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>>> My ride home (roughly 50 miles) was problem-free also though I'm not sure I ever got over 4k rpm and 1/3 throttle.
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That is THE issue with the mirrors shaking. You really should be riding with the engine up over 4000rpm. And it may seem weird, but in the higher gears, you need to be at even higher RPMs, or shaking will be prevalent. You can also break the rubber mounts for the gauge cluster. So if you see the gauges shaking, DOWNSHIFT!
 

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Test posting.... Test One Two
 

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Test number 2
 

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>>> My ride home (roughly 50 miles) was problem-free also though I'm not sure I ever got over 4k rpm and 1/3 throttle.
<<<

That is THE issue with the mirrors shaking. You really should be riding with the engine up over 4000rpm. And it may seem weird, but in the higher gears, you need to be at even higher RPMs, or shaking will be prevalent. You can also break the rubber mounts for the gauge cluster. So if you see the gauges shaking, DOWNSHIFT!
IDK, at light throttle, mine's okay at ~3400 rpm. True if one accelerates even a little bit quickly, the result is about 6.5 on the Richter scale. However, it's much happier cruising at 3800 to 4500 and IMO get better gas mileage there too.

Since I prefer 2 lane state highways @ 60 mph to anything faster, I'm going to go up one tooth on the countershaft sprocket; it should also make city riding a bit easier with less clutch feathering.
 

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I think you mean going one tooth less in the front sprocket (15T = OEM). So you probably want to try a 14T sprocket. I think you may like it.
 

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Discussion Starter #87
Already has a 14/44 combo that has it turning 4500 rpm at about 65 mph. No wonder it goes through a tank so quick. I have a 42 lying around somewhere that'll be given a go next spring.
 

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If ya don't like that, try 15/42. Personally I think a smaller front sprocket puts unnecessary stress on the shaft and sprocket.

Paul 03 ST4s, 15 675RX, 96 ZX11, 76 KZ900LTD B-1, 72 SL125
 

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15/42 was stock for the ST2. I went up one in the rear for 15/43 and found it a small but noticeable improvement for riding twisty mountain roads. The stock 102 link chain puts the axle pretty close to the fore limit, though.
 

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Discussion Starter #90
crank sensor arrived today. new drain plug, yesterday. crappy weather so, I want to the get plug swapped in the mean time. patiently waiting.........
 

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Discussion Starter #91
Epoxy didn't work. Not the epoxy's fault. It held to somewhere near 60 lb/ft, I'd guess. Tight as F#(k! Heracles, once more.

So, a bit of violence was required.
 

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Discussion Starter #92
All better and another 50 mile ride in. Nice and dry.

Still no repeat of the engine/tach drop-out. I'll keep trying until I'm out of riding days this year (likely not many). Then, the new crank sensor will go in at the current one's depth for next spring.
 

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Epoxy didn't work. Not the epoxy's fault. It held to somewhere near 60 lb/ft, I'd guess. Tight as F#(k! Heracles, once more.

So, a bit of violence was required.
What is with the schmatz on the magnet on pic #3. I have never had a drain plug come out with that much crap on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #94
What is with the schmatz on the magnet on pic #3. I have never had a drain plug come out with that much crap on it.
I'm not worried about it at this point. My Monster (which I bought with <1500 miles on it) looked similar after its second (first for me) change and has had 'nothing' on it since. The SP3 (365 miles when I received it) was similar.

Further, earlier in this thread, I mentioned the bodged plug hex, the amount of 'glitter' in the oil that I had to drain from the strainer hole, and that I have no way of knowing how long it's been since it was last removed/cleaned.

I checked the strainer and there was nothing. I then opened the filter and examined the media, pleat by pleat. As clean as you like. From this, I would guess the plug's been in there for half, or more, of the 19k miles on the bike.

There's newly-cleaned strainer, new filter, new plug with neodymium magnet, and new oil in it now. When I hit 1500 miles, I'll perform another inspection with filter dissection. Judging by the (lack of worrisome) sounds it makes, I expect to find nothing. We'll see.

Weather looks somewhat promising for another ride today.
 

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Discussion Starter #95
I'm a more than a bit embarrassed to say that the ST now has ...
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chain slack. :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter #97
I am getting miles in, for sure. Another 50+ today.

But, I somehow neglected to look at the chain until today other than a bit of lube when I first picked it up. It popped in my head that I had not and gave it a little wiggle and it was like a friggin' banjo string. Not only did Heracles like to overtighten hardware all over the bike, he apparently likes 'overtightened' chains, too. ZERO slack.

So, that's been remedied. I'm going to attempt to get up early enough to ride to work in the AM while the weather's nice enough. The engine runs really smooth but, I wonder if any 'snatchiness' was masked by having so chain slack. I'll find out in the AM, hopefully.
 

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My ST3 is always a bit rough going down our long gravel drive at 2500rpm in 1st gear. I'm told it should be smooth but I don't care because she goes so well once on the tar apart from running in bumper to bumper heavy traffic. I do so little of that kind of riding that I am happy to ignore it. If I were a city courier rider I wouldn't be on the ST3 anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #99
One blip on the way to work. Didn't notice if the tach died at the same time (assuming yes). Three separates ones on the way home spaced so that, again, I didn't notice the tack.

Supposed to rain tomorrow so, off to the garage to swap sensors, ready for the next testing opportunity.

Bright note is no real snatchiness with the chain properly slackened.
 

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One blip on the way to work. Didn't notice if the tach died at the same time (assuming yes). Three separates ones on the way home spaced so that, again, I didn't notice the tack.

Supposed to rain tomorrow so, off to the garage to swap sensors, ready for the next testing opportunity.
While you have both sensors out, try individually sticking each one to a clean piece of flat steel, the see how hard it is to pull off. On mine, the old magnet wasn't 'dead', but it was noticeably weaker than that of the new one.

My failures became heat-related. The magnet is buried mostly within insulating plastic, so it takes a while to warm up from the oil bath and the oil warms much slower than the water. Comically (at least from the perspective of having fixed the problem). The bike over some period would run 100 miles per day before it quit, no matter if it was 50/50 or 80/20 or 30/40/30. It got worse of course. After a bad episode, I waited until the next day since it always started after an hour or two cool down. Started fine. Pulled the sensor and fairly gently heated it until it was heat-soaked to ~180F. Re-installed. Wouldn't start.
 
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