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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Does anyone have pictures of the brackets one should cut off to modify the fairings for easier removal? I've tried searching but for some reason the search function here isn't working on Tapatalk (my desktop is nonfunctional right now)..

I have to take mine off tomorrow morning and it sounds line a complete PITA to remove them, so if I can make it easier for next time I will!

Also, any tips to nabs it quicker /easier to remove would be appreciated :)


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I can't speak to the 1st gen ST body, but the 2nd gen body is honestly not difficult. I can remove and reinstall the entire panel in under 15 minutes. The only "tab" that I might consider removing is a small tab at the front under the headlight bucket fairing, but I'm not sure if it would make it any easier.

Advice I'll give is this. If it's the first time you've done it, take your time. Don't force it. You have to remove a total of 6 screws; (1) top (vertical recessed screw), (2) small screws (top front), (1) main panel screw, and (2) bottom fairing screws. If you are doing the right side (as you sit), take your time working the panel around the excess coolant tank - it's a bit tight but lift the bottom of the panel a bit to get some angle and you can work it off. The left side doesn't have this issue and is easier.

I think Desmotimes used to have a Dtuz (?) kit for the 1st gen, but don't know if it's available anymore. I don't think they made a kit for the 2nd gen. After a few times, you should get the hang of it.

Good luck,
Scott
 

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Just Visiting Your Planet
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I'm going to say that the OP has a first gen bike. Second gen 4's were all s-models IIRC.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I can't speak to the 1st gen ST body, but the 2nd gen body is honestly not difficult. I can remove and reinstall the entire panel in under 15 minutes. The only "tab" that I might consider removing is a small tab at the front under the headlight bucket fairing, but I'm not sure if it would make it any easier.

Advice I'll give is this. If it's the first time you've done it, take your time. Don't force it. You have to remove a total of 6 screws; (1) top (vertical recessed screw), (2) small screws (top front), (1) main panel screw, and (2) bottom fairing screws. If you are doing the right side (as you sit), take your time working the panel around the excess coolant tank - it's a bit tight but lift the bottom of the panel a bit to get some angle and you can work it off. The left side doesn't have this issue and is easier.

I think Desmotimes used to have a Dtuz (?) kit for the 1st gen, but don't know if it's available anymore. I don't think they made a kit for the 2nd gen. After a few times, you should get the hang of it.

Good luck,
Scott
I'm going to say that the OP has a first gen bike. Second gen 4's were all s-models IIRC.

Sorry I should have specified, I do have the 1st gen, 2000 model year bike. I've heard it's a PITA because EVERYTHING has to come off..
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
That wasn't so bad...






I see where I could trim a couple places that would make the side fairing removal a 5 minute job, but in reality this took me longer to find the correct allen wrench size and my 3/8 ratchet than it did to remove the fairings :)
 

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If you go to the desmotimes website they may still make a kit that will have you Dremel 2 tabs off (I think between mid panel and headlight fairing). The kit allows you to leave the headlight fairing in place so you can remove the mid and lower panels for service. It also replaces 4 screws with dzus fasteners.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If you go to the desmotimes website they may still make a kit that will have you Dremel 2 tabs off (I think between mid panel and headlight fairing). The kit allows you to leave the headlight fairing in place so you can remove the mid and lower panels for service. It also replaces 4 screws with dzus fasteners.
Looks like they do indeed still have it, $71 + shipping. Right now that's pretty far down on the list of things I need (just bought a new bluetooth helmet and wrist lock cruise control thingy, not to mention my newly acquired old Range Rover is eating up my savings at an astonishing rate :crying:
 

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Had that kit in the toolbox for a few years. Sold it. I came to the conclusion that the old ST fairings are hard(er) to remove, but it's not hard enough for me to cut an otherwise clean set bodywork. You can get them off for service pretty fast with some practice. Oil changes, I just remove the lower right side small panel. I feel the biggest problem is the battery access. If you need one on the road, you have to start at the headlight fairing. I keep a battery tender pigtail on the battery and a custom made harness with a set of large alligator clips that connects to it for jump starts. Haven't needed it.

All things considered, it's not that bad unless you compare it to other Ducatis. The 916 can be bare in about the time it takes to pull the headlight fairing on the ST. I look at other bikes from other makes and wonder how it may compare. My old Suzuki Bandit, for example, you could pretty much plan on breaking something if you dared to pull that little faring off. Plastic locating pins and plastic clips everywhere.

To answer the question, it's the two horizontal tabs on the left and right upper side pieces that need to come off. The DT kit bolts to the bike between the mounting points for those tabs and provides a place to attach well nuts or DZUS clips to mount the join between the headlight and side panels. I know of someone who cut the tabs and did not use the kit. He says there are no problems like that.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Had that kit in the toolbox for a few years. Sold it. I came to the conclusion that the old ST fairings are hard(er) to remove, but it's not hard enough for me to cut an otherwise clean set bodywork. You can get them off for service pretty fast with some practice. Oil changes, I just remove the lower right side small panel. I feel the biggest problem is the battery access. If you need one on the road, you have to start at the headlight fairing. I keep a battery tender pigtail on the battery and a custom made harness with a set of large alligator clips that connects to it for jump starts. Haven't needed it.

