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If your bike has a wet clutch make sure that the oil is wet clutch compatible. MA1 OR MA2 RATING
Regular car oil has fiction modifier, witch will cause the clutch to slip after prolong use.
From the OP's first (exhaustive) post, "a Oct 2000 Motorcycle Consumer News test showed that the molybdenum content of Mobil 1 MX4T motorcycle-specific oil is 5 ppm and 11 ppm for Mobil 1 15W-50 automobile-specific oil."

And as I'd discovered in another thread on BITOG, someone had contacted Shell directly regarding the FM's in their Rotella T5 15W-40, to which the Shell rep responded that similarly to MA/MA2-spec'd Rotella T3/T4 and T6, the T5 also has no FM's that would interfere with wet-clutch operation, thus the rep speculated T5 would also meet MA/MA2 if tested.

...hence my decision to go between Rotella T5 and Mobil 1 15W-50 depending on season, and later, UOA's.
 

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Fascinating writeup. I wish I understood more about the fundamental properties of oil and how it works, some of this is way over my head.
 

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I know this much; When I used Rotella because it was available and cheaper than Motul my bikes didn’t shift as well. Real world comparison of A vs B. Something is going on that I can notice that difference . I returned to Motul, shifting noticeably better. This was in both wet and dry clutch motorcycles, 900 SS , S4RS, and Hayabusa.
 

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I used Mobil1 motorcycle specific oil in my Monster once. For a hundred miles, maybe. The shifting was so poor, I drained it. That is the first (and so far, only) time I've ever done that in ~ 35 years of oil changes (car or bike). Rotella? Perfectly good.

If I'm going to spend big bucks, I'll go with Amsoil (have before).

In the end, you'd have to try pretty hard to find an oil that's going to result in a failed engine in your riding lifetime given the short OCI's used. Funny that we keep hearing (and seeing test results) that today's oils are THE BEST EVER but, people keep shortening the change intervals. If it makes one feel good, do it. I guess.
 

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In the end, you'd have to try pretty hard to find an oil that's going to result in a failed engine in your riding lifetime given the short OCI's used. Funny that we keep hearing (and seeing test results) that today's oils are THE BEST EVER but, people keep shortening the change intervals. If it makes one feel good, do it. I guess.
Truth! I laugh when people proudly chest-thump "why keep an oil in you know has sheared to below Ducati's minimum recommended viscosity spec?!", and yet at the same time, totally ignore Ducati's 7.5k OCI spec...

Personally, I've wondered why oils shear so fast in shared MC sumps, but not in the outstanding Honda manual trannies that have (in)famously used "regular" 10W-30 since forever (I added the "(in)", because they do package MTF, but it's been tested and purported by factory engineers to be repackaged, and thus overpriced, 10W-30). No one changes their tranny fluid on their 700hp turbo'd up Integra/RSX/S2K every 2-3k miles based on "shift feel"... It's oft-quoted that it's the gears shearing the polymers apart, but is it really the wet clutches on bikes doing all the damage?
 

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Just some empirical data points to throw in the mix.

1. I see very few oil related problems and when I do it is the tooth face of the gear box where you see it. If the oil is not up to the task the transmission gears will spall and you will see pitting on the tooth face.

2. slipping can be exaggerated due to a oil additive so if you try one and it does not slip you are probably fine on that front. This does not mean the oil is up to the task of keeping your gearbox safe.

3. detergents, some oils work well but leave a mess inside. as someone who tears motors down a lot I always prefer oils that do not leave a motor covered in sludge ,no matter how much protection they have.

4. I agree that most modern synthetics will last much longer than I will keep them in the motor.
Why change out oil that is not worn out? Because it is not the oil but the combustion byproducts that are now in the oil from blow-by that i am getting out. If you pour in a oil that looks like Corona and 1000 miles later it appears to be Guinness then I do not care that the oil is not broken down yet I will not let the engine sit in a stew of contaminants over a extended time (such as winter break).
If I got to 3000 miles and the oil still looks new I would NOT change it and so on. Too many oil changes can be as bad as not enough so it is always a balance and taking the lesser of two evils.

Next time you have the pistons out of your motor be sure to check those gears to see how your favorite oil is really working, since it is winter you might go check now...>:)
 

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I like the Mobile 1 V-Twin oil, https://mobiloil.com/en/motor-oils/mobil-1/mobil-1-v-twin-motorcycle-oil , 20W-50 in my old 900SS for a couple of reasons. Live in a hot climate, air cooled motor with dry clutch so I think the zinc and phosphorus rating becomes very important.

Changing it fairly often at 2,500 miles, because those miles are lots of short trips and I do ride it almost every day. It's easy to get lost on oil spec charts to be sure, but another factor that's important to me is that this oil is fairly easy to purchase locally at about $9/quart.
 

