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Discussion Starter #1
Pannier brackets on, off, or bags on or off, this mod will work with any ST2, ST3, or ST4:

I was fed up with the “antler look” when the bags were removed from the ST…so…

Wanting to use the OEM directionals, and due to the space needed, one has to think inside the box this time. I made the decision to recess the lights into the fender, rather than making wedges (wedges would make the directionals longer), or having to modify the OEM lights. With that said, some plastics bend fairly easily, and this is similar to ABS plastic. So after carefully measuring and making a sketch of the base of the turn signal, I proceeded by slicing the fender in the shape of a "C" on the left side, (and backwards "C" on the other side). This series of 3 cuts makes a "flap" that can bend inwards. Then I measured the inside distance, and ended up using a piece of copper tubing (because I knew that using a tubing cutter, the ends would be very parallel, the copper is fairly rot-proof, and 'cuz I had a scrap piece).
If you’re clever and careful, one of the pieces that get cut off the end of the brackets can be used instead of the copper tubing—now that’s really recycling!
This inside distance isn't very critical, unless you go way too short.
Then, I selected a piece of threaded rod with shake-proof nuts and appropriate flat washers. This said, you'll need to stay small with these, because you need to get a socket over the nuts, and it's in a recessed area of the light's base. I think I used #10 nuts & rod. Oh my, a non-metric part on my bike!

And, if I remember right, I drilled the 2 holes on ea. side PRIOR to completing the cuts, so that the material would not flex under the drill's pressure. It only took me one evening to do this...about 3 hours max. Keep in mind, I never removed the fender or brackets!

I'm very happy w/ the looks, location and overall results.
 

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Bill_Anderson said:
It looks as though the bag could have been made a little larger had Ducati used your "close" in turn signal design.
I think regulations are 9" between turn signal lamps on the rear, minimum. Don't know if this makes it or not.
 

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I was told 8". And it doesn't quite make that. But it's a far cry better than some of the excuses for lights that some people use!
 

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Stick said:
I was told 8". And it doesn't quite make that. But it's a far cry better than some of the excuses for lights that some people use!
You might be right, I can't remember exactly, but I'm sure that's why they don't do it that way at the factory.
 

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So after carefully measuring and making a sketch of the base of the turn signal, I proceeded by slicing the fender in the shape of a "C" on the left side, (and backwards "C" on the other side). This series of 3 cuts makes a "flap" that can bend inwards. Then I measured the inside distance, and ended up using a piece of copper tubing (because I knew that using a tubing cutter, the ends would be very parallel, the copper is fairly rot-proof, and 'cuz I had a scrap piece).
If you’re clever and careful, one of the pieces that get cut off the end of the brackets can be used instead of the copper tubing—now that’s really recycling!
This inside distance isn't very critical, unless you go way too short.
Then, I selected a piece of threaded rod with shake-proof nuts and appropriate flat washers. This said, you'll need to stay small with these, because you need to get a socket over the nuts, and it's in a recessed area of the light's base. I think I used #10 nuts & rod. Oh my, a non-metric part on my bike!

Help me understand the purpose of all this? Is this to reinforce the fender from the inside?

I am interested in doing this.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hi JB, I replied to your PM. Yes, the copper tubing is there to act as a foundation for both lights to be secured to via the threaded rod and nuts.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Someone asked me about photos for the copper tubing, so here are some added/updated pics:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yes, but this is close to free, if you have some scrap stuff kicking around! I think I bought the threaded rod, and nylock nuts
 
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