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Discussion Starter #1
Well, I just test rode a 2018 1260 Touring S and wanted to share some comparisons with my 2012 Touring S. 1260 was totally stock, my 2012 has a full Termi, Ohlins SCU and upgraded springs.

Pros:
Dash was amazing
Much better below 3500 RPM
Lower seat option was good for my short legs
Quick shifter was amazing
Transmission felt smoother when shifting
Windscreen adjust is a lot easier
Cruise control

Cons:
Windscreen/helmet noise was even worse
Bike felt less nimble with slower steering
Engine felt a little too refined (Maybe with Termi it would improve a lot. I’ve never ridden a stock 2012 either.)
Frame was rubbing my inner legs. Might just be the little rubber caps.

New is what, $24,000+? My 2012 had 19K miles, came with the full Termi, Ohlins SCU, DP Comfort Seat, radiator guard, water pump guard, two piece rear sprocket and frame sliders for $9,990. I have seen better deals but those were stock bikes and mine was actually under blue book for my area.

I’m glad I rode the 1260. I’m actually happier with my bike now. ❤


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I've got to try one myself at some point. I'm at 60K miles on my '11. Still runs amazing, but it never hurts to look at the options available. Your bike is setup pretty good... The "con" on the wind buffeting could probably be resolved with a different windscreen.
 

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Well, I just test rode a 2018 1260 Touring S and wanted to share some comparisons with my 2012 Touring S. 1260 was totally stock, my 2012 has a full Termi, Ohlins SCU and upgraded springs.

Pros:
Dash was amazing
Much better below 3500 RPM
Lower seat option was good for my short legs
Quick shifter was amazing
Transmission felt smoother when shifting
Windscreen adjust is a lot easier
Cruise control

Cons:
Windscreen/helmet noise was even worse
Bike felt less nimble with slower steering
Engine felt a little too refined (Maybe with Termi it would improve a lot. I’ve never ridden a stock 2012 either.)
Frame was rubbing my inner legs. Might just be the little rubber caps.

New is what, $24,000+? My 2012 had 19K miles, came with the full Termi, Ohlins SCU, DP Comfort Seat, radiator guard, water pump guard, two piece rear sprocket and frame sliders for $9,990. I have seen better deals but those were stock bikes and mine was actually under blue book for my area.

I’m glad I rode the 1260. I’m actually happier with my bike now. ❤


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exhaust, tune, and gearing and I'm sure the 1260 will be plenty rabid... the handling would be harder to change.
 

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Well, I just test rode a 2018 1260 Touring S and wanted to share some comparisons with my 2012 Touring S. 1260 was totally stock, my 2012 has a full Termi, Ohlins SCU and upgraded springs.

Pros:
Dash was amazing
Much better below 3500 RPM
Lower seat option was good for my short legs
Quick shifter was amazing
Transmission felt smoother when shifting
Windscreen adjust is a lot easier
Cruise control

Cons:
Windscreen/helmet noise was even worse
Bike felt less nimble with slower steering
Engine felt a little too refined (Maybe with Termi it would improve a lot. I’ve never ridden a stock 2012 either.)
Frame was rubbing my inner legs. Might just be the little rubber caps.

New is what, $24,000+? My 2012 had 19K miles, came with the full Termi, Ohlins SCU, DP Comfort Seat, radiator guard, water pump guard, two piece rear sprocket and frame sliders for $9,990. I have seen better deals but those were stock bikes and mine was actually under blue book for my area.

I’m glad I rode the 1260. I’m actually happier with my bike now. ❤


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanx Opus, good thoughts and helpful to me, i had thoughts of selling my 2010 Touring to a mate, and trading my 1290 GT on the 1260, it would cost me both bikes and $6000NZ to do a deal on the top 1260 touring. I think ill keep both my bikes, $6000 buys a lot of tires and registration.
 

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Bon Vivant
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I have a 2011 Multi with aftermarket ohlins and a whole lot of other goodies. I keep riding the newer bikes as the come out and I keep loving my bike more. It's just not worth many thousands to get the newer bike. My 2011 works better for my needs and its worth peanuts these days. I have over 40K miles = lets see if we can get it to 60K! 0:)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I've got to try one myself at some point. I'm at 60K miles on my '11. Still runs amazing, but it never hurts to look at the options available. Your bike is setup pretty good... The "con" on the wind buffeting could probably be resolved with a different windscreen.


Yeah, that was more a statement about how they still hadn’t fixed the issue and in fact it was worse.

I have a Pikes Peak windscreen on my bike. I heard you either have to go really high or really low and I didn’t want to go high. :)


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Is it good in low speed? Low rpm? I ask because I’m considering buying one but I ride a lot in the city so I do low speed most of the time. I’ve heard the steering shakes a lot in low rpm/low speed.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Is it good in low speed? Low rpm? I ask because I’m considering buying one but I ride a lot in the city so I do low speed most of the time. I’ve heard the steering shakes a lot in low rpm/low speed.


Hmm. I’ve never really experienced steering shake on either bike. It’s more of a lugging/shuddering of the engine.


