road only. But if I buy it it's OK. They just want money from me.

This is my first and last Ducati.


Think I'll try the Fatduc next.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thank you all for your constructive responses. Got the Termi slip-ons with performance ECU. What a bitch that was to install! I hate allen bolts ever since.
 

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With that new ECU you should still need to do the standard adjustments for
Ducati EFI-- reset the throttle position sensor (TPS), idle air bleed adjust, and
tweak the fuel trim using an exhaust gas analyzer CO measurement. Dealer
should be able to do these in short order, since they do them frequently and
have the equipment. The zero point for the TPS and the fuel trim numbers
are stored in the ECU, so a new ECU would not be correct, having defaults
and never having been adjusted.
 

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Recently with the warmer weather,I have only had the engine quit a couple of times idling after start-up. A few times during break-in the engine quit right after I pulled in the clutch with the engine RPM's heading towards idle.
I am using a fat-duc which is great. I may need to change it up a bit now that warm weather is around.
 

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i bought my hyper with the DP race ecu, airbox, and termi 2-1 already installed. my bike STILL stalls quite a bit. i can't help but notice that it smells like it's running hella rich at idle... and my fuel light comes on at around 60 miles (is this typical??)
 

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i bought my hyper with the DP race ecu, airbox, and termi 2-1 already installed. my bike STILL stalls quite a bit. i can't help but notice that it smells like it's running hella rich at idle... and my fuel light comes on at around 60 miles (is this typical??)
Uhh, no. 60 miles from a full tank to fuel light on? Should be in the 90-100 mile
range. I would get a dealer or someone with the diagnostic equipment to do
a full EFI adjustment (TPS reset, idle air bleeds, fuel trim, and possibly a throttle
body synch). I wonder if someone just bolted on the new ECU and never did
any adjustments at all...
 

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i bought my hyper with the DP race ecu, airbox, and termi 2-1 already installed. my bike STILL stalls quite a bit. i can't help but notice that it smells like it's running hella rich at idle... and my fuel light comes on at around 60 miles (is this typical??)
I added the PCIII to the Zard full system, DP lid, DNA filter, and DP ECU and had it dyno tuned. I now get horrible mileage and the motor appears to be running a little rich. I get the fuel light coming on in 65-70 mile range. However, it runs very strong so I believe it is set up right. My fuel mileage stock was 40+ mpg, with the slip ons, DP lid, DNA filter, and DP ECU it dropped to around 32-34 mpg, with the full system, DP lid, DNA filter, and DP ECU, and PCIII it is around 26-28 mpg. Ahhhh, the perils of performance.

The only problem I get is an occasional stall if I do a quick throttle blip while sitting at stop or coasting to a stop. A little annonying, but not bad..........I am going to have them look at it again.

Out!
 

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maybe i'm in the neighborhood of running "right" then... the dealer i bought from claims to have dyno tuned the bike and not just bolted things up. my stalling is also only when you give it a quick blip of throttle or very occasionally when returning to idle. i can certainly attest that this thing runs very very strong. i recently rode with another hyper and a tuned multi (tuned to the nuts, cams, etc.) and they were both astonished how this thing would almost walk on either of their bikes especially in 3rd or 4th gear roll ons. i guess you pay to play...
 

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i bought my hyper with the DP race ecu, airbox, and termi 2-1 already installed. my bike STILL stalls quite a bit. i can't help but notice that it smells like it's running hella rich at idle... and my fuel light comes on at around 60 miles (is this typical??)
Hey Kyle, I don't have any stalling issues but, I have had pretty much the same issues with mileage. I have the 2-1-2 with the DP lid and ECU right from day one from the dealer. The bike seemed to run fine through the first 400 miles and I would get about 100 miles to the tank. Then the mileage dropped down to about 60 and then the check engine light came on for about 10 minutes. Soon after I got as low as 40 Miles to the TANK! This was right when the bike hit the first service. The Ducati mechanic Chris in NY found it was a bad barometric pressure switch and the bike ran closed loop rich - evident by the carbon in the pipes and the terrible mileage. I brought the bike in when the switch came in and they re-tuned the bike and the power seems awesome. I haven't gotten through a tank yet but I'll let you know how it goes.
 

