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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm picking up my new PS this friday with full 2-1 termignoni.
how hard is it to remove the baffle & will it give me more hp?
 

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Congratulations on your Paul Smart.

Do a search and you will find quite a few different opinions on pipes and baffles.

I've tried just about everything on my PS . . . stock pipes . . . Termi 2 into 2s with baffles in . . . and with baffles out. I now have the Termi 2 into 1. I prefer the way that the bike runs with the baffle in. It seems that a little back pressure helps . . . at least with the way my bike is set up.

The baffle is easy to remove. A tack weld holds the bolt. Grind off the weld, back the bolt out and the baffle comes out. It might be a little tight. If it won't move a slide hammer dent puller will pull it out. (You can find them at auto supply stores.)
 

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Mr. Excitement
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I ran my Sport with the Termi 2-1 for about 3000 miles with the baffle in. At the time, I thought I was the only guy on the planet keeping it corked.

Well, I finally had the bike re-tuned w/ the baffle out. In my opinion the bike runs MUCH better now than baffle-in. It makes me want to rev it out harder. It's a bit louder this way, but it's just glorious in the way it sounds and runs! I'm never going back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I ran my Sport with the Termi 2-1 for about 3000 miles with the baffle in. At the time, I thought I was the only guy on the planet keeping it corked.

Well, I finally had the bike re-tuned w/ the baffle out. In my opinion the bike runs MUCH better now than baffle-in. It makes me want to rev it out harder. It's a bit louder this way, but it's just glorious in the way it sounds and runs! I'm never going back.
thanks for the info.
so i have to have the ecu tuned with it out?
& dose the ecu basically take the place of a dyno?

forgive me I'm a lil green lol
 

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A couple of taps with a sharp cold chisel will also work on the spot welds, they're that small.
 

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I used a Dremel with a cutting wheel. I took my time (which only took about a minute) and made sure that it was done very smoothly. You can't tell that there was ever a tack weld there now. Once you remove the weld you shouldn't have any problems removing the bolt. The baffle didn't want to come out too easily. I have a spring hook (pictured) for exhaust springs that I hooked onto the little removal bar and it came right out.
 

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Mr. Excitement
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so i have to have the ecu tuned with it out?
I would check with the service department. They could tell you more about the tuning. The pipe kit comes with a new airbox lid and ECU. They normally re-tune the bike when they install the pipe and the package airbox cover and ECU. There's a strong likelihood that they have already tuned it with the baffle out.
 

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I have the Termi 2-1 and am curious to hear the unbaffled note. This thread seems to indicate that a weld needs to be removed in addition to the bolt. On
my pipe the bolt screws into a nut tacked onto the outer flange of the baffle. When the bolt is removed I can pull the baffle flush with the end cap but then it is wedged. Is there really a weld to remove and if so where exactly is it and how does one refit the baffle if so desired (ensuring the baffle does part company with its parent) ?

This exhaust was fitted from new, should the dealer have tuned the ecu with the baffle fitted or not or should it not make a difference ?

What are your opinions of the joint welding particularly on the non coated systems, mine is terrible and wonder how they can get away with this poor
quality finishing on such a high price component ?
 

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I have the Termi 2-1 and am curious to hear the unbaffled note. This thread seems to indicate that a weld needs to be removed in addition to the bolt. On
my pipe the bolt screws into a nut tacked onto the outer flange of the baffle. When the bolt is removed I can pull the baffle flush with the end cap but then it is wedged. Is there really a weld to remove and if so where exactly is it and how does one refit the baffle if so desired (ensuring the baffle does part company with its parent) ?
You likely just have to pull a bit harder on it. Sometimes it is wedged in there pretty tight. If you have removed the allen screw then there should be nothing else holding it.


This exhaust was fitted from new, should the dealer have tuned the ecu with the baffle fitted or not or should it not make a difference ?
Go ahead and remove the baffle to make sure that it is what you want and then have them tune it. If you have it tuned with it removed and then decide to replace it, you should have it tuned again.

What are your opinions of the joint welding particularly on the non coated systems, mine is terrible and wonder how they can get away with this poor
quality finishing on such a high price component ?
You can always have it professionally polished. Phil at Pakbikes had his headers polished and used Scothbrite pads on the can and it looked fantastic.

He also did a set of Termi 2-2 that looked great. Here is a link to it. http://www.ducati.ms/forums/showthread.php?t=14925
 

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This thread seems to indicate that a weld needs to be removed in addition to the bolt.
There is a small tack weld holds the nut in place. It's a very small weld. You can hardly see it. Get a small metal file and cut through the weld.
 

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Thanks for the answers,

Its out ! But as I suspected that nut is welded to the baffle so I did not understand how removing it from the baffle aids removal of the baffle.
Anyway I removed no weld and just jiggled it in and out.

That link to polished OEMs is a gem, I would be interested to know whether the quality of the steel lends itself to a highly (professionally)
polished finish and how that stands up to real usage.
 

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Thanks for the answers,

Its out ! But as I suspected that nut is welded to the baffle so I did not understand how removing it from the baffle aids removal of the baffle.
Anyway I removed no weld and just jiggled it in and out.

That link to polished OEMs is a gem, I would be interested to know whether the quality of the steel lends itself to a highly (professionally)
polished finish and how that stands up to real usage.
It is easy if done proper… i know a company in Munich where they do a lot of polishing for the industry as well as for car restoration.

The polished finish is the best you can do with stainless steel as it melts the molecules on the surface and creates a perfect protection against environmental influences
 
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