Ducati.ms - The Ultimate Ducati Forum banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Never Grow Up
Joined
·
538 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Over the last couple months I've read all kinds of stuff about wiring in accessories, terminal strips, relays, fuses and such. Well today I actually went and took the dash off in an attempt to wire in heated grips, Valentine 1 and a marine double USB plug to charge the phone.

It all makes sense to me, and sounds quite simple . . . .. until I get the bike undressed and stand there with a wire cutter in my hands. Then I start second guessing what I thought I understood.

So, a couple questions about the very basics, if I may . . .

[/url]

1. from the top down, fuse #8 I understand is a spare and there are no wires to the bottom. I believe that the 30a fuse is irrelevant, as in, I can install a 3 or 5 or 10a or whatever size I choose depending on what I wire through it. Right????

2a. Is one side of the fuse block jumped together and all 'hot'? Like a terminal strip could be?

2b. if not, then everything running through the fuse block is headed back towards it's own individual power source, right?

2c. and that seems so silly to me that, I'm sure I am not understanding the greater picture regarding fuse blocks.

[/IMG]

3. On the diagram, Safety Relay (48) appears to go to the fuse block. So is everything on the fuse block switched? (powered only when the key is on).

4. Am I overthinking this?

5. Since there's no slack in the harness for me to pull the fuse block up, how is a fat fingered guy like me supposed to actually get those connectors on and off the fuse?




6. Note, in the pic above my gorilla attempt to remove the top screw from the fuse block, it was seized up, thereby tearing it out of the block. :mad:

7a. in the diagram below, on the right side of the relay #40, is this the flash to pass wiring?

7b. It appears to the ignorant (moi) that these wires go from the relay through a terminal strip. Where is this strip on the bike? And which color wire would I tap if I were to kluge my garage door opener to this switch? Orange, Brown or white/red?




I hope to gain a better understanding of how this all works.


Regarding my task at hand...... the heated grips, the Valentine, the USB port.... I'm guessing this is all easier and maybe 'cleaner' to just buy a relay and a terminal strip and find a switched wire that can handle a few extra amps and forget all about that fuse block now that I've broke it.

Can some knowledgeable Ducatista tell me what color wire to find for this task, and where it might be located?

Thanks in advance for any and all answers to the various questions above..
 

·
Never Grow Up
Joined
·
538 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
turn signal indicator

..... and while we're at it...

my turn signals work just fine. However the flashing green light on the dash does not. I presume it's burned out.



I'm about to pull the windscreen and rest of the dash so I'm thinking this might be a good time to get at that light and replace it.

Do I need to also remove the nose fairing to get the instrument panel off?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
168 Posts
I don't have time to go through all of your questions at the moment, but: I have two spare slots in my fuseblock and it is a simple operation to extract the terminals and put wires into them. The fuses ate either permanent live or ignition switched so the permanent ones all get their supply from the battery and the switched ones from the relay.
I found that I just had enough slack in my fuseblock to pull it up and do the work, but you need small fingers!
Make sure that you disconnect the battery before messing about in there!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,568 Posts
1: Yes. Within reason. You need to be sure not to exceed the wattage of your charging system with the added accessories.

2 a, b and c: The schematic of the fuse block you posted directly answers the question. On a schematic anywhere you see a dot you have an electrical connection. If the lines just cross, no connection. Looking at the left side of the fuse box as drawn, it is clear which circuits share a common power source and which have a separate source. I'll add here the left side of the fuse box drawing is source and the right side shows load.

3: Relay 48 is getting its power FROM fuse 6 (not too the fuse box). The side stand switch (if it is up) provides a path to ground for it to energizes sending power to the run / stop switch, if in run, will let the bike start and run.

4: Yes, but it also indicates you may be better off having a friend with some electrical / electronic knowledge give you a hand. ECUs are expensive...

7: I wired my garage door opener (a Flash to Pass) right to the hot lead of my high beam light. Easy, and the module is tucked in right above the head light housing, so it was right there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
469 Posts
1. from the top down, fuse #8 I understand is a spare and there are no wires to the bottom. I believe that the 30a fuse is irrelevant, as in, I can install a 3 or 5 or 10a or whatever size I choose depending on what I wire through it. Right???? Yes you are so far

2a. Is one side of the fuse block jumped together and all 'hot'? Like a terminal strip could be? No- Direct power only goes to fuses 1 and 7 from the battery. Fuse 1 then supplies power to fuse 5 [so your display keeps its memory] then on to the ignition relay. Fuse 7 provides power to the RH switch but only when the side stand switch allows the safety relay to work. The other fuses rely on switched power.

7a. in the diagram below, 40 is the left hand switch group

7b. This "strip" represents the connections in the LH switch group
I have attached a coloured schematic for the later ST2/ST4 that might help in tracing things. Cheers Rik
 

Attachments

·
Never Grow Up
Joined
·
538 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the answers so far.... I need to chew on this a little. Plan to move forward next weekend.
 

·
Never Grow Up
Joined
·
538 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Think I got it now..

First - the green turn signal light on the dash wasn't burned out. I took the windscreen off (replacing with a zero gravity) and wiggled the lamp in attempt to pull it out the back and . . . . blink blink blink, it started functioning properly. I wriggled and muscled it about but could not reproduce the loss of connection. Well, at least I know where to look again if/when it happens.

Thanks again all, I love that colored schematic. Once I printed it out it really came to life. Baby steps.

I also found something I'd been looking for awhile. Had seen it in the past and finally bumped into it again over on Canyonchasers website.

Used by permission ....



Being a visual kind of guy, this kindergarten level drawing made sense to me. The only thing the drawing doesn't really show is that all the +++ side is jumpered together, as well as the --- side of the terminal strip.

So, I've ordered the last couple bits from Amazon and will attack it this weekend.

The only caveat being I need to do some math before I start. The grips are a couple amps, the voltage meter is minimal, the dual usb port is 1.5 amps, and I have no idea what the Valentine1 pulls.

No heated vest planned at this point but I am guessing that may be the straw to break the camels back.

Cheers!
 

·
Ducati Designs
Joined
·
1,123 Posts
You might want to look at something like this:

FUZEBLOCKS.COM

Twisted Throttle sells one as well, and I've seen others.

It does everything you want and is self-contained. It provides a fuse for each load; this is important, as you'd have to size the single fuse in your model for the combined current of all the loads, and if any load was shorted, none would work (if you were lucky and the fuse blew) or the wiring would go up in smoke. The Fuzeblock allows you to select switched or un-switched for each load simply by moving it's respective fuse.

pg
DD
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top