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Discussion Starter #1
On my way to the DGR my bike started losing power and shut off on me. I managed to coast/ push it to where we were meeting (thanks to Josh for helping)...

On close inspection, we noticed a lot of noise coming from the relays that sped up as the ignition was on. See linked videos.

Do you guys think this is just a relay issue or something deeper?

FWIW, I recently had to replace the rear tail light because the hole at the top of the light (due to the fender eliminator) let water in and it fried it.

Turning the ignition on https://youtu.be/WqaATdcvjwg

Faster clicking https://youtu.be/c4y-KNKJMi4
 

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Have you inspected the R/R and the wires going into it? If the brown/toasty it is likely you've lost the R/R- providing you have not already upgraded to a MOSFET unit.
 

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Speedo and tach should both do a full sweep with the needle first. Low battery? Bad RR? Bad connection(s)?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
RR was my first thought. I didnt upgrade to MOSFET, not sure if the previous owner did, but its unlikely. Wires all look ok going into it though. Not ruling it out.

Battery is newer but is dead. I am suspecting the alternator actually. Makes sense for how long I was riding before it happened, that it could have been when the battery was out of juice. I have it on the tender now to check.

Also, I talked to my cousin who has the same bike and his alternator went bad last year and acted similarly. He replaced and was good to go.
 

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I've had this happen...

coincidentally, right after I upgraded my tail light.

click click click click click click... then the bike doesnt start.... then your battery is dead.

While I didnt isolate the problem to one point in the entire circuit - I did fix the issue WITHOUT changing the alternator. Alternators tend to be quite robust.

What I deduced was:

A) I had a tiny bit of copper wire exposed where I married my new tail light to the OEM wiring. I had initially rigged up some connectors(bad idea)... I figured that after some riding, this tiny bit of exposed copper wire started to connect with other sensitive parts. Bluntly, my system was shorting out.

B) From here, it would seem from trying to isolate the problem (turning on, turning off, listening, smelling) that my regulator began to fry...and that by taking my time in investigating(we're talking 10 minutes) - the tail light short and the regulator going bad drained my battery. Extremely fast drain on the battery. dead. it doesnt take much at all. and mind you, my regulator wires look fine.

SO, i bought some robust connectors and sealed them up nice nice... I bought a new regulator... and Ive never heard those relays since... bike is 100%.

check your taillight work...and lift a mosfet R/R from JCpak, etc....
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I bought an OEM taillight assembly so I am 99% sure its good since it was plug and play.

I suspected my cousin was saying alternator but meaning the RR. He kept saying it was a common problem and when I asked if he meant the RR he said no.... so I sent him a photo and I was right. He replaced the RR.
 
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How old is the battery?
Check all connections
at the Battery terminal
at the two regulator connector
If loose take it of clean it and apply dielectric grease and reconnect
If any looks toasted then you need to replace the connectors.
I have the connector replacement kit for the bike side if needed.

next step
Charge the battery overnight
If it holds a charge and starts that may have been oit
Also check with meter for charging

Loosen the two screw holding the R/R and inspect teh R/R
If the wires are black or dark brown or turn it over and if the Black epoxy underneath is cracked or bubbling the R/R may be done

I bought an OEM taillight assembly so I am 99% sure its good since it was plug and play.

I suspected my cousin was saying alternator but meaning the RR. He kept saying it was a common problem and when I asked if he meant the RR he said no.... so I sent him a photo and I was right. He replaced the RR.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
RR actually doesn't look too bad. Some mild discoloration there, but I feel like it would be worse... Maybe I'm wrong.

Battery is less than 2 months old. I had it on the tender overnight, when I checked it today the red light on the tender was blinking, so either low voltage or bad connection. Need to check the connections and test the battery. Could a bad RR prevent the battery from charging?

Or maybe I got a bad battery...

I turned the key on just to see and there was zero power.
 

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...Could a bad RR prevent the battery from charging? Or maybe I got a bad battery...
That's what a R/R does....so yes. And if it fries it can take out a perfectly good battery as well. Search the R/R threads here and you will find instructions for checking the alternator AC voltage output to the R/R and the DC voltage output to the battery after the R/R with a volt meter. When you know these values you'll know what's causing the problem.
 
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Are the connection to the battery for the battery tender tight?

Is this is an after Market battery?

RR actually doesn't look too bad. Some mild discoloration there, but I feel like it would be worse... Maybe I'm wrong.

Battery is less than 2 months old. I had it on the tender overnight, when I checked it today the red light on the tender was blinking, so either low voltage or bad connection. Need to check the connections and test the battery. Could a bad RR prevent the battery from charging?

Or maybe I got a bad battery...

I turned the key on just to see and there was zero power.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yes. I have the tender wires connected directly to the battery with the eyelet connectors the tender came with.

Battery is the same as stock. Yuasa MF YT12B-BS. I took it off the bike and tried the tender that way... Still a red flashing light.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hooked up the old battery since it seemed to take a charge. Got a gauge sweep like all was normal, but just a click when I hit the ignition.

Multimeter shows the battery is charged (12.57 volts), but the one I have isn't sophisticated enough to track the max and min voltage when starting up. May be moot since the bike won't start anyway.
 

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I think its your R/R...

reconcile the purchase of a mosfet as a general good SC upgrade. if you didnt need it, and its something else - at the very least, you've got a solid RR and you now know that the RR -isnt- the problem!
 

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Hooked up the old battery since it seemed to take a charge. Got a gauge sweep like all was normal, but just a click when I hit the ignition...Multimeter shows the battery is charged (12.57 volts)...
If you have a known good battery installed (NOT just with 12+ volts idle voltage but load tested so you KNOW it's good) and it won't turn the engine over the problem is not just the R/R but something in the starting circuit. What voltage is present at the starter when you push the starter button?
 
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