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Sheldon........ which side of the engine does it sound like it comes from. (Strange as it sounds, the sound-itself does not sound metalic..... actually shounds like a belt is riding against something).

With that being said, does it sound like the noise is coming from behind the timing belt covers?

(Another thing you can always do is get a short piece of garden hose, or hose of any kind about 3/4" in diameter and use it like a stethescope (sp?).
 

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actually shounds like a belt is riding against something).
Agree with Kaamacat it looks like a belt sound :confused:
Used driving belt maybe ??
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Maybe sorta...

Thanks guys;

I have not done the stethoscope thing yet, the sound does seem to come from the area of the belts, but has survived a belt change!

I thought for a while that it was a belt pulley vibrating, but I felt them each carefully with the belt off, and put a drop of lube in each one and no change.

I'm stumped and looking for more good ideas.

Keep them coming, please.

Thanks

Sheldon
 

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try pulling the covers and starting her up. that should allow you to isolate/rule out the whine coming from the belts/pulleys.

my ds always has a distant whine... i just figured it was a ducati thing:)
 

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Piston rings on cylinder walls? Mine kinda whirs.....where yours whines....but mine still is whirry on start-up. After oil circulates good it kinda mellows. Then the sound is constant. Hope you get an answer.:)
 

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Question. Any difference, at all, when the clutch is pulled?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
so how serious?

It seems that the answers suggest this is not a problem. I think the bearing in thepush rod can be ruled out because i have recently put in a new slave clinder and that has no effeect on the sound (I think the bearing is in the slave, no?). The sound doesnt change when the engine is warm (so probably nixxes the oil/rings suggestion). Its not rubbbing on the clutch cover (open CF cover with no rub marks) and I have not run the engine with the clutch out (can one do that?).

Still looking.
 

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FEED the SQUIRRELLS!

Are you running Khein FCR41's The sound is kinda like the accellerator pump squirting gas into the bodies? If you've eliminated the belts, (and the oil level question, and the clutch) I'd take it for an easy ride around the block really examine the bike post ride,, If something is rubbing you will have some more info.:eek:
 

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Overfilled with oil, and the oil breather is wheezing. That's what mine sounded like at least. Take off the oil breather and clean it up.
 

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The whine is a gear or a bearing.The primary gears can make a whirring and may change pitch when warm.Timing belts adjusted too tight will also make noise.If left too tight too long they can damage the bearings the jackshaft and cam bearings.Pull the covers and investigate.
 

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maybe she just wants to be a gear driven cam vfr <*blasphemy*> ?
Indeed.....plenty of Ducati gear driven cams to aspire to from the Bevel drive era.

Have you had a good listen to the LHS cover? You've got a bearing there amoungst other things that could whine.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
HOW to get this thing off?

The crankcase breather valve. How does it come off?

Also, is there any advantage to the aftermarket ones but for the obvious bling?

Thanks

Sheldon
 

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See those little holes in the base of the breather body? Thats where the pin spanner fits to unscrew it.Gripping the top of it will usually just spin the upper body of the breather and loosen the crimp leading to an oil leak.The aftermarket ones are mostly bling but they can be easier to install.
 

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belt misalignment - 2valver

Hi Sheldon
I realise I am posting a year late - if you pick this up it would be good to know if you sorted out where it came from - the reason I am posting now, is that I am part-way through searching this excellent 'mine-of-information' Forum in the hope of finding someone experiencing a similar 'incident' to me, and yours is the closest so far. If the noise is caused by what I think it is then CHECK YOUR BELT RUN NOW! To explain:- Recently started running a lovely 750 Elefant, checked belts and tension which were fine - belts almost new, idlers all free. The belt 'whirr' was slightly louder than usual so I checked again without finding anything so put it down to the 'newness' of the belts. About 600 miles later, I threw a front belt, luckily with little damage. On inspection of belt, it had 'walked' over to one side of the pulley sprocket, and then started to abrade the side of the belt. The next thing that happened was that it part-rode up over the (lower height) flange and continued to provide drive in this position for sometime (if only I had checked it then) before finally giving up. I have carefully examined idler/tensioner bearings again (and will change as a matter of course) and looked to see if adjustable arm is running out of true - both are fine, so mystified at the moment, but thought I would pass this on. (wouldn't be surprised if there is a similar account on here, I just haven't found it yet!):)
 

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sound . . .

Sheldon,
the clutch pushrod bearing is not in the slave cylinder. it is on the clutch side, not the slave side.
the clutch out refers to the clutch being engaged, as it letting the clutch out. pulling the clutch in, disengages the clutch, like in neutral, no forward motion.

Fred
 

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It seems that the answers suggest this is not a problem. I think the bearing in thepush rod can be ruled out because i have recently put in a new slave clinder and that has no effeect on the sound (I think the bearing is in the slave, no?). The sound doesnt change when the engine is warm (so probably nixxes the oil/rings suggestion). Its not rubbbing on the clutch cover (open CF cover with no rub marks) and I have not run the engine with the clutch out (can one do that?).

Still looking.
Bearing is in the pressure plate, not in the slave. Also did you put a dab of grease on the end of the push rod when you installed the rod?
 

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Kriis,Inspect the jackshaft pulleys for security and also check the shaft for excessive end play.It shouldn't have more than about .1 mm to .2mm. I've seen a few with bad bearings that let the shaft walk back and forth and eventually toss the belts.The bad part is the cases need to be split to replace them.
 
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