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Discussion Starter #1
I have an ST3 and just purchased an ST4 to keep it company, first thing I noticed is that when have the kickstand down on the ST4 is that the engine won't start. The person I purchased it from said that was the way they are and he thought there was a mod that you could do to make it function like my ST3.
Anyone know about that?
 

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Mr Leakered
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Yes. There are some mod bits that you can buy. I believe desmotimes.com has one. Some folks have found that these can lead to running issues.

If you feel like taking on a bit of personal responsibility, you could just remove the slide stand switch and short the connector. The motor will start no matter what position the side stand is in and if you are in gear or not.

I've been running this way for quite a while without issue.

Have a good one.
 

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Still needs a life.
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The first owner of my late 02-ST4s (in BBG no less) installed one of those mods. The bike continually experienced difficulty starting to the point of running down the battery. Once the mod was removed, no more starting problems. I always start my bikes on the center stand, so it was a limitation I could live with.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks I think I will just try to get used to it the way it is rather than risk a starting problem, at least my ST3 is black and my ST4 is Yellow , so I will know witch one I am on.
 

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Gday.. Ive got the bypass switch, like hundreds of others no problems.. You only hear about the ones that have had issues....piss easy install.. Oh and my ST is yellow too!!! Buy one from a reputable dealer like desmotimes and you wont have problems..
 

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Postage from Pensacola FL to Reno NV for a cable and bits is about $9.00 US. Tough times down under if it hits the pension that hard...

Cheers! :D
 

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Postage from Pensacola FL to Reno NV for a cable and bits is about $9.00 US. Tough times down under if it hits the pension that hard...

Cheers! :D
Check out the cost from US to mainland Europe Vinnie....

Cheers.... :D
 

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Check out the cost from US to mainland Europe Vinnie....

Cheers.... :D
Most of my OS purchases save me money even with freight costs, compared to buying from an Oz supplier...

Just on a side note or back on topic, I bought my bypass lead from the UK on ebay.. Cant remember offhand who, it was a few years ago but is well made and from memory about $30-$40 aud to my door.. If anyone wants I'll try and dig up the info..
 

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Postage from Pensacola FL to Reno NV for a cable and bits is about $9.00 US. Tough times down under if it hits the pension that hard...

Cheers! :D
I think your a few thousand miles out ol mate!!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I would like to know if anyone has used this kit, or steer me to one that you have used that worked good for you,thanks
 

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Looks a bit like the one I have. Haven't fitted it yet because of the running issues I have heard about. I'm told by the mechanic that all you need is a diode soldering into one of the cables and it's sorted.
 

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It can be fixed for about 50 cents. Put a diode from the neutral line to the side stand switch so the running circuit stays hot when the bike is in neutral. Mine has worked perfectly for 6 or 7 years so far.
 

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It can be fixed for about 50 cents. Put a diode from the neutral line to the side stand switch so the running circuit stays hot when the bike is in neutral. Mine has worked perfectly for 6 or 7 years so far.
that's like the story of the steam pipe repairman who fixed a problem with a hammer and sent a bill for $1000. Itemized...
- hitting pipe with hammer: $0.50
- knowing where to hit: $999.50

what value diode? where to find the neutral wire? where to connect to the side switch? lots of knowledge required to make this a 50 cent fix.
 

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....but be prepared to pump your pension fund into the postage charge... :eek:
Thought your advice was to the OP...who lives in Reno... :)


LT does charge about $39 US for shipping a ~$39 cable to UK or AUS...I suspect Qantas or BA gets a cut. :D
 

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that's like the story of the steam pipe repairman who fixed a problem with a hammer and sent a bill for $1000. Itemized...
- hitting pipe with hammer: $0.50
- knowing where to hit: $999.50

what value diode? where to find the neutral wire? where to connect to the side switch? lots of knowledge required to make this a 50 cent fix.
Not really, just think about it. The neutral wire comes from the neutral switch. The circuit is completed when the transmission is in neutral. When that happens, an added wire run to the side stand wire that disconnects power to the engine will still be "hot'. Actually, if memory serves, it completes a ground but the principle is the same. The diode on the new wire keeps juice flowing only one way, from the neutral switch to the side stand switch. The size isn't real important, there isn't much current, 2.5 amps has worked for me (the diode is marked with a stripe that goes towards the current flow) so all you need is a simple 12v probe thingy if you need to check which wires do what and when.

I don't remember wire colors or know if the bikes are the same, mine is a ST4 '01. You can get fancy and solder the diode to the leads and heat shrink it. Or say eff it, crimp it, tape it and have a beer.
 
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