I have ohm'd everythhing. Everything passed except the stator wires. I am getting absolutely nothing from the plug in connectors going into the CDI box from the stator(it is 1 plug per CDI(2 CDI's) and I was wondering if I replace the stator do I need to replace those wires or just the stator? I have never had to replace a stator so I am not familiar with what needs to be replaced. PLEASE HELP ME!
stator problems
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I'm not familiar with your problem, but I'll give your post a bump, since I asked a technical question on here and got no response recently.
You probably have one, but the Haynes manual, or LT's manual, or maybe the factory manual, should be able to help you with this, I would think.
You probably have one, but the Haynes manual, or LT's manual, or maybe the factory manual, should be able to help you with this, I would think.
A re-built stator will come with a new set of wires that will connect to the wiring harness, leading to the R/R.
What year and model do you have?
Try this place for re-wiring your existing stator or swapping with a repaired unit:
www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com They may provide longer wires to connect directly to the R/R.
What year and model do you have?
Try this place for re-wiring your existing stator or swapping with a repaired unit:
www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com They may provide longer wires to connect directly to the R/R.
well the wires i meant are coming from the sensor? i just know they are the wires coming from the stator up to the CDI boxes.
it is a 1994 750SS. i bought it and it wouldnt crank. i got it for cheap thinking it would be a project. but i ran into this problem and i wanted to get some answers before i purchased anything. the R/R is ohming exactly where is should be and the wires up to the CDI box are getting no fire according to my test light and ohmmeter. haha so maybe that can get you down to the answer i need?
thanks
Matt
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If I'm reading this right you're not getting a ohms reading on coil pickup wires coming out of the Bottom/Front/LH/ side of the engine. You should be getting 95-105 ohms when you test the red/white wires together and same with the the black/yellow. If you are not getting anything I would say you have a bad cable somewhere. Easy fix if you can find another set of pickups, I sold a spare set no too long ago on ebay, not that it helps your situation. Make sure you test the resistance on your meter leads first, I had close to 40 Ohms resitance in my test leads, any reading should be subtracted from your final reading.
What kind of pickups am i searching for? how hard are they to replace? what are my prices looking like?
I'm confused.
On the front of the left engine case side, there is a heavy gauge wire. This is AC power distribution that goes to the R/R. The R/R will convert AC power to DC power. Somewhere in the heavy gauge wire, between the engine case and R/R, there should be some bullet or spade connectors. The connectors are a weak link. Check the contacts and wires around the connector for burns and brittle or cracked insulation. Replace the connectors with either soldered connections or heavy gauge connectors.
On the back of the left side engine case, on top (above the clutch slave), is a crank shaft position sensor for firing the ignition. It should be close, but not contact the crank shaft.
So your engine turns over but doesn't start. Do you have spark at the plugs?
On the front of the left engine case side, there is a heavy gauge wire. This is AC power distribution that goes to the R/R. The R/R will convert AC power to DC power. Somewhere in the heavy gauge wire, between the engine case and R/R, there should be some bullet or spade connectors. The connectors are a weak link. Check the contacts and wires around the connector for burns and brittle or cracked insulation. Replace the connectors with either soldered connections or heavy gauge connectors.
On the back of the left side engine case, on top (above the clutch slave), is a crank shaft position sensor for firing the ignition. It should be close, but not contact the crank shaft.
So your engine turns over but doesn't start. Do you have spark at the plugs?
There are the R/R wires. it is actually in the backside of the left side engine case. the wires are fine. Then there are the wires that hook up to the CDI box...coming from the pickup sensor. Those wires are showing no fire so therefore i am getting no fire due to the plain jane fact that the pickup sensor is not pushing fire out and it tells the CDI box to fire the plugs. is that a better elaboration?
There are no R/R wires going to the CDI box...the wires come from the sensor. ive inspected the bike up down left and right...CDI box is all part of the ignition system. if one of t hese isnt working properly the bike wont crank...
that is correct the rr wires run to the battery. if your battery and starter are good the bike should crank unless there is a problem with an interlock like the kickstand. however, the bike can crank and still have no spark. did you try jumping the starter solenold?
