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Stalling issues after swapping to a new pressure plate

1607 Views 15 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  PEHorn84
I just switched my pressure plate from stock to an aftermarket Rizoma plate. The bike is a 2005 999, all stock. During the swap from stock to the 6 pt Rizoma star pressure plate, I also treated my clutch plates with white lithium grease to address the grabby clutch I had issues with. During the reinstall of the clutch discs, I switched the last two steel discs, closest to the engine, with each other because the one originally closest to the engine had some roughness to it. Other than that, I reinstalled in the same order they were taken out.

The pressure plate came with a bearing in place, but I did have to remove the clutch pushrod sleeve(?). It did not go in easily at first, so I put it in the freezer for a while. It still did not drop in place, so I drifted it into the bearing with gentle tapping. I did notice that the bearing did not rotate as freely as the stock one. There was a large difference between stock pressure plate bearing and the Rizoma. Is there a way to improve it?

I had also ordered the EVR stainless springs to go along with the pressure plate, but ended up reusing the stock springs due to the large difference in spring height between the EVR and stock. The pressure plate kit had a total of 12 spacers, each about 2-3 mm in thickness, that go below the cap and between the post. I used both spacers to try to achieve what appeared to be the same height, or preload, as stock. It seems to have about the same clutch pull as before.

Sorry about the long back ground, but I felt it was necessary to help diagnose why this bike is stalling now, in neutral. I've yet to take it on the street, just have it straight upright in the condor. Before working on it, the bike started normally. After working on it, it is having a hard time staying running. It wouldn't stay running unless giving it some throttle upon initial startup. So I got it running, and slowly backed off the "choke" until it was at normal idle speed. I let it idle for about 20 seconds, and then grabbed and held the clutch in for about 15 seconds, listening to the open clutch, and it just died. Any ideas???

Any help will be greatly appreciated!
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Well a few things come to mind. First being, clutch plates out of order are a no no. They come out one way and go back in the same way. I don't know if that's your problem....Next..Lithium grease on your plates? I've never heard of this! The grease may cause your plates to actually bind up....Did you line up the mark on your new pressure plate with the mark on the stud? If that doesn't make sense you probably didn't..... Since your clutch lever has similar clutch pull before you tore things apart it sounds like you spaced the clutch springs correctly...

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I didn't think it would affect much by swapping the order of the first two discs back in because they appeared to be identical, but I can definitely swap it back. The white lithium grease is a fix that has been detailed in some posts on this forum, with most people seeing success. I did line up the slotted post with the mark on the plate, so that isn't it.

Thanks, keep the ideas coming!
Bike Off in 1st gear, clutch IN, reach over and try to spin the pressure plate with your hand, it should spin free. The pressure plate should move about 6mm when pulling in the clutch lever.
Tried your suggestion about putting it in gear, sure enough doesn't spin free. As far as how much the plate comes out, I'd guess it is about 6 mm. So why might it not spin freely like it should? I am 99% sure the only thing I changed from stock configuration was the order between the first two discs as they were put back in, but of course I might be wrong. What do I do now?

You might want to adjust the screw on your clutch lever. It may need to go in a bit to disengage the clutch a little more.

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I measured the stack thickness at approximately 38 mm, but it was with a crummy protractor haha. The clutch pack is supposed to fall in the range of 36-39 mm, correct? Could you provide a little more info on adjusting the screw?

If your clutch was operating correctly before you took it apart and the bike was not stalling, you screwed something up when you put it back together. Take it part again. Put it back together again. Make sure the throwout bearing is properly seated in the new rizoma plate, make sure the clutch pushrod rod is completely seated in the pin and the pin into the bearing.....

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I will try to do it tomorrow, been pretty cold here in Oklahoma City, and my garage isn't heated. Thanks for the tips guys! Always helps to get another person's perspective.
It should not make any differance what way the plates are provided you have them in the correct sequence as you're in neutral the only thing it could be is the preasure plate bearing is not right as it should spin freely otherwise the rubber seals could chew up on the rod I have a spare dp preasure plate in red that could be of some use out of my 748r with a good bearing
Make double sure that the pressure plate is seated properly when you put things back together. When you release the lever the plate should seat flush on top of the disks

Ok, I was finally able to get back to the bike tonight. I took the clutch discs back out and swapped the two discs farthest from the pressure plate back to how they originally were. Reinstalled everything, and with it in first gear and the bike off, I pull the clutch all the way in and I'm able to spin the rear tire by rotating the pressure plate... Bah.. Watching the pressure plate as I pull and release the clutch lever, it will come fully off of the plates with approximately 1/8" of gap, and releasing the clutch lever will allow the plate to sit firmly against the discs. I'm hesitant to try to reinstall the original pressure plate, because I know getting the pushrod sleeve out of the bearing is putting the bearing at risk. I am sure that the stock pressure plate bearing has significantly less rotating friction than the one that came on the Rizoma plate, but I'm not sure how much effect that has on the rest of the system. I can't imagine it having much of an effect to the clutch operation with the engine off.

Is there a chance I'm not fulling inserting the clutch pushrod far enough back in? I stop when it acts like it wants to stop, though there is still a bit of play, in that it takes next to zero effort to push the pressure plate further in, however it kind of weakly springs back out to the point that it originally wanted to stop at upon insertion. Does that make sense?

Once again, I'm grateful for all your help.
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First being, clutch plates out of order are a no no. They come out one way and go back in the same way.
Why? :confused:

I 'shuffle' and flip my plates every so often to even out the wear on both the friction surface and the tangs (outer plates wear the friction surface faster) and never had a problem with it.
So does anybody know what it might be? Can I rule out air in the system since the pressure plate comes fully off the discs? I'm stumped..
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