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Discussion Starter #41
Haven't checked the engine mount bolts but that is the next item up now that I've found the front brake switch connectors.

Quick search on the AlGorenet finds the exact switch (with leads, screws, bobbin) on Gotham's ebay page for $26 (free shipping). Not quite satisfied, another search finds the same part for $20 (free shipping)...... on Gotham's web page. So, $20 it is. Hopefully, they get it on its way quickly (although tomorrow's a holiday).

Before I committed to buying the bike, I asked for photos of the engine mounts. They looked perfect so I made the offer and second trip. Looked them over myself (and other things) and did the deal.

Engine mount torque next. Reroute/anchor some of the wiring/plumbing. Then oil/filter. Title and registration Tuesday. Insurance immediately after. Body back on once it's fully legal and I've looked things over - more.
 

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Wow, expensive!

Though it's a good reminder, after 20 years it might be a good idea to do so.

Darn, another item for my to-do list. :frown2:
The old rubber lines contributed to a pretty mushy feel at the levers that I wanted to be rid of, plus I wanted to improve the wimpy rear brake as best I could. Came to about $250 for all.

Not a ton of replacement options, either. Of course Ducati wants $250 for just the rear line only. :surprise:
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Because it's new to me and it was raining/wet most of the way home, I didn't use the brakes hard enough to find the braking feel wanting. Down the road, if I do find either they need replacing or disliking the feel, I probably have enough materials left from my racing days to make all new lines. I'd make them from -2 hose.

~ Checked engine mount hardware - good to go.
~ Checked belts - newish looking Bucci's (can still read all the print). Tensioner and idler bearings spin perfectly. But, good God, the cover screws don't require Heracles to tighten or Zeus to loosen them. Spun a thread insert out of one of the back covers that I'll have to remedy.
~ Battery tray hang at an angle not because it was broken but because the bottom mount's top hat bushing was in backward. No support.
~ Cleaned some starter circuit connections.
~ Bought a can of engine degreaser for good once-over cleaning of any gunk and one of Chevron Techron fuel system cleaner. First two tankfuls will get a half bottle each.
 

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Not quite a fender eliminator kit, but I have a post in the H.O.W. area, with photos, on relocating the OEM rear signal lights to clean up the rear "antler" look (if/when you run without the luggage bags).
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Thanks, Stick. Some light reading for this evening.


~ engine degreased (though no spit shined), rinsed, blow dried.
~ finished making all the connections at the battery and starting circuit all nicey-nice.
~ fired it up with nice clean electrical contact points, 14.1 volts at just over 2500 rpm, 13ish at idle.
~ let it run until fully hot. fan on at 223F indicated, off around 217F indicated. shut off and let heat soak for about 5 minutes.
~ disconnected water temp sensors and measured each. 290 Ohms/286 Ohms vertical/horizontal. I'll let it sit and get a cold reading for giggles.
~ off to do oil/filter.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
First real irritants of this project

~ Sump plug hex completely stripped. Not to worry. I have one from the M750 I've been parting out. Except I sold it a month ago. To the day. F me. So, drained it from the strainer while tipping it over to get 'all' the old out.
~ Strainer as clean as you'd ever see.
~ Drained oil has a bit more sparkle than I'd like. But, with the stripped plug, how long has it been building up? Previous owners almost certainly didn't go to my extremes to get every last drop of oil out. Is is one oil change worth or 10? I'll cut open the (K&N) filter (Heracles had his mits on that, too) and see what it's gobbled up.
~ While checking the filter gasket surface and wiping it clean, I find no oil bypass spring under the filter nipple. Fear not, I have one of those as well! EXCEPT.....

So, no point installing the new filter and I haven't decided if I should bother with the sump plug. I'll let it drain overnight while I ponder the next moves over another few more bourbons.
 

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Damn there's some butchers about eh? How would that spring be gone? Has it gone inside? You might get the sump plug out by hammering the next size up into it, otherwise it's a coal chisel and hammer job.
Nobody has answered on the fairing numbers question. I must admit I wasn't looking for them any time I've taken them off my ST3 .
Didn't notice any.
I had to repair one and used a two part stuff called Plastic Welder by Permatex. It failed twice but the third time I built it up underneath and it's been good for the last 6 months. It had to be painted where I actually molded a small section that was missing.
I don't know about the way yours mounts .The ST3 apparently isn't much different and I find it's fairly quick to take off if done in the right order, basically top down starting with the screen.
Coming from various Guzzis I find the ST3 is the best bike I've ever owned. Such a difference in handling power and comfort.
 