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What's in my ST2 for the next 1000 miles or so.....

>:)
 

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Its not the wet clutches doing the damage. It that the engine oil in bikes is also used to lube the tranny. Its the very high shearing forces at the gear tooth interfaces that destroy oil. I've been using the Rotella T6 synthetic for over a decade because it is a C rated oil. As you probably know, C is for Compression...aka: Diesel engine use. I think that is going to provide longer service life than a S rated oil.

SP3, What was the viscosity rating of that Mobil oil that caused the shifting performance to degrade? Was it different than the oil you replaced it with?
 

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….Rotella T6 synthetic for over a decade because it is a C rated oil. As you probably know, C is for Compression...aka: Diesel engine use. I think that is going to provide longer service life than a S rated oil.
I'm not doubting your thinking because I certainly don't know any better but what is it in the specification or chemistry that makes you think this?
 

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If the Rotella is protecting the tranny better, then why is shifting worse ? That makes no sense to me. Also, as far as the oil looking dirty quickly vs not wanting sludge in the engine, doesn’t that mean the contaminates are in suspension rather than dropping out and building up inside the engine ?
 

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Records show: Shell Formula Semi-Synth 20W-50 > Mobil1 20W-50 > Motul 3100 4T 15W-50. The Shell was Canadian market car stuff we had show up at the shop (Rahal; Shell was main sponsor) with a bunch of other stuff we didn't use on the racecars and were free to use as we pleased (even had straight 40 weight I used in my 250 Monza). I had enough to get two oil changes on the Monster. The Mobil1 was motorcycle specific 20W-50. Back then it wasn't marketed as 'V Twin' and had a red or black cap as I remember.
 

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oil looking dirty quickly vs not wanting sludge in the engine, doesn’t that mean the contaminates are in suspension rather than dropping out and building up inside the engine ?
Yes you would think so and you may be 100% right. What I was talking about with sludge is some oils will leave a layer/coating of black/gray throughout the inside of the motor. One is a type of Motul, I have not seen it with all Motul users but there is one product that either has a heavy amount of moly in the oil that gets everywhere or something is dirtying up the oil fast. I have never seen gear damage with the dirty oils used so that's why I think the coating may be a additive. It does not matter to me as there are a majority of oils out there that hold up to gearboxes and do not require lots of time cleaning when I am inside one.

Hey we are all part of the experiment so use anything you want just keep notes on your results and if you ever get the chance to see inside go for it.
 

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I've been out of the loop for about 5 or 6 years now (not riding/involved, that is). But I see this topic is still controversial. One thing I've come to accept is that when there are ten "right" opinions on any given subject, that means there are more than one "correct" method/answer and it's typically left to opinion and personal preferences. This topic is no different. In this thread alone there are roughly a half dozen "right" answers. This means there is no one single right answer or definitive single solution.

I find that fact to be comforting since it means there is leeway when making a choice of which oil to use.

This same mindset may also be applied to tire selection, tire pressures, suspension set-up and design choices, brake pads, brake fluids, spark plug choices, and so on. This fact doesn't make things confusing, it makes things better. It means there are a number of "right ways" to do these things. And that is a GOOD thing!

:wink2:
 

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I never understand why anyone doesn’t use what the manufactures recommend. I only use what they recommend and will only use factory oil filters. I have a 1993 GMC use factory oil, ac-Delco oil filter and battery.... 180k and runs like a top.
 

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What I find amusing is people spending $10-15-25-30K on a bike, whether for pleasure or commuting, skimp on factory recommended oil products and filters.

What I also find amusing is those same owners don't send off samples to Blackstone or equivalent labs for verification of their subjective observations.

What I find MOST amusing, is how radically ill-informed people owning high-dollar high-performance machines are about oil choice.

When I crewed for IMCA racers we dumped 10Q of 60W oil after every race, quite polluted with water from ethanol. Kendall straight weight. Over 25 years of motorcycle ownership I've never had a SINGLE oil related failure, excessive wear, or heat issue.

Modern oil is good. Use the correct viscosity and change as often as you can afford or at manu specs. Go fucking ride the thing...
 

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I’m not defending my choices, just stating that i rarely buy the recommended brand of oil for anything , I buy the correct type of oil, and get what I can find. I’m not spending $10 a quart, I don’t think it’s necessary. I buy Motul for my Ducatis and Busa because they shift better, that’s something I can actually verify personally. The rest get whatever is around, mostly name brand. Amazon with free shipping has made it so I can find good oil now and have it in two days. I don’t remember ever having an oil related problem other than an occasional leak.
 
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