There is a large topic on this right now, do a search for more options. I just got my M1100 back from the shop and what they did didn't even really fix it. Here is what mine does and what works for mine maybe it will help you.
I turn the key and after the cycle I push the starter. I starts up for about 5 seconds then dies, if I try to push it again it will just crank and crank. So what I do is turn the key off remove the key for 60-90 seconds and then repeat the process. It generally starts and runs for me after that, what I have learned is do not mess with the throttle or its back to square one. Let it run for 2-3 minutes and you should be good to go.
Hope this helps if not the other thread has some other advice.
I took my 1100 in yesterday because I started leaking oil on a ride and my check engine light started coming on after 40 miles or so (twice before I got to the shop). They are going to look into my failing to start issue also as well as the random stalling.
For me, it just takes time to start up. They wanted to make sure I was starting the bike by letting it run through the full computer startup before I hit the starter button. Mine runs rough after this failing to start until it warms up.
Mine won't start and then stall after 5 seconds, instead I just doesn't turn over. It sounds like the ECU isn't resetting - I was told that if the computer doesnt completely boot on startup, it will revert back to the last known good configuration before it is shut off - which is when the bike is warm.
The only things which seem to work consistently are:
A. Using lower octane (easier to ignite, which assists cold start).
B. Replacing ECU.
C. Following this procedure:
If start succeeds, enjoy your ride.
If start fails, proceed to step 4.
Turn off key.
Wait 10 seconds.
Turn on key.
Wait for dash startup to complete.
Attempt start again.
A proper cold start occurs (on any bike) when the revs immediately jump to about twice idle, and then slowly drop to warm-up speed, which should be slightly above normal idle. In the Monster 1100's case, it appears that for some reason the first attempt fails as the bike tries to use idle speed initially, which then drops below idle and stalls. But a second cycle of the electronics causes it to attempt the start properly.
Given the many things I've tried on this bike, I'm pretty sure that it's a problem with the ECU.
I agree with you on the ECU being the problem. Per what the dealer told me, I just don't think it resets properly all the time. I think this is related directly to the stalling at downshift issue.
For me, it just cranks, but never kicks over. I have tried the turn off and wait, I have tried just cranking it. Neither works any different, they both seem to get the bike going in the same amount of time but when you shut the bike off and wait it feels like it works faster because you are doing something.
Stalling at downshift is a different issue due to air bleeds not being open enough. My Yamaha has the same issue. It happens most often when engine braking to near idle, when the sudden disconnect of declutching/shifting causes the RPMs to drop too quickly before the stepper motor can open up enough. The result is a stall.
Unscrewing the airbleeds a bit allows more air past the throttle plate and slows the rate at which RPMs drop, preventing the engine from dropping too far below idle.
The cold start problem isn't an octane issue, but can be "fixed" (in a way) by running a lower octane. 87 burns faster and hotter and more readily than 93, so it helps the engine start. Obviously that's not a real fix, though.
The procedure described by scissors has worked everytime for me. Make sure to let the display run through it's entire cycle - Monster 1100 - odometer reading - then, press to crank. Don't bother touching the throttle for 2-3 minutes.
I've found that in order for my bike to crank over every time, I just have to hit the starter as soon as the mileage comes up. For some reason, when I wait is when it doesnt want to fire. If I miss it, I just shut off the bike, let it sit, turn it on and fire it up as soon as 1100 goes away.
I took my bike in for this and there was little they could do. What they did tell me and seems to work everytime is that if I run into those times it wont start. I turn it off remove the key wait 30 seconds and then start over again. It resets the computer and all things needed for cold weather startup.
Why do people put up with this rubbish?
I paid $20,000 AUD for a bike I expected to start when I wished to ride it. I'll update the other thread I've typed so much into.
Whilst owners go along with Ducati saying "There is nought to be done", Ducati will do nothing. This is completely unacceptable in the 21st Century that a premium motorcycle brand can get away with it.
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