I can verify that I can reset the service indicators with tuneboy. Just did the Desmo indicator recently.
Yes the ecu just deals with the data from the sensors. As far as I know (and I clearly do not know everything) the O2 sensors on the bike work essentially as a on off switch. The sensor reads and sends a voltage that the ecu interprets as a CO value, then the ECU takes that value and looks up what the program wants the value to be. If it is out of the range desired by the programmer it adds or removes fuel until it see's the value. This is how the aftermarket O2 sensors work IIRC they take the sensors value output and lie to the ECU so it thinks the bike is leaner than it is. The narrow range may be by design because too rich might (no idea) damage an existing catalytic converter where a de-cated bike should not be harmed.But aren't the adjustments by the O2 sensors made by the ECU, not the O2 sensors themselves?
I am not a programmer so I can not tell you why not but I would think that would be the best scenario. Rapidbike accesses and probably tricks the O2 sensors giving you control through a steal the information and lie to the ecu plan but gives more flexibility as well as keeping the O2 sensors helps the bike maintain a good air fuel ratio. In theory.. sorry my inner skeptic waiting for more long term results. I like proof more than testimonials.couldn't the ECU just be reprogramed to adjust the CO to higher levels like you say by a tuner that flashes the ECU?
I am not familiar with that system exactly but as no one really races a multistrada it is a hop up map as Nokfir2 said. Many of the performance ecu's keep the O2 sensors as well and this often is where the bikes are still lean after the new ecu is added.
Popping on decel is a lean condition as you are telling the ecu that the throttle is closed but you are still at a high rpm and forcing air into the motor due to speed as opposed to setting idling. If a dyno tuner has access to this part of the map they often will richen it so the popping is reduced. Racers don't care. Though backfires will blow exhaust packing out faster than normal.
Under 3500rpms you are on the O2 sensor portion of the map and the bike is likely lean here. If it can be richened then it will get better but that may be a big if. If you have functioning O2 sensors they will likely take away any fuel you give it unless you trick them. If they have been turned off in the ecu then the map should have been modified to be richer in this area. Often these bikes are held to about .2-.3CO in this band and best driveability will be more like 3.0-5.0 CO so you can see it is quite lean. I would start by having someone read your air/fuel and/or CO to see how lean you are and where it changes.
A dyno would be good for this but a shop with a accurate CO meter will be able to read up to 3500 on the bench as well. I just mapped a Rapidbike for a monster 1100 and it was off a ton especially down low. Getting the readings will give you a idea what the next step should be.
sounds like a map issue... the ecu switches to open loop at wot, but at part throttle uses the map. You should backup your current map and download a default map (for the termi if available) for the 950, shut off adaptive and see if it still displays the issue. Another option is to get the bypass plug and go back to stock to see if you still have the issue.Dear DucVet.
I have Multistrada 950 I put there rapid bike Evo with youtune controller and shift assist. My bike has full term exhaust with no cat and MWR filter
I am facing issues with sudden power drops at around 5,6 rpm - it happens only during moderate acceleration - if bike runs hard or light it does not happen...
Rapid bike team gave 6 different tests to be done - I did it and since last season they are not able to tell me what Is wrong.
It is so annoying that I am left alone as a customer that I am considering removing rapid unit and have my ecu reflashed by RexXer.
That Is why I would like to know what are pros an cons of reflashing compared to rapid unit.
Hi, I just saw this post now and I realize my reply is a bit late but if you haven't received an adequate answer yet I can give you some information on this stuff.My 2010 MTS S Touring has the full Termignoni with the Mitsubishi racing ECU, full decat, and O2 removed. It does run good smooth and solid pulling my arms out all the way up to redline once above about 3500 rpm. However it pops on decelerations and has snatchiness in the low range below 3500 rpm. I'm sure fuel tuning could be better. Secondarily, I also am interested in a product that could reset service indicators.
So my question is 2 parts,
1) What is the difference with the Termignoni racing ECU besides the mapping and red light? Is the racing ECU the most optimim tuning option already? Can the racing ECU be remapped and has anyone done remapping or sensor intercept tweaks with their full Termignoni-Mitsubishi racing ECU setups?
2) If so what product is best that works with the Termignoni-Mitsubishi racing ECUs? Rexxer, Rapidbike, Tuneboy, UpMap, Power Commander, Booster Plug? Is Rexxer the only one that allows service resets?
I have very little experience with ECU tuning, but I've been trying to read up on it as much as possible. I do understand the basic issues like closed/open loop and the difference between methods that reprogram the map (Rexxer), and methods that intercept the stock map fueling and modify it through meddling with inputs like lambda, etc. My 2010 MTS is my first bike last year, and I also bought a 2014 KTM 690 Duke. With the Duke I had a lot of success with the Booster Plug that just fools the system to thinking the incoming air is 30 degrees cooler. BP and taller gearing helped a lot on that bike I've been riding through the winter and now getting ready to tune up my MTS for summer.
A dyno can only really test for maximum power output. It can't do much for getting the engine to run the way you want it to, especially under part throttle and low rpm -Sounds like a huge faff around. Wouldn't a custom tune and dyno set up be more cost effective and quicker?
Do you have access to and can you edit the fuel maps? If so I may be able to give you pointers, your bike will have similar characteristics to mine, it is essentially the same engineMaybe there is someone who did similar task for rapid bike - I am still fighting very bad fuelling using rapid bike for my multistrada 950....
Just as a starting point, this is the main fuel map I have arrived at after many, many hours of experimentation.I can edit fuel maps - I appreciate your support. Thank you - maybe I will fix this jerkiness and sudden too rich mixture rapid is doing at around 5,5 rpm.
Moreover I have shift assistant and it works fine - but only with rapid unit