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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I would like to thank Dave and the crew @ GP Suspension. I sent them my ST-3 forks and a set of forks from a 996 and I now have 3-way adjustable forks w/new springs and valve kit. What a difference, I notice it right away. The forks handle the bumps in the road better, don't compress as fast on braking and just work better. It took a while to find the forks and I am glad I did. I am enclosing a photo of my ST-3, I did the 12,000 maintainance this winter and I also made some other changes. I finally got her out Thursday and I really do love this bike.
 

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ummmmmmmm... St. Paul... hockey State? Last I checked St. Paul was a city within the State of Minnesota. You wanna talk hockey? Let's start with the Black Bears of Maine. As far as suspension work goes... Here's a plug for NCRick and Cogent Dynamics.
 

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couchflyer said:
I would like to thank Dave and the crew @ GP Suspension. I sent them my ST-3 forks and a set of forks from a 996 and I now have 3-way adjustable forks w/new springs and valve kit. What a difference, I notice it right away. The forks handle the bumps in the road better, don't compress as fast on braking and just work better. It took a while to find the forks and I am glad I did. I am enclosing a photo of my ST-3, I did the 12,000 maintainance this winter and I also made some other changes. I finally got her out Thursday and I really do love this bike.
Glad to hear the 996 innards are working for you. I recently added new springs and valving and found improvements similar to yours. Many more happy rides ahead I'm sure.
 

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That is a cool way to add adjustability to the showas. Did they install the parts in the Marzocci forks? I have been thinking about that. RaceTech makes a replacement cartridge that will work in those. I never checked the fork cap threads to see if the Superbike to ST-3 Marzocci forks. I like it.
 

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couchflyer said:
It took a while to find the forks and I am glad I did. I am enclosing a photo of my ST-3, I did the 12,000 maintainance this winter and I also made some other changes. I finally got her out Thursday and I really do love this bike.
Michael, what procedure did you follow when you installed the front wheel? The reason I ask is it looks like your axle sticks out a bit more than usual. Due to variations in forks and triple clamps it's possible it's correct but it wouldn't hurt to check. If the forks are clamped onto the axle in a less than optimum spot (it only takes less than a mm to make a difference) then you will experience increased fork stiction and internal wear. Get it right and the forks will work harmoniously and your riding will reflect that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
NCRick, I purchased a used set of gold nitride Showa forks that were taken off a 996. GP Suspension was able to put the lowers and the guts into my ST-3 upper tubes.



Mike, I used the ST-3 axel, which has the holes in it for the adjustments. I was surprised how tight the axle fit in the forks. I made sure the axle fit in the proper spot when installing the front wheel. I was worried about that they wouldn’t fit too.

Mike
 

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couchflyer said:
Mike, I used the ST-3 axel, which has the holes in it for the adjustments. I was surprised how tight the axle fit in the forks. I made sure the axle fit in the proper spot when installing the front wheel. I was worried about that they wouldn’t fit too.
If the axle is a tight fit it's probably because it's become ovalized from pinch bolt torque. When this happens it makes it more difficult to get proper fork alignment. How did you determine where the proper spot was for the axle?
 

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couchflyer said:
The fork and the axel have a cut out and I lined them up. See attached
That looks good but I was referring to lateral errors. In other words the forks can clamp to different locations along the length of the axle. I was concerned because of the amount of axle that was protruding from the right side as was evident in the first photos you posted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
L2Bike,

Mine are Showas. I believe all ST-3s are Showas. Just make sure you get the correct fork lowers.


Mike,

I made sure the axle was in as far as it went ( I believe I tapped w/a hammer and a 2x4). I then lowered the wheel on the ground and moved the forks up and down by the handle bars. I then tightened the bolts on the fork.
 

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couchflyer said:
I made sure the axle was in as far as it went ( I believe I tapped w/a hammer and a 2x4). I then lowered the wheel on the ground and moved the forks up and down by the handle bars. I then tightened the bolts on the fork.
That's the proper procedure and works if the axle isn't ovalized (it sounds like yours is). I've had good luck with an ovalized axle with the following procedure:

Measure existing fork stiction. This can be done subjectively by observing how much stiction there is when you alternate pushing down slightly on the handlebars (until the forks move) and then pulling up until they move. Observe how sticky they are. Alternatively, you can do it objectively by measuring sag using the two measurement method that accounts for stiction.

Then loosen the pinch bolts at the bottom of the right fork leg and tap the fork leg outwards until it moves a mm or two outboard on the axle. Then slightly tighten the pinch bolts and measure the stiction again using the same procedure. If it's less, loosen the right pinch bolts again and move the axle further outboard. Use trial and error to find the spot with the least stiction. This is the the spot where the forks are in best alignment and will result in the most supple handling and least wear on the fork internals.
 
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