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Hammer Down
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Good feedback on the bike. The frame/frame plugs were noticeable in my opinion as well...makes me wonder how annoying or not they'd be on a long ride. I felt the same way about the windscreen adjustment...better than my 2014. Something else I noticed, especially at lower RPMs is the screen bouncing all over the place which I'm sure has to do with the way it's mounted in/on some sort of rubber footing which allows for that but it was silly looking. Regarding the windscreen I thought it was pretty good but I'm a few inches shorter than you and there can be as many opinions on those as buttholes. The demo I rode had the low seat which I felt sat me too low in the bike. New, the Touring S is $22,395 unless you're looking at a Pike Peak. My dealer quoted me (even though I didn't really intend to buy) basically MSRP plus taxes (he "ate" the fees) however tax on that full amount could definitely bring it to $24k range. Either way though, I agree it isn't enough to get me off my 2014. Great to hear some other opinions on the 1260 from people on our vintage bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
exhaust, tune, and gearing and I'm sure the 1260 will be plenty rabid... the handling would be harder to change.


Oh yeah, I’m also running a 42 on the rear.


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I have three windscreens for my 1260: Stock, CalSci large, and CalSci shorty. I doubt the stock screen will ever be fitted to the bike again. The CalSci large is great for a long day of riding, but at or close to fully extended, the top of that screen is close to your head. It's also tough to get it there, when moving: The air pressure on the top of the larger screen makes it difficult to adjust, you basically have to either stop or be going slow to do it.

Shorty is the most versatile of the three. In full down position you get clean air, no buffeting, nearly like riding a naked bike. Full extension causes some buffeting, but gives you something to tuck behind if you need it.

Helps that it's the best looking of the three.
 

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The rubber caps on the frame only bug me when getting on or off the bike, not while riding.

I found the buffeting of the stock windshield on the 1260 to be much less than the 2011's stock windshield. I bought a new windshield for the 2011 immediately after buying the bike because it was so horrendous. On the 1260, I'm in no hurry to replace the stock one.

Yes, turn in feels slightly slower, but when in the actual turn, the 1260 feels better.
 

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Is it good in low speed? Low rpm? I ask because I’m considering buying one but I ride a lot in the city so I do low speed most of the time. I’ve heard the steering shakes a lot in low rpm/low speed.
Engine should not be below 3500 rpms unless you are starting out in first gear. I’m not sure why people don’t seem to understand that and try to ride a Ducati around at 2000rpms. It’s not a Harley and it never will be.

Steering doesn’t shake at all. If it does, there is something else wrong with your bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Engine should not be below 3500 rpms unless you are starting out in first gear. I’m not sure why people don’t seem to understand that and try to ride a Ducati around at 2000rpms. It’s not a Harley and it never will be.



Steering doesn’t shake at all. If it does, there is something else wrong with your bike.


The only time (besides starting out) that I’m below 3500 is when I’m at that point where I’m in second and slowly moving through traffic or in a parking lot or something. The issue is that any other bike I’ve been on I never had to shift into first while moving while on my Multi I have had to shift into first any time I’m below say 15 MPH or else I’m lugging the bike. And this is with a 42 in the rear.

I commented on the 1260 being better below 3500 because that situation happens often. Just seems like you should almost never have to shift into first while moving whereas on mine I have to daily.

Edit - Maybe it’s just a twin thing. My other bikes were inline fours and V-4s.

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The only time (besides starting out) that I’m below 3500 is when I’m at that point where I’m in second and slowly moving through traffic or in a parking lot or something. The issue is that any other bike I’ve been on I never had to shift into first while moving while on my Multi I have had to shift into first any time I’m below say 15 MPH or else I’m lugging the bike. And this is with a 42 in the rear.

I commented on the 1260 being better below 3500 because that situation happens often. Just seems like you should almost never have to shift into first while moving whereas on mine I have to daily.

Edit - Maybe it’s just a twin thing. My other bikes were inline fours and V-4s.

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And that is normal for this bike. Keep it between 3500-redline and you’re fine. I have a 41T rear and it made almost zero difference. It’s just the way these bikes are setup... probably for euro emissions.

I don’t even shift into 6th unless I’m going 70mph or faster. And yes, I do shift down into first for slow right hand turns. You get used to it.
 

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Steering shakes... well if you've REALLY low or are trying to full-throttle from very low rpms.

Ducati doesn't really do 'low speed' - and their motor performance reflects that. Having said that... when touring and chasing fuel economy you can successfully use higher gears to get you into the 50mpg range (don't listen to all those sportbike guys -to them low rpms are only something you see when you're in neutral at a light).

Rapidbike helps with smoothness below 3500... I'm frequently in 6th gear down to 40mph and will cruise in 6th at 50mph all day long. If you're below 3000 you need to be light on the throttle (maintain speed or accelerate slowly) or you will get vibes (and it's probably not really good for the drivetrain getting pulsed like that) and below 2500 is not good at all except maybe in first or maybe second. It's just the way the motor is designed... and there's not really much reason to want to be down there in the first place. If you want to do low speed maneuvers then first at idle and clutch management works perfectly.

I very rarely shift to first when moving... would need to be a very slow corner (maybe a super tight hairpin), IMO second is fine the vast majority of the time and often third is fine.
 

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Engine should not be below 3500 rpms unless you are starting out in first gear. I’m not sure why people don’t seem to understand that and try to ride a Ducati around at 2000rpms. It’s not a Harley and it never will be.

Steering doesn’t shake at all. If it does, there is something else wrong with your bike.
Right on about lugging those engines.
 
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