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182 Posts
Well here is a picture, pickups are mounted on a bracket that sits under the flywheel pretty simple to remove if you have wrench skills.
Basic instruction. Remove side cover, note location of bracket, it has raised lines on the bottom, note the location to the casting of the engine case as new one will need to be installed in the same location, best bet take a picture. To remove bracket remove the two nuts & washers.
Next, to get the wire out of the case, you will need to remove the idividual wires from the plastic plugs (note the location of each wire once again pictures) remove by inserting something small into the plug end to release from the plastic, I use a piece of safety wire. once all wires are free, loosen the black plastic colar & rubber seal on the engine case, once out you should be able to push wire harness through into the case.
Install same as reverse, once new bracket is installed and lined up with your reference picture (or however you marked it) you need to set air gap on the pickups. Best to pick up a hanes manual or google it. simple stuff just easer to read than me try to explain.
Cost...have no idea...I think mine sold for 30 bucks on ebay
Hope this helps a little
Gotcha. bruntr's pic also helps a lot, if that's like your setup.
I'm not sure that you'll actually get a voltage across those wires. I believe that it acts like a proximity probe, a high point on the flywheel will pass the sensor, breaking a magnetic field that triggers the ignition. The only way to test them (that I know of) if by a resistence check and gap away from the high point. They are pretty simple and rugged, which is not to say they never fail.
I'll check the DesmoTimes manual for the acceptable resistence range.
Update: The sensor gap should be 0.6 - 0.8 mm (0.024 - 0.031"). The pickup resistence should be 680 ohms ± 15%, according to LT Synder's desmodue manual.
After reading all your posts, I'm still a bit confused. Does the engine turn over? If it doesn't turn over, check the wiring from the positive terminal, to a solenoid (which should click when the starter button is pressed) to the starter case - all heavy gauge wires. Clean all the connections. Then check the engine case for another heavy gauge wire to the frame and/or the negative terminal. The battery is fully charged? If not, put jumper cables from a car battery to the bike battery terminals. Never disconnect the positive battery terminal while tht engine is running. Hope that helps.
I'm not sure that you'll actually get a voltage across those wires. I believe that it acts like a proximity probe, a high point on the flywheel will pass the sensor, breaking a magnetic field that triggers the ignition. The only way to test them (that I know of) if by a resistence check and gap away from the high point. They are pretty simple and rugged, which is not to say they never fail.
I'll check the DesmoTimes manual for the acceptable resistence range.
Update: The sensor gap should be 0.6 - 0.8 mm (0.024 - 0.031"). The pickup resistence should be 680 ohms ± 15%, according to LT Synder's desmodue manual.
After reading all your posts, I'm still a bit confused. Does the engine turn over? If it doesn't turn over, check the wiring from the positive terminal, to a solenoid (which should click when the starter button is pressed) to the starter case - all heavy gauge wires. Clean all the connections. Then check the engine case for another heavy gauge wire to the frame and/or the negative terminal. The battery is fully charged? If not, put jumper cables from a car battery to the bike battery terminals. Never disconnect the positive battery terminal while tht engine is running. Hope that helps.
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39 Posts
your starter issue
Well if all tested well -- I would have to ask what sound you get when you hit the starter switch? Is it a simple click or a whirl spinning sound (starter clutch not grabbing) Ive replaced probably 3 starter motors due to a bored kit and dealt with slow starting issues which result in burning up the starter .. So if it is clicking then you need to check your ground .. if its spinning noise then your starter clutch is toast -- might as well just replace it -- Ive got a couple laying around if you need it ..
Well if all tested well -- I would have to ask what sound you get when you hit the starter switch? Is it a simple click or a whirl spinning sound (starter clutch not grabbing) Ive replaced probably 3 starter motors due to a bored kit and dealt with slow starting issues which result in burning up the starter .. So if it is clicking then you need to check your ground .. if its spinning noise then your starter clutch is toast -- might as well just replace it -- Ive got a couple laying around if you need it ..
its like a spinning noise..its pretty damn fast when i use jumper cables from my truck. the only time i hear a clicking souund is when the battery is about dead haha. how much you want for a starter clutch?
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