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Discussion Starter #101
I don't have a convenient, repeatable way of quantifying the difference between them but, there is a noticeable one (old weaker as you found). I've got the new one in but, haven't gotten around to even starting it up. I am on vacation tomorrow and though the weather is alleged to be shite, I'm going to attempt to get a ride in.
 

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Discussion Starter #102
No ride yet - shite weather. Already had snow thrice now. Monday might be warm enough for a ride. Salt will start going down soon (possibly Tuesday) so that will be it for the year.

I did start it up (easily) and run it for a few minutes with my Surface connected to the PCIII. I'm guessing it was installed with its power coming from the fuel pump circuit because once the pump is primed, and de-energized, I can't see/get the map/table. With the engine running, no problem.

In the notes is says:

1998 Ducati ST2
FBF slip on, FBF air filter
FBF 11.1 pistons

It does not have the first two items and I don't know if the pistons are stock or not. I'll borrow a friend's borescope some time and have a look.
 

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pc3 takes its power from the injectors, which are powered by the same relayed circuit as the pump and coils. otherwise you can plug a 9v battery into them via a lead you get in the box.
 

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Discussion Starter #104
Rear suspension pushrod appeared to have a worn out rod end (suspension rocker end) so I took the lot apart. Turns out the bolt was loose. The left handed rod end's threads, on the other hand, were tight as fack. Took that completely apart, cleaned, chased threads, lubed, reassembled. Removed, cleaned, lubed the rocker itself. Cleaned and inspected the damper. Reinstalled the lot (with all the bolts in their correct locations). Damper will come back out over the winter for a refresh of oil and recharge.
 

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Discussion Starter #105
A while back I was checking for loose fasteners and one of the pannier bottom 'anchors' broke with just a hint of torque. I took the bracket to work and milled the broken bit out and managed to save the bracket's threads.

I got online to track down the silly special hardware only to find that they're not available on their own. You buy the whole bracket or nothing. At least, according to Duc's parts documents.

So, back to work the next day to modify what was left of the anchor bolt. I parted off remaining threads, through drilled the body to accept a 6 mm flathead bolt, and then finished it off by countersinking the body for said bolt. Functionally, and nearly cosmetically, identical to the (apparently unobtainable) original item and easily replaceable should the screw need it.

I'm going to do the other three next week. I've already stripped and repainted one bracket and the second one is stripped. Another small project will be complete.
 

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Discussion Starter #107
FINALLY! got to ride this here machine post-crank position sensor-replacement. And, ....... the problem persists. DIdn't make it a full five miles and this time the engine stalled. Cycled the ignition and it fired immediately. But, now I'm less than confident in leaving the neighborhood to do further tests. Of course, that would require finding something else amiss first.

:think:
 

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Discussion Starter #109
Engine starts/run well. In the beginning, showed no trouble. Then on a short ride, the engine died momentarily once. Odd. Didn't do it again for a few rides/days. Then again, once. Then a handful of time within a minute [wife's first ride to see what she thinks of the machine :rolleyes:].

I posted about it here for some pointers/experiences and CPS was thought to be the (most common) culprit. I set about checking connections, for shorts, wiggled the sensor's (now-stiff) lead, cleaned connections. Same.

Removed the sensor to attempt some bench testing (which found nothing concrete). I did find a homemade shim on it. Finding nothing else, I reinstalled without the shim and rode. Same.

Ordered new sensor and installed just in time for the weather to turn to shite. Started/ran (up to temp and for another 10 minutes beyond) fine in the garage. I got one ride around the block, freezing my finger. Nothing.

Fast forward to the other day and the first real ride. Back to cutting out. But, this time, it didn't refire on its own while coasting as every time before. That could be just from the low speed I was at in this particular instance (20 or so). I turned off the power and back on again and it fired without hesitation.

I just found a nice full-color wiring diagram and will start reviewing it this evening over a drink or two to see what all gets power from where/when.

I did find last night that the ECU is marked '916 Biposto EU' and the eprom is labeled 'St2 USA --067U--'.
 

