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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Twice I have taken off the cap to find a pickup brush had lost its wire from the post. Flipped a worn out brush around the second time before soldering - don't laugh too much, it started fine for 6 months of daily riding after that. But it quit one day, and I had a new brush kit ready to go in. I really had a hard time getting the bolts lined up, turned the outside casing around a few times to finally get one, then the other to get the bolts snug. It really did not feel right, not like the other two times I was in there. Too tight as soon as the bolt head met the cap and slowly cranked down the case to meet the seat. The other times I just lined it up, pressed it all together with one hand and simply ran the bolts home. Yes, it looks right from the outside as far as lining up to the marks on it and the one I made prior to the first disassembly.

Nope, doesn't work, dimms the headlight a bit but no spin at all. 8 month old AGM battery fully charged. This bike has never shown a moment of issue with the sprag clutch, not like the other bike which has been begging me to replace it for 3 years, so that is not the problem.

The center shaft looks worn to hell even after cleaning it up with electric spray and a few strokes with a nylon brush to get the copper bits shiny. Lots of grooves from the brushes over the 35,000 miles it probably has. The new brushes have very strong springs compared to what I took out.

I've got all day Sunday to get this sorted, I do have a new starter but dread the process for putting it in. On my other bike I have been in there for the alternator three times before I got it right and hated every hour of that repair which is only half of the starter replacement procedure.

Is there something I could have overlooked re-installing the brush kit? I'm sure it did not go back on as easily as the first two times I did this so something is different.
 

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Put the new starter in. It’s really not that big of a deal. The worst part for me was breaking the cable lose without spinning the contact bolt. As my boss used to say:
” If you don’t have the time to do it right, where will you find the time to do it over ?”
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I agree with your boss, that is why I had both the new starter and a brush kit. If I had a bike lift where I could work on it without laying on a cold floor for hours I would have already done it.

My thinking is the shaft is not seated right, worn out on the other end or something inside is not lined up properly. If that is correctable I would rather do that but I can't see from a parts diagram what that might be.

So tempting to take apart the new one to see where it could go wrong, but I won't. Wish I had an old one laying around.
 

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Put the new starter in and stop thinking about it -should take less then 1 1/2 hours to do the job, then ride your bike --screw with the old one at you leisure
 

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... then you can post pictures and your forensic findings/observations so I can learn about it all from you.

... that way I'll know what spares to keep on hand!

(I'm so bad).
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Spares? Buy a second bike or two to keep ahead of the turnaround on ordering parts from Italy.

1 1/2 hrs is not what this shade tree mechanic can pull off for this operation - I've done half the job three times already on the other bike. I will be fortunate to get it under 6 hours.
 

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I’ve only done it once, but it was not a big deal. No special tools necessary, I just followed the manual. You can find a YouTube video to watch first, I’m sure. I have some old pieces of carpet to lay on for this type of thing, or one of those camping foam pads if I really want to be a pussy.
 

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I agree with your boss, that is why I had both the new starter and a brush kit. If I had a bike lift where I could work on it without laying on a cold floor for hours I would have already done it.
I have some old pieces of carpet to lay on for this type of thing, or one of those camping foam pads if I really want to be a pussy.
^^^^^ This^^^^^
If you have neither, I'm sure there is a cardboard box somewhere that you could use. I use them all the time for this purpose. Keeping your body off the cold concrete is the goal, use what ever is cheapest and easiest to dispose of when it gets oil or gobs of old chain lube on it......sean
 

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Common failure with the starter brushes is rotating and breaking the plastic isolator , if you over rotate you will twist it and simply run power to the starter in the wrong spot. Inspect the isolator for cracks or breaks and make sure it is lined up properly. most time the brush kits work fine and you are done after that . If not go for the isolator if not that replace with another starter.

GFiven you have been there multiple times in the past you should be able to change a simple starter easily in under 1 hour by now.

1. drop the oil
2. remove side cover
3. remove the 3 screws and remove old starter
4. use sealer or a new gasket on new starter
5. re-install starter and 3 screw
6. re-install side cover
7. re-install drain plug and oil

or

1. lay bike on right side
2. remove side cover
3. remove the 3 screws and remove old starter
4. use sealer or a new gasket on new starter
5. re-install starter and 3 screw
6. re-install side cover

Or

1. drop the oil / lay bike on side
2. remove side cover
3. find shift arm worn
4. decide to lighten flywheel
5. might as well change starter clutch
6. at this point you are 1/5 the way to splitting the cases and fixing that crank plug
7. those polished and lightened cranks sure do look purdy
8. while the engine is apart you might as well backwards engineer a carbon fiber swingarm
9. craigslist ad vintage supersport parts for sale.
 

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Ducvet you forgot something in your list there --If it takes more then 1 1/2 hours stop drinking the Rum lol
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well, have been drinking steadily for three hours now, time to go kick the bike over on its right side and get into it. Now where did I put that Nichols flywheel and sprag clutch, may as well while I'm in there, hiccup.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Four hours with no side projects, no trips to the auto store, but plenty of stuck bolts.

I've never been in the left side of this bike previously neglected by a plumber whose only experience with tightening things was with threads that were all cast iron. "That'll never leak", he said after putting 190 ft/lbs torque on a steel bolt into aluminum. It's like that all over the bike, and I knew he had that cover off for some reason because I could see his handiwork on the 1/4" thick gasket goo all around it.

Well, it starts. The issue with my replacing the brush kit was revealed as soon as the cover was off - I had jammed the starter pinion behind the idler gear instead of meshing with it. Tightened right down on it so it couldn't spin.

Got a new starter installed, going for a ride eventually to the pub. Thanks guys.
 

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I love people that torque fastners that way---tighten until the bolt goes soft then loosen slightly lol
Back around 2010 or so, I built a VW engine for a fella who tightened the oil drain plug with a 12" Crescent wrench and a two foot pipe wrench extender. He (of course) stripped out the threads of the extended depth aluminum oil pan and brought the engine back to me for "warranty repair". I replaced the pan, and hit him with a parts/labor bill which he bitched about .. but eventually gave in to when I explained to him the drain plug and pan was easily tightened with a standard length 1/4" ratchet. I also built him a set of trailing arms that were set up to accept Porsche stub axles and oversized CV joints. He fucked those up as well, by trying to use a hydraulic press to install some type of truck bearings (??) in the bearing cups. I never took any of his calls for service after that. His money wasn't any good at my shop any longer.

Some people's children, I tell ya whut!!


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Some people can break an anvil in a sandbox---like the sign in my shop says---I'm sorry but I just cant fix stupid
 
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