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Discussion Starter #1
Yup!!! worked fine for the last 2 years and now its over.

I put the key in the on position, fine all lights in dash and light up, into position RUN, choke all the way open.Press the start button and sometimes i hear a click sometimes i dont and the motor won't turn over.

I charged and filled up the battery and got 12.68 with the multimeter.
Retried to start the bike and same issue just a click and nothing.
I checked all the fuses to see if one was burnt but they all seem intact.

Any suggestions?
 

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Start with the obvious: make sure the cables are tightly secured on the battery terminals. Also make sure the the kill switch has not been turned on. Both of these have happened to "someone I know."
 

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I charged and filled up the battery and got 12.68 with the multimeter.
Retried to start the bike and same issue just a click and nothing.

Any suggestions?
Sounds like a bad battery. Freshly charged it should read well over 13V.
 

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I agree to focus first on the battery. Don't just check the connections to be sure they are tight, pull them and clean them, then retighten.

Keep watching the voltage when you try to start it. If it drops below 10.6 you most likely have a dead cell in it. Lights don't impart nearly the load the starter would.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Mmmm yeah maybe i should get load test done on the battery at the local bike shop.
But before ,ill try starting it with the multimeter plugged on and see how much it drops.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Just called the shop up and they said the battery figures i gave them wer perfect at 12,6V ( for a wet type battery ).
But i will still pass by tonight at the local shop for a load test to if a cell is gone in my battery.
I looked up my problem also on desmotime board he seemed to point to the solenoid failure, but most people tell me that if it clicks the solenoid is good.
So i will get the battery status and clean connections first and then go to the solenoid i guess.
Update tomorrow
 

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Just called the shop up and they said the battery figures i gave them wer perfect at 12,6V ( for a wet type battery ).
But i will still pass by tonight at the local shop for a load test to if a cell is gone in my battery.
I looked up my problem also on desmotime board he seemed to point to the solenoid failure, but most people tell me that if it clicks the solenoid is good.
So i will get the battery status and clean connections first and then go to the solenoid i guess.
Update tomorrow
That's fine... but all it tells you is resting state voltage. Watching the voltage while cranking (or trying to) is a home-made load test. If it falls close or below 10.6 you have a bad cell.
 

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Chilehead
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Get out a multimeter and the bike schematic, and start checking.

Could be a relay or the solenoid.

A clicking solenoid can still be bad.

My stepson bought a used ST2, and wouldn't start after a week.

Turns out the wire to the starter had melted on the header and shorted, and burned out the solenoid contacts.

It still clicked, but wouldn't start.

Luckily, it had a 3 month warranty, so I gave him mine, fixed his and put it in mine, and replaced that with the new one when it arrived several weeks later (after our trip to Corsica during which I would occasionally need to hit it with a 19mm wrench to free it).

Tom
 

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Recently having the same problem - I was talking to Nichols about it after getting ok readings on the battery at rest and while cranking. Nichols was telling me to check the actual starter connections - apparently the ST2 can vibrate enough to loosen them on a longer ride. This was the case with me. Also - how're your valves doing? My hard cranking and extra vibes was due to valves needing adjustment. I tend to ride a lot of elevation change - 1500 to 2000 feet every time I go out for a longer ride pretty much, and they still last ok - 6-9k, but they were finally out and needed to be done. If it's really, really bad it might have a hard time cranking over.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ok so got the local japs shop to check ta battery on their load tester last night, they told me the battery was perfect.I took all connections, too and from battery,+ the ground to the frame and cleaned them up nicely.
Still no luck.
Tried to order a solenoid from ducati in montreal told me it would take 15 days to get it.Up here in canada there is only one month of riding left before storage.
Fell on a thread on the net stating that kawasaki ninjas from 84-2000 use the same OEM starter relays as ducatis.As anyone have any info on this?
If thats the case i could be riding again by next thursday.

I know there's a yamaha one but the connectors dont fit.
 

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Chilehead
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Check the connector to the solenoid, it can go bad.

See if it gets 12V when you hit the starter button.

Does the solenoid click?

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yes the solenoid clicks one time when you press the starter button.
But nothing happens.Since it clicks i assume its getting voltage from the starter button to activate de magnet inside.But its worth checking anyway with a tester.
 

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What is that large white plastic connection that can come unplugged or corroded? Could that be the problem? Is that the solenoid connector Tom referred to?
 

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Chilehead
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Yes.

Now check that you have 12V to the battery side of the solenoid all the time, and that when it clicks you have 12V to the starter side.

Tom
 

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Superpimp, since you live in Montreal, why not try Guy at MBP http://mbpducati.ca/). I am sure he can diagnose/fix your problems and get you back on the road quickly. His shop is near St Jean and Hwy 40.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yes i tried calling MBP, even went over last night with no response.No email response either.Probably on a business trip or something martin is a hard guy to get in touch with ,normally.

Im at the office right now ,both once the kids are in bed tonight i will take a look for traces of power from the battery to the solenoid, solenoid to starter.
The white plastic clip was the first thing i checked since i zip-tied it to the solenoid when i bought the bike ( has mentionned in desmo's book ).
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ok so here is the status of the situation.
Check the connections like ST2Lemans said and there is voltage coming from
the starter button to the solenoid when button is pressed.There is also voltage coming directly from battery to solenoid
But none coming out of the solenoid going to the starter when the starter button is pressed.
So the solenoid is indeed guilty.
Thanks for your help everyone.So just need to wait 3 weeks for the parts to arrive.:mad:
 

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Guy may be racing. Not sure. I know he is in his shop at 6am and closes early. I would try him earlier in the day. He likely has a starter solenoid kicking around to get you going.
fwiw
 

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The other thing you can try is to bypass the solenoid with a jumper wire, but it needs to be large gauge, like booster cables for a car. If you do it momentarily, the starter should spin the engine, further proving the solenoid as the culprit.

Note that when doing this, there will be sparks, just to give you a heads-up. The starter draws about 60A when spinning, and close to 200A if it's stalled against a compression stroke. This is what I measured on my ST2.
 

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Chilehead
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You can also reach in through the ducting with a pair of pliers to short the solenoid and start the bike.

Tom
 
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