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If it's stalling it ain't set up right, period. You don't need to juice the bike like
a AA fuel dragster to get strong performance. If average fuel mileage drops
below 33 or so mpg, it would seem likely that a significant amount of raw,
unburned fuel is being dumped out the tailpipe, and not contributing to HP.
I have a feeling a lot of this is happening in the part throttle area which was
originally controlled by the closed-loop mode, and dispensed with by the DP
ECU.

With your bike having a PC III, Axe, it would be interesting to download the
"zero map" to the Power Commander for a day or so and see how she fares,
then revert back to the custom map. Then possibly remove boosts in the
<25% throttle region. BTW, is the 'accelerator pump' feature turned on?

The common thread between these two bikes (Kyle and Axe) is they were both
dyno-tuned, which appears to have worked from a power standpoint, but one
wonders if they've gone overly rich in order to reduce any potential liability
for a bike that runs too hot. Shop manager to Dyno Don: "When in doubt,
rich it out!"

With the stock Hyper tank, it seems like a good idea to give some priority to
fuel mileage, although, with the new larger tank coming available, one could
just fill 'er up like an Exxon mothership and ride off... :cool:
 

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makes me curious.... i'm definitely not exactly excited with the mileage, mostly because i plan to do some fairly long stints in the saddle with this thing. i'll get it to the dealer to check a few things out, including the pressure switch. i just rode maybe 100 miles today and fuel light didnt come on until 74 miles from full. that was a good mix of dense traffic (never rests in chicago) and highway cruising at 80+ mph. i'd like to get a straight highway blast to see if the around town part throttle is what is killing me. i did notice today though, when i traded off with a buddy (696 monster) that the exhaust smelled rich riding behind my bike. we'll see.

as a funny aside, my buddy gets on the hyper and we set off down the road. first stoplight, i hear him short shift, catch second, and then witness my bike pull the sickest wheelie i think it's ever pulled! now, i know my friend very well, and i know this isn't him, so i'm laughing so hard i'm crying in my helmet (seeing as he didn't lay it down) it was actually quite graceful... next light, he flips up his visor and says "this thing is a fu*kin savage!!!" made my day :D
 

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Why don't you just adjust the throttle stop screw. I had an '04 S4r that did the same thing. A half turn or so, worked fine. $free$
That's a quick fix IF the idle speed is low (spec'd is 1300+/-50). If the idle RPM
is right, there are some disadvantages to jacking it. Also, the stalling might still
be happening even if the idle is raised significantly, depending on the source
of the problem. Even further, changing to a new throttle stop means the
throttle position sensor is not zeroed at idle anymore, giving the EFI an error
in where it "thinks" the throttle position is. This error, however small, becomes
more significant as the throttle approaches fully closed. This is why the TPS
closed throttle position needs to be set within 0.1 degrees of the target angle.

If the throttle stop is left stock @ 3.2 degrees, and the TPS zero position is
also known by the ECU, then it should just take a tweak of the idle air bypass
screws to dial in 1300 rpm. This still doesn't mean the bike won't stall, however,
since the fuel metering could still be off, either due to incorrect mapping or
trim setting in open loop set-ups (DP race ECU's), or feedback loop problems
with the oxygen sensor in closed-loop (stock) ECU set-ups. Or a vacuum
leak. Or a timing problem. Or valve clearances way off. Or... :eek:

I'm not an expert on EFI (my brother was a fuel injection design consultant
for many years), but I do know if you start tweaking around things in a control
loop like this, you can end up way out in left field before you know it. OK,
nothing too serious, but it's not much fun having a bike that doesn't run
right.
 

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Funny this thread should start up again....... My Hyper stopped running at idle speed after I returned from my Saturday ride.

Back to the shop to re set TPS:mad:
 
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