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Long story short, friend has one for sale. She was awarded it as part of court cases against a couple pos thieves.
What? POS crooks aren't fastidious ace top-notch mechanics? I'm shocked, just shocked! :surprise: :grin2:

Often the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance comes out closer to Raiders of the Lost Ark archaeology.
 

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Discussion Starter #50
dewcatty;6933035How would that spring be gone? Has it gone inside? You might get the sump plug out by hammering the next size up into it said:
I'm going with an overtightened filter was removed and brought the nipple with it. Spring gets missed in the drain pan. No, can't 'go inside'.



https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/H7sAAOSwIrVbOYI-/s-l1600.jpg

I had to do a bit of reading to learn myself. I've never given the spring any thought in the past since I never had one missing/come out. Only needed with an oil cooler. It may have never been installed although the parts books show it (without an oil cooler). Going to move ahead with filter and oil.

Drain plug can wait until next oil change (one ordered). Hammer and chisel or, if I put in on my lift, I'll drill the head off.

I'm bitching about the bodywork because A) I'm used to my Monster (none) and B) I'm used to my SP3 which is far simpler. As I don't plan on removing it again for some time, it really doesn't matter.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
What? POS crooks aren't fastidious ace top-notch mechanics? I'm shocked, just shocked! :surprise: :grin2:

Often the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance comes out closer to Raiders of the Lost Ark archaeology.

Not sure how long the crooks had the bike. Could blame them for all the stuff I find wrong. Or, maybe none of it. Overall, it's been taken care fairly well. It is 20 years old and no telling how many owners.

I like your "Raiders" comment. Got a giggle out of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
~ Checked water temp sensors. Although they match, it seems that they are out of range. The other day, at hot/running temp, they matched with a few Ohms but read higher (290ish) than the Bosch chart says they should (160ish). And, at room temp, just now, they both read open/overload when they should show around 2k Ohms. Off to NAPA tomorrow for a pair of theirs, I guess.

Some light evening reading for you all.

http://www.bosch-motorsport.com/media/catalog_resources/Temperature_Sensor_NTC_M12_Datasheet_51_en_2782569739pdf.pdf
 

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Discussion Starter #53
One last task before I'm done for the day. Cut open filter (K&N for those interested). Media as clean as can be. For as dirty as the oil was and with what came out of the sump it's essentially spotless with nothing in the bottom of the can, either. Not what I was expecting but, pleasing none the less.
 

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So you've got yerself a goodun. Congrats. Just take care when you go and ride it. No doubt you will being an exracer.
It's nice to see a bike being brought back into a loving home. Onyer mate.
 

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>>>
~ While checking the filter gasket surface and wiping it clean, I find no oil bypass spring under the filter nipple. Fear not, I have one of those as well! <<<
I believe the oil filter bypass (spring) is integral to the filter. It's designed so if/when the filter is clogged, the element comes off its seat and allows oil to bypass the element.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
I believe the oil filter bypass (spring) is integral to the filter. It's designed so if/when the filter is clogged, the element comes off its seat and allows oil to bypass the element.
There's a spring in the filter for that, yes. There's also the pressure relief valve in the oil pump. This spring is to bypass the cooler when the oil is cold. Oil flows through the filter regardless. No cooler, no spring needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Oil/filter job now complete, leak-checked, level set (was waiting on crush washers to arrived from McM). So, now patiently waiting for my brake switch (or a simple acknowledgement that it's been shipped) and word on availability of water temp sensors.

Got a response about wrapping the panels. As I expected, way too much ($1100 total) to have someone else do it. That's for next year anyway.

Now to clean/polish/wax panels as they are and reinstall.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
Could you explain what is meant by 'wrapping' the panels? Thanks.
coloured vinyl sheet wrapped over the body work. fast way of 'fixing' your paint or changing color.
 

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Discussion Starter #60
Title, registered, insured.

Still waiting on the f'ing brake switch.

Off to try and repair the front fender and some other 'epoxy' jobs.
 
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