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does it lose all power or just engine no go?

there are some relays that power the general ecu or the pump/inj/coils relay. can you rig up a little globe that goes into them power in or out wise to see if one drops out. i'm always suss of relays. or make a jumper wire to replace the relay and go for a ride.
 

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Discussion Starter #111
Engine and tach die for an instant (except for the most recent occasion). Lights/dash lights stay on.

I'd already gone through most of the electrical connection when I got it. Battery, starter/solenoid, fuses, relays. I originally overlooked the relays and fuses under the seat until the other day.

The thing I keep thinking about is the loss of signal/power to the tach. That's where the CPS theory came from. Bad sensor = no tach signal and no engine.
 

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SP3, I am following your posts with interest and entertainment..... well written.
I have had an issue in the past that drove me crazy with similar symptoms to your bike.
I will continue to view your posts and journey. I have an opinion on your issue and predict you will fix it by the following.

Install a cable from your ecu to ground and not rely on the wiring harness to achieve a good ground.

I could be wrong however try it and let me know how you go....

Good luck.
 

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a 16m shouldn't need an external ground, but it mightn't hurt at this point.

tacho dropping is indicative of rotation sensor or ecu power. you need to find out which is faulty when it won't restart. removing relays and jumping power in and out is the best way to rule them out, i certainly see lots that click, but don't transmit power. had an mv today that the pump relay seemed to do nothing with the load (fuel pump) connected, but showed power at the connector with the pump disconnected. i removed and refitted the relay, and it was fine. bit of an unsatisfying solution to me, but i rode it and it didn't stop.

i like to use a test light to see where the power stops. if there is none then i'd be suss of the rotation sensor. nothing happens when cranking until it lets the ecu know the engine is turning. if there's no pump at key on then it's a relay, ecu power or pump wiring issue. pump running at key on means lots of stuff is ok. in that instance i'd first suspect rotation sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter #114
SP3, I am following your posts with interest and entertainment..... well written.
I have had an issue in the past that drove me crazy with similar symptoms to your bike.
I will continue to view your posts and journey. I have an opinion on your issue and predict you will fix it by the following.

Install a cable from your ecu to ground and not rely on the wiring harness to achieve a good ground.

I could be wrong however try it and let me know how you go....

Good luck.
Haven't spent a lot time on it (or any 'fun/toy') projects lately. Hopefully, this week will see a little free time for it.



a 16m shouldn't need an external ground, but it mightn't hurt at this point.

tacho dropping is indicative of rotation sensor or ecu power. you need to find out which is faulty when it won't restart. removing relays and jumping power in and out is the best way to rule them out, i certainly see lots that click, but don't transmit power. had an mv today that the pump relay seemed to do nothing with the load (fuel pump) connected, but showed power at the connector with the pump disconnected. i removed and refitted the relay, and it was fine. bit of an unsatisfying solution to me, but i rode it and it didn't stop.

i like to use a test light to see where the power stops. if there is none then i'd be suss of the rotation sensor. nothing happens when cranking until it lets the ecu know the engine is turning. if there's no pump at key on then it's a relay, ecu power or pump wiring issue. pump running at key on means lots of stuff is ok. in that instance i'd first suspect rotation sensor.
The CPS was replaced and, if anything, the issue has gotten worse. I'm guessing a relay. The difficulty lies in that until the very last episode, I was going fast enough that power would return and I'd keep on going. The last time was the first where I was 'stranded' (a whopping 100 yards from the house).

Since my last post, I dove further into the wiring and removed the tank and airbox. Since I was that far, I gutted the tank and got new fuel line (internal and external), filter, clamps, and have it 90% assembled to put the tank back together. Checking continuity of everything I can touch. Still searching for the correct wiring diagram. The one I found that allegedly for the '98, has more than a few things that don't match up to real life.
 

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Discussion Starter #115
OK. Injectors back from being serviced (because, if I'm this deep into this thing, I may as well. short money). Everything cleaned, new fuel filter, all hoses inside and out, all new clamps, nicely routed, Before I reassemble it all and pressure/leak test, has anyone found a potting compound for the pump/sender wiring bulkhead that A) works and B) isn't ridiculously priced? Another 'may as well, while I'm here' item. The original material is essentially intact but, I've read enough instances of corroded/broken wires in the bulkhead fitting that I'd rather make sure now so I can leave this thing together 'forever'. Going back together tomorrow evening or Friday afternoon at the latest.
 

