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Not my finest work by any means, and I am not sure the location is going to be permanent (but probably will be). It is a nice improvement, however, as in it actually works and the MOSFET VRRs are a big improvement over our old style OEM regulators. I have had one in the 916 for most of this season. Steady, clean voltage all the time, even with the single phase generator found in that bike, and much less heat generation. My ST's OEM regulator was dying. Diodes still read good but the regulated voltage level was dropping. I noticed it at idle with the tach dropping to zero and the battery was on the weak side at start up. Stator checked good for both cold check and running.

I am a cheap bastard and hate to pay full price for anything I can get that is serviceable for less... I did the same this time as I did for the 916. Yes, I know new kits are available for reasonable money, BUT you can buy used MOSFET regulators on eBay for less than $40.00 and the plug kit is around $19.00 from here: Home

The VRR I sourced is a FHO12AA. Rated at 50A. They are found in several Yamaha models, mine is out of a 2007ish R1. More info here: http://www.ducati.ms/forums/80-hall-wisdom/94947-upgrade-fix-no-more-charging-regulator-rectifier-problems-8.html

So for about $60.00 I had my upgrade. I have wire and such already on hand, so I didn't count that expense.

I didn't do my homework and was disappointed to find the new regulator does not fit in the same location as the OEM. It is smaller and lighter, but just a bit thicker and does not slide in far enough to the air intake. I considered making it thinner by filing the fins down, but instead relocated it to a spot just above the battery. Not sure this spot is available on anything but the ST4s, and maybe the ST3 as the battery boxes are different due to the ECU location. There is a spare bolt hole in the battery box and just enough room for the regulator to sit securely on top on the battery while bolted in place. Not pretty, but it isn't going anywhere. Only possible concern is airflow, but it will get some through the faring and it is in no worse a place than the 916's regulator comes from the factory. Wiring is ugly. I decided not to cut the DC side of the harness in case I want to go back to the OEM location or somewhere else so there was a lot of extra harness to find a home for. AC side harness already had its plug cut for the normal reasons. I chose to not go directly to the battery on the DC side because I wanted to use the 40A fuse holder already in place and my bike's harness is fine. If I wind up relocating the VRR someplace like the tail section, I will probably go that route.

So, here it is, ugly as hell, but I'll give it a go.

The Shorai is a new addition, and that cool duct tape is just an effort to keep water off the cheesy dedicated charger plug I permanently installed because the ST fairings suck to remove should I need to have it on the maintenance charger. I don't ride the ST much, and there is a parasitic draw from the clock and possible the immobilizer. I am still uncertain how that will work out with the Shorai.
 
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Yeah, I ground the fins down a bit in the back so that they could go far enough into the shark's mouth (intake) on the ST. No problems for two years and no sign of overheating. Love the Mosfet R/R, even though it took me a bit to get used to it's brief warm-up period until it comes into the full charge mode.

I still think you'll need a charger for the Shorai, Dan, but you might get away with it. Still, I think the battery will be happier on maintenance mode.

Ron
 

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Yeah, I ground the fins down a bit in the back so that they could go far enough into the shark's mouth (intake) on the ST. No problems for two years and no sign of overheating. Love the Mosfet R/R, even though it took me a bit to get used to it's brief warm-up period until it comes into the full charge mode.

I still think you'll need a charger for the Shorai, Dan, but you might get away with it. Still, I think the battery will be happier on maintenance mode.

Ron
I may go that route with the VRR fins, but later. I do have the dedicated charge cable permanently attached on this bike. I also think it will need to be kept on maintenance charge because of the parasitic draw and the little use the bike gets these days.
 

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Mr Leakered
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I hacked away at the inlet and chin fairing to get mine fitted. It has worked great for probably three years now.

Have a good one.
 

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So did you mount the VRR under the head light bucket / air intake? One thing I do like about my current set up is that it takes the regulator out of the air duct removing that large obstruction. I have a nice clean open path now to the air box. With the extra snorkels 4V bikes have mounted to the head light bucket, I imagine there is now more air getting back there. Not really a rational thought, because the system is not ram air and not all the STs even have these extra snorkels, but...

The VRR will stay where it is for a while. If it works out, and I think it will, I'll leave it alone. If not, I may take Ron's route and trim the fins down to put it back in the OEM location.
 

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Starting year two with my Shorai. I rarely plug it in, but I try to ride at least once a week. I have an ST3, and I think there is more than enough room for the voltage regulator in that location. :smile2:
 

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Mr Leakered
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So did you mount the VRR under the head light bucket / air intake? One thing I do like about my current set up is that it takes the regulator out of the air duct removing that large obstruction. I have a nice clean open path now to the air box. With the extra snorkels 4V bikes have mounted to the head light bucket, I imagine there is now more air getting back there. Not really a rational thought, because the system is not ram air and not all the STs even have these extra snorkels, but...

