[GeryD]

I just fried my R/R and am going to replace the wires running from the stator to the R/R. My question is, how do you get the stator out of the housing? I removed the two outer fasteners and the darn thing won't come out. What's the trick?

 

[amullo]

What part are you talking about?

This one?

//amullo

 

[GeryD]

This is the part I'm trying to remove. There are two fasteners on the top but, the thing won't budge after they've been removed

 

[Buckelew]

an important thing is the type of wire you're going to use - needs to be large diameter and a silicone insulation would probably be best. I'll see if I can find out what the local shop, Nichols, uses.

Or you can call them at (408)945-0911 - ask for Jim or Josh.

 

[Synergy]

an important thing is the type of wire you're going to use - needs to be large diameter and a silicone insulation would probably be best. I'll see if I can find out what the local shop, Nichols, uses.

Or you can call them at (408)945-0911 - ask for Jim or Josh.

The best type of wire to use is Crosslink type SXL wire, this wire you just cant buy at your local auto-parts shop or electronics dealer. Something Ducati should have used in the original harness. It was the only wire I would use when I built fire engines. It is what I have used to replace the wires on my 98' 748. I also used GM WeatherPak connections to build the new harness. I recommend using a high temp loom to wrap the wire in after you build a new harness. You can use high temp flex/split loom (black ribbed plastic with a white stripe is high temp) or Thermo-Tec (they make muffler wrap) has a thermal protectant for wires. If you want to get technical you can calculate the amps for the wire then crossreference with info on the net to engineer the exact AWG wire. I have run 14g SXL (12 wont hurt, just a lot thicker and less flexible) with no problems after about 1000 miles. I have the wire harness wrapped in high-temp flex loom.

wire
http://www.delcity.net/delcity/servlet/catalog?parentid=353&page=1
loom
http://www.delcity.net/delcity/servlet/catalog?parentid=282&page=1
weatherpak
http://www.electerm.com/packard.html

 

[GeryD]

Thanks for the info on the wire etc. but, my issue is getting the stator out of the housing. How do you pull the thing out without wrecking it?

 

[Ducboy]

I can't tell from your picture all that's going on there but as I recall, when I replaced mine due to a short two years ago, I just had to weasle it outta there. I don't remember any tabs, just that the tolerance is very tight and it had to be pulled out just right.

Sorry not more help, but I guess the take home is that I don't remember there being anything holding it in.

Do follow up though once you work it out.

Duc

 

[Synergy]

Ok let me break it down. I figured I would give it a try, since I have the same Alt as you. Ok first off the tolerances between case and coil are like 1/1000th of an inch with a depth of about an inch. So prying wont work. I tried with every tool I have. Then I figured its covered in oil, so no stickion (sp). If I can equalize the pressure its should slide out.

I cut a piece of 1/4" scrap to about 80.25mm x 25.5mm I was too lazy to press the button on my mic to convert to SAE.

Then place the metal inside the case on the back side of the ALT like this:

Hold your finger on the metal to keep in in place while you flip the case over to the alt side and you will see the metal through the ALT cover. I used minimal pressure and it slid out like buttah!

How it rests on the ALT from the backside, you just have to distribute the force equally!

All in all about 5 minutes of work! The metal I cut roughly with my sawzall, you can see it crooked, then de-burred with a sanding wheel. I dont want any burs inside my case. Then get some SXL wire, or send it to me and I can build you a new harness, using weatherpaks and SXL wire.

 

[GeryD]

I was able to remove the stator last night. I guess cold Canadian winters are worth something. I applied heat to the housing until it was hot to the touch and I was then able to pull the stator out by hand.

I do like the 'metal strap' idea. I plan on cutting a piece to have it ready just in case. Thanks for the help.

On a side note, I notice a slight discolouration in one group of the coils along the outside edge. How do you test the stator to make sure it's in good working order?

 

[Stick]

To test the stator, you should check for continuity between each of the yellow wires (either 2 or 3 wire stators). This should be a low value, like 1 Ohm or less. Then you should check for isolation to chassis (the cover). You want this to be infinate resistance. Best way to check this isolation is with a hipot tester. Or a home-made setup. You apply a high voltage to the coils w.r.t. chassis, and you're hoping not to see any leakage current or flashover (arcing to gnd.[again, chassis]). Since you can get upwards of 100 volts AC from the yellow wires, at least this much should be applied. But you need to know what you're doing. An electrician might have an instrument called a meggar, but I don't know if the applied voltage can be controlled using a meggar.

 

[GeryD]

Thanks for the info.