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Discussion Starter #116
Finally (finally) got it back to a point where I could start going for test rides. Ride 1 this afternoon was only around town. Somewhere near 3-mile radius (just in case....). 20 miles total. Nothing bad to report, thankfully. All kinds of speeds/loads/revs.

My hat's off to you guys that have taken these bikes and made them naked and somehow hidden all the shite hanging about. Ugly, ugly machine when naked. But, it really does sound good without the airbox. Whacking the throttle full open from 6k is bliss.

I hope to get another ride in tomorrow after work to further test things and gain enough trust to put it back together proper and ride it daily. I'd like to ride to work as often as possible this year.
 

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Discussion Starter #117
and, the only thing I found that was 'funky' in all this was the splice for the Power Commander's power/throttle position signal was kind of nasty. Re-spliced (and lengthened and covered in heat shrink tubing) that so I could re-route everything else and move the PC box to a better location.
 

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Discussion Starter #119
So, as my last (very short) post might have suggested, the ride yesterday didn't end well. Another 30 miles in and I'm very close to home. But, I decide to make one more lap through downtown. I'm coming to a red light, pull the clutch, engine dies. I coast to the curb and try to restart. Shit, I was really hoping this was behind me.

This time, everything is working, including the tach. But, no start. I only put in about 3 gallons of fuel total but, I couldn't have gone through it all. I check anyway and I can see plenty of fuel. I pushed it toward home about 10 blocks before the friend I texted met me and trailered it the remaining 10.
We stopped to pick up some beer, unloaded it, and bs'd over a few. Later, I took a shower and had a few more beers before I went to bed.

This morning I get hoping that it still won't start so that I can go through a number of things. Luckily, it did not. So, fuel pump. I can hear it when I turn the key and hit the switch. Next, spark - plenty. 25k volts and nice and blue. Next was checking injectors with Power Commander still in line. The airbox is still off so I can see clearly down the intakes. Crank it over (plug wires grounded) - the tiniest little completely un-atomized trickle you'd never want to see. AH F'ING HA! Damned PC unit's given up. This will be easy. Go back to the original injection connections and re-test. Same f'ing result. Hardly any fuel coming out. Hmmm. Pull off the external hose from the pump to the injectors and fuel just runs out. You friggin' dumbass!

Drained the tank and pulled the pump assembly out. In my over-the-top rebuilding of the tank internals, I forgot one extremely important thing. I didn't tether the hose on the pump outlet with safety wire as I had planned from the outset. Said hose, with its nice new clamp, was dangling free. And, to add insult the new (allegedly Viton) O-ring had already swollen to a size no human could finagle back into place. So, dig out the drill, a bit, .020" safety wire, and pliers and made things happen. Reassembled is all (with the original Ducati O-ring) and went for another ride (staying closer to home). 15 more miles without problems.

I'm done riding/wrenching for the day. My tennis elbow is killing me and so are my feet. Both from pushing the machine yesterday. Another ride tomorrow if the weather cooperates after work.

On a brighter note, I have found that, after the winter with shoe-stretchers in them, the TCX Sport Tour EVO Air I bought form another forum member, fit great. Good flexibility for shifting and braking. Pleased as punch with that part of the day. They're just not the thing for pushing a motorcycle around town.
 

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Discussion Starter #120
another two rides over the last two days. something like another 35 miles without issue. last night, I even got brave enough to reinstall the airbox (after a couple hours of routing wiring/plumbing and then disliking something and redoing it all again. and again. and again). Still not convinced I have the problem licked. The only thing I found (and made a definite change to) was the shite splice/solder joint mentioned previously. I was going to ride to work in the AM but, it's supposed to rain then and I prefer not to press my luck. Long weekend coming and the weather's supposed to be fairly good so a bunch more test rides before the fairing goes back on.
 
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