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Discussion Starter #1
We moved to a different house on May 8th and I had a hard time getting the bike to start. It sputtered while cranking but just wouldn't catch. On the third try, the bike fired up and I was able to ride it to the new home. The bike has been sitting since that day.

On the 4th of July I went out to ride the bike early that morning but it would not start. The instrument panel looked normal, and the bike cranked away, but would not fire. I tried several times until the battery was dead. Convinced it was the battery, I put it on the Tender and it took all day for the light on the Tender to change to green. After that, I went out and the bike fired right up, but I was too tired to ride so I just put it back on the tender.

This morning I went out and it would not start again. I tried six times. It would crank for about 10 seconds and then the starting cycle would end. Again, nothing unusual on the instrument panel. Unfortunately, I always wear ear plugs when I ride so I could not hear any noises the bike might have been making. I took off all my riding gear and went back out to the garage to look things over. I put the key in the ignition and turned the key. I could hear the relay under the seat but did not hear the fuel pump. I don't know if this is normal, but for as long as I can remember, the fuel pump made this "booo-eee-wip" noise when you first turn on the ignition. Now there is no noise at all. I checked the fuses (no issues) and swapped the relays under the seat. When I turn on the ignition, if I put my hand on the relay I can feel the relay click and then it clicks again after about two seconds. From what I've read in other threads, this should be normal. In another thread, Stick suggested looking in the tank when you turn on the ignition. I tried that and with an LED flashlight, there is no bubbling or any waves in the fuel.

So do I have a bad fuel pump? If I have to replace the pump, what else do I need? I'm guessing I should replace the fuel filter, in-tank fuel line (R10 hose from what I've read) and I should get the big o-ring too.
 

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Open the filler cap and turn on the key in the ignition (you will need your spare key as you can't remove the key when the cap is unlocked). You should hear the pump prime the system and there should be some swirling of gas for a couple seconds. Check the electrical connection to the fuel pump under the tank. If that looks okay, the battery is okay, your relays are okay...then it may be time to delve into the tank.

Check the parts sticky for a fuel pump...much, much less expensive than getting one though Ducati. How many miles on the fuel filter since it's last been changed? Make sure you upgrade the hose clamps while your in there...if you go to NAPA, the clamps for fuel injection systems work really nicely. The typical worm gear cheapo clamps will cut into the hose and not tighten as well. They also have the submersible high pressure fuel line that's needed for inside the tank (a one foot length will be enough). Remember to clean the screen that is under the fuel pump. If you go with an alternative fuel pump, check out SS904's installation posting. Some folks (me included) have had a tough time with the large fuel flange o-ring. Buy a couple...again, check the equivalent parts sticky for reasonably priced o-rings. Run your finger along the surface of the flange to check for burrs...they tend to cut o-rings. Also lube the o-ring before installing...it'll make life a lot easier.

Good luck and keep us posted!

Dan's fuel pump thread: http://www.ducati.ms/forums/5478945-post1.html
 

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77 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Bike is up and running again as it was the fuel pump. I went with the Bosch pump, R10 hose and clamps that Dan recommended in another thread and the Mahle fuel filter that was recommended elsewhere. All from Amazon. Amazon also had the o-rings and said they were in stock, but when I went to check out Amazon said the o-rings would not ship until August 10th! So I bought the o-rings from O-Ring USA and they arrived the same day as the parts from Amazon. For anyone's reference these are the parts:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BZICV8
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005GDJSXQ
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049BIGB6
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002AV7AXC

https://oringsusa.com/catalog/produ...id/66008698/osCsid/dk2np8s57pi02ebebjc4q1agu3
 

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Thanks for the direct links, made for quick ordering as I just replaced my pump this past weekend!
 

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Great news and thanks for the RE that you were able to DIY.

Curious: How did the new aftermarket o'ring fit? The OEM one is a tad loose, making it difficult to re-install... Is the new one any tighter? Recommend going down one size in circumference?
 

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I ended up getting the McMaster 9464K548 5-pack o-rings and they worked great. Just tight enough to easily stay on the pump while installing. I put a little lube on the o-ring and the pump slipped in without damaging the o-ring.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Great news and thanks for the RE that you were able to DIY.

Curious: How did the new aftermarket o'ring fit? The OEM one is a tad loose, making it difficult to re-install... Is the new one any tighter? Recommend going down one size in circumference?
Sorry. Been away for a few days. I thought the o-ring fit just fine and it was not loose in the groove. I did not have to stretch it much to get it into the groove.

Nick
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I also thought the o-ring was just the right size to fit the opening in the tank. I installed the o-ring first and then connected the vent lines from inside the tank to the flange. Next, I applied some Vaseline to the o-ring. After I aligned the assembly with the tank opening I installed the front flange nut just enough to hold the flange in place, maybe 1-1/2 threads. I was able to squeeze the back end (towards the seat) of the flange with my hand, using the edge of the tank for leverage. The flange slipped right in.

Nick
 
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