The VRR will stay where it is for a while. If it works out, and I think it will, I'll leave it alone. If not, I may take Ron's route and trim the fins down to put it back in the OEM location.
The new reg is in the original location.

With a chopped airbox lid, I doubt the inlet provides much air at all. Not to mention the sharp edges, curves, and retrictions near the headstock probably limit the amount of flow anyway. It was a nice try, but no where near as good as some of the SBK inlet designs.

For me, breathing improvements were immediately felt just by removing the snorkels from the lid. I rode it a day or two like that to get a feel for the sound then chopped the lid completely.

Have a good one.
 

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With a chopped airbox lid, I doubt the inlet provides much air at all. Not to mention the sharp edges, curves, and retrictions near the headstock probably limit the amount of flow anyway. It was a nice try, but no where near as good as some of the SBK inlet designs.

For me, breathing improvements were immediately felt just by removing the snorkels from the lid. I rode it a day or two like that to get a feel for the sound then chopped the lid completely.
No doubt. The SBK system has a much larger air box and the air tubes are sealed at the air box interface. It is a true ram-air system. I think the only benefit you may see from the ST arrangement is just getting some "good air" back there where you may not otherwise with all that fairing in the way. I have my little grill thing removed, has been out years, it just looks the part now with the big open mouth and nothing in the way!
 

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Mr Leakered
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The big SBK boxes are nice, but I heard that the tank sealing is / was a bit of an issue. At least we don't have to worry about CF air runner farkles. Haha!

I pulled that grille years ago also. It looks way better without it.

Goofing around this summer, I was surprised how calm and nice the air was tucked behind the windscreen while wide open in 5th / 6th. Given the airbox is just a few inches lower, it wouldn't feel that it was hurting for air.

If I knew how cool the MOSFET reg is when working, I would have filed the cooling fins instead of the grinding the inlet.

Have a good one.
 

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The big SBK boxes are nice, but I heard that the tank sealing is / was a bit of an issue.
New style, larger, seal actually seals. Makes the tank a very tight fit. Only way for it to be an issue now is to rip the tank off in a crash!
 
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Not a bad spot. I looked back there, but was concerned about spray when riding in the rain. The connectors are well sealed, just felt it was tempting fate. Any issues? How long has it been like that?

I still have my OEM fender (no fender eliminator), and as an interesting option the bolt spacing for the metal license plate bracket is the same as the bolt spacing on the new regulator. It would be a simple bolt-on with longer bolts and it would also be pretty well hidden on the inside of the extended OEM fender.
 

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Its been there since June 21. No problems at all. I went with 10g wire in case of voltage drop. I try to error on the overkill side. I'm @ 13.5v idling.
I ride in the rain. I think the hugger shields it from strong blasts of water.
It's a good spot as far as getting to it. It would be easy to unplug the one connector in case of a jump start, so I won't kill the reg.
It made diagnosing my stator a 5 minute process. I'm thinking of putting a busbar back there. I think that's the term for the dist. block at least.
Ill have an easy time wiring that in, at that location. Plenty of space.
 

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Nice - thanks for the pics. I bought one too but haven't installed it yet because of the issue you noted of it not fitting. I probably should soon as my original VRR now has 12 years and 48k miles on it.

I've had the Shorai on mine for about 4 years now - I'll never use another battery. I do have the expensive Shorai charger which I think is ultimately worth having.
 

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Here is another mounting option.
I forgot one thing. This might be important.
The plug that has wires going in, are the 2 wires from the stator.
The "empty" slot in the center - I filled with RTV to prevent water getting in the plug. I just made sure it was sealed all the way around.
RTV is cool because if I have to remove it, it will come out as a solid piece - like it does with the application nozzle that comes with the tube.

Sealing that was something that I never read about in the mosfet conversion how to's....most were a 3 phase write-up, I guess.
 

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I forgot one thing. This might be important.
The plug that has wires going in, are the 2 wires from the stator.
The "empty" slot in the center - I filled with RTV to prevent water getting in the plug. I just made sure it was sealed all the way around.
RTV is cool because if I have to remove it, it will come out as a solid piece - like it does with the application nozzle that comes with the tube.

Sealing that was something that I never read about in the mosfet conversion how to's....most were a 3 phase write-up, I guess.
Good point, and I dealt with the same issue on the single phase 916. The plug kit I purchased from the linked site in my first post came with all the seals needed, but like you, I was only going to use two of the three spots on the AC input. I just used the seal that came with it, but plugged up the hole that the wire would have gone through. Not really in the weather on the 916, so maybe your idea of a silicon plug would be better in your exposed application.
 
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