All things considered, it's not that bad unless you compare it to other Ducatis. The 916 can be bare in about the time it takes to pull the headlight fairing on the ST. I look at other bikes from other makes and wonder how it may compare. My old Suzuki Bandit, for example, you could pretty much plan on breaking something if you dared to pull that little faring off. Plastic locating pins and plastic clips everywhere.

To answer the question, it's the two horizontal tabs on the left and right upper side pieces that need to come off. The DT kit bolts to the bike between the mounting points for those tabs and provides a place to attach well nuts or DZUS clips to mount the join between the headlight and side panels. I know of someone who cut the tabs and did not use the kit. He says there are no problems like that.
I *might* go that route.. From looking at it, it seems that that the fairings wouldn't come loose or "flappy" with those tabs removed. As it was, now that I've located my necessary tools I think I could get it stripped back down in under 30 minutes. Back together might be another challenge :D


I like the idea of that jump start mod though. I already have the battery tender hooked up so that's done for me.
 

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Did the modification on my 99 ST4. Once you remove the mirrors and the nose fairing you will see the the Two hidden tabs you need to remove. Haven’t had any problems loosing the support of these tabs. I think it’s worth it but you have to really work at it to get fairing around coolant tank. Didn’t go with dzuz fasteners and I can have off fairing in 5 min for battery maintenance and valves and belts.
 

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I know of someone who cut the tabs and did not use the kit. He says there are no problems like that.
This is correct. RockingM posted about it. Afterward, I removed my DT brackets and have been much happier. I suppose that I paid LT $25 at that time to learn which tabs to cut. You only need the brackets if you are doing the Dzus conversion which is not worth the effort to me. I'm a fan of well nuts. Also, Slipping the side fairing between the upper fairing and DT brackets was a bit tricky.

I'd cut those tabs off in a heart beat. My upper fairing has been of just a few times since I modded the sides.

Have a good one.
 

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I did the Dzus conversion on my 99 ST4 years ago. For me it was well worth the time. Its a snap to strip all the fairings off the bike now. No more trying to find the well nut with the screw, no more having the well nut spin while tightening or untightening the screw. A half turn at it synches up every time. Its really nice underneath the two side fairings where you cant see what you are doing. The Dzus finds its own way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks for the advice guys! The other option my mechanic just said is that a couple local people have actually drilled a hole in the upper fairing so you can access those tabs/bolts, then they just buy a small rubber plug to go over the hole.

But, if there's no structural drawback to simply cutting the tabs, I'll likely do that. Question though, if you just neglect to put the bolt back in can you still remove the side fairings or must there be cuts made?
 

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Thanks for the advice guys! The other option my mechanic just said is that a couple local people have actually drilled a hole in the upper fairing so you can access those tabs/bolts, then they just buy a small rubber plug to go over the hole.

But, if there's no structural drawback to simply cutting the tabs, I'll likely do that. Question though, if you just neglect to put the bolt back in can you still remove the side fairings or must there be cuts made?
I think that leaving the tabs on would prevent you from getting the fairing out, esp up front? I could be wrong.

Have a good one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I think that leaving the tabs on would prevent you from getting the fairing out, esp up front? I could be wrong.

Have a good one.
Yeah it would seem so. Probably going to pick up a dremel at work tonight and chop those tabs off. If others have had no adverse effects from cutting theirs I can't imagine I'll experience any issues myself.
 

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I have just NOT bolted those bits back on. It's one (or 2) less screws to get to, is about all. You still have to remove the mirror and flex the top fairing out to slide the mid and lower fairing out from under it.
But if you CUT THE TABS RIGHT OFF, I would think then you could leave the mirrors on? Let me know please. I will cut those suckers off in a heartbeat.
Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I have just NOT bolted those bits back on. It's one (or 2) less screws to get to, is about all. You still have to remove the mirror and flex the top fairing out to slide the mid and lower fairing out from under it.
But if you CUT THE TABS RIGHT OFF, I would think then you could leave the mirrors on? Let me know please. I will cut those suckers off in a heartbeat.
Jim
I spoke with my Duc mechanic again today, he said without the tabs it'll essentially pull right off with a little finagling, didn't mention needing to remove the mirrors which is a pretty big step considering all the little pieces that need to be removed to access those bolts.
 

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I THINK with those tabs cut off you just have to slide the center/bottom fairing down to get it out. But I don't KNOW. Maybe someone can verify?
I know with the tabs ON you need to slide the center/bottom fairing OUT then DOWN. So maybe cutting off the OUT part is the big advantage?
I don't use those right and left plastic bits below the gauge area. I took them off once and am quite happy to leave it that way.
 

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No reason to remove mirrors at all. Fairing comes off easier then it goes back on. Left side is easy but on the right you have to work it around coolant tank. I do remove the 2 bolts securing the small piece between the fork. You do have to work at some and I loosen any well nuts on the upper fairing to give me a little more room and a little less bending.
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
No reason to remove mirrors at all. Fairing comes off easier then it goes back on. Left side is easy but on the right you have to work it around coolant tank. I do remove the 2 bolts securing the small piece between the fork. You do have to work at some and I loosen any well nuts on the upper fairing to give me a little more room and a little less bending.
Thanks for the clarification! Looks like I'll be doing this before I put my fairings back on.

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