Ducati.ms - The Ultimate Ducati Forum banner
  • Hey Everyone! Enter your bike HERE to be a part of this months Bike of the Month Challenge!
1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,055 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Short story: bike rides like a ton of bricks. Not too much brake dive which is nice however. Great on smooth roads, but:

1.) It's a super hard and punishing ride,
2.) I get handlebar shakes over really rough roads when leaned over
3.) I occasionally go airborne over some bumps!

I'm about 5'10 and 180 (max) fully geared up

Bike is a '95 with stock adjustable SP suspension, and in great shape for being 17 yrs old. I ride street only, but may do an occasional track day, someday.

What do you guys recommend?
How much might it cost? (That is ALWAYS the question)

Fork rebuild? Revalving? Race tech?
Rear shock rebuild?

I know nothing about this and don't have time right this second to pour over 3 million suspension threads.

Thanks for your input whatever it might be!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,434 Posts
The forks are under-sprung and over-dampened. You can go the Racetech route, or send them to a reputable suspension tuner. I've had good luck with these guys, but there are plenty of others:
Motorcycle Fork Services and Prices | Lindemann Engineering

Forget about the stock shock if you want a really well suspended bike. It too is over-dampened, but also over-sprung. I'd recommend a longer Penske or Ohlins to raise the rear for better turn in. Something like this:
Penske 2-way Piggyback Shock | Suspension | Products | ca-cycleworks.com
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
662 Posts
I've done exactly what Joe is suggesting and like the results. For the budget minded, just getting the right springs up front is critical and makes a big difference. The stock front springs are right for something like a 220 lb rider so Racetech can set you up for your weight. Getting the rear higher can be handled with the stock shock from a '99+ 900SS; it's longer and cheap if you can find it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,055 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I like the turn in, so to speak. Then again I don't have much to compare it to. I rode a bike with ohlins once and was amazed at how comfortable yet sporty it was.
I'd love comfort and sportiness.
Thanks for the tips! But that Penske is a little too crazy for me.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,496 Posts
A short term 'quick' fix - try backing off the compression damping adjusters... They may have been messed with, and will cause a similar effect.

You may find that it's never had it's fork oil changed... Just doing that alone will make a huge difference. I did mine myself a few (6 or so) years back - and despite it having been 'serviced' by theoretically reputable shops over the years - what came out was a grey sludge. I flushed all the old goop out with kerosene, made sure they were clean and well drained, then refilled with ATF (as recommended, plus 2cm) - and WHAT a difference! I'm bracing myself for a repeat, as I'm prepping for a long (~4000km) ride, and I've got a set of Ohlins springs I've been 'getting around to fitting' for about 3 years now. :eek:

I've also got an Ohlins shock on the back - all I can say is it's superb! Once I'd 'tweaked' the settings a bit to get it dialled in for me... ;)

If you do the forks yourself, get a Haynes manual. It has some handy tips on dismantling the forks, as you need to remove the springs before you replace the oil, to enable accurate measuring of oil level - DON'T just go by oil volume measured in.
 

·
Average Weird Guy.
Joined
·
1,363 Posts
I installed a set of fully adjustable SP front forks on my CR and rebuilt them myself with Racetech springs and Gold valves and installed an Ohlins S46PR1C1L shock. It was expensive but I'm a happy camper.:)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
731 Posts
sounds overdamped on both compression and rebound. Try backing off one or two clicks at a time. Adjust, ride, repeat.

righty/in = adds damping, lefty/out = remove damping (at least on my showa/ohlins)

See if a local shop will help set sag and establish base settings. Our LBS does this for $50. Otherwise take the next step of rebuilding and then setup.

a good price for Ohlins valving kit in forks along with springs is about $500 (winter price when shops are slow.) A new shock is about $700, not sure if yours is worth rebuilding (if it is stock.) Price depends on where you are in the world and local expertise.

See Joe-B post

The first two steps are highly recommended before cashing out, as you may have the good bits already.

I have the fully adjustable Showa forks off a 1000ss, resprung and revalved (Ohlins) by Rick at Cogent Dynamics. Also bought an Ohlins piggyback shock with custom preload adjuster for easy adjustments when touring with load.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,977 Posts
the non 1000ss non sbk (916 onwards) forks are all flawed internally, but can be fixed. the 1000ss seems to have the long rebound rod style internals like a 916 on sbk in the 50/54mm outer leg forks, the only one i have seen to do so.

the fork oil often turns to grey sludge too. especially if the rebound circuits are doing a lot of work. i've notcied that in bikes that have compression one side and rebound the other that the compression leg is usually much cleaner.

but i'd start with winding the adjusters out. they were set from the factory about 4 clicks out on the forks top and bottom, which was horrible. i go 8 or so clicks out at the top (rebound) and 10 or so out at the bottom (comp). 5 weight or even 2.5 weight oil also helps.

the springs are dual rate (not really progressive) and the soft section leads to a lot of sag. wind the preload up to reduce the sag and you get into the hard section, which makes them harsh. fit a linear spring to suit your weight.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,055 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks guys. The stock SP forks should be decent. I think I'll just do a fork oil change/cleanup and a set up all around for my weight to start with. All the other stuff is a bit high-$$ for me right now. i'd love a $1k shock and some ohlins fork internals but now's not the time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
293 Posts
The SP forks are not really "decent". And they are not oversprung.

The front spring starts at .6 kg/mm and changes to .9kg/mm at about 70mm of compression (which amount of travel depends on your preload).

GSX-R cartridges fit quite easily but you still have to get springs for the 900ss forks. That fixes the design flaw Brad is talking about.

There is also a K-tech kit worth considering but it is maybe a bit overdamped for the ss. It might work a lot better if you had lower clip-ons and thus more weight on the front end. If I were to install them again I would remove a shim from the rebound at least (I weigh 75kg without gear).

I think the rear end is also not oversprung for most people (has the same spring ratio than the ohlins comes with) and I feel it is quite decent compared to the front end. Racetech recommends surprisingly soft rear spring for the ss which might have something to do with the linear linkage (most bikes have progressive rear linkages).
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,389 Posts
I went with Race Tech and Ohlins rear. $1100 , I do have a OEM stock rear from a 99 900ss for sale cheap..

Doing this to my bike has knocked off 4 seconds off my lap times at the Track.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,055 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
How did you do that?
The ohlins rear alone is 960 bucks..

Thanks for the help.
I'm going to maximize what I can do with the stock bits first, and if necessary I'll dig deep.

People say suspension setup makes a bike a whole new experience. Lookin fwd to it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,389 Posts
How did you do that?
The ohlins rear alone is 960 bucks..

Thanks for the help.
I'm going to maximize what I can do with the stock bits first, and if necessary I'll dig deep.

People say suspension setup makes a bike a whole new experience. Lookin fwd to it.
Well you need to shop around and do your home work. lol I did get a deal on parts ,but $1300 in parts is the best improvement!!
Hands down.
Race Tech $228
labor 100
oil/seals 25
Ohlins 880ish
$1300
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,055 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Haha. Thanks. You got the DU235 from ohlins?
Some use a different one apparently, but their website recommended that one.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,977 Posts
The SP forks are not really "decent". And they are not oversprung.

The front spring starts at .6 kg/mm and changes to .9kg/mm at about 70mm of compression (which amount of travel depends on your preload).

GSX-R cartridges fit quite easily but you still have to get springs for the 900ss forks. That fixes the design flaw Brad is talking about.

There is also a K-tech kit worth considering but it is maybe a bit overdamped for the ss. It might work a lot better if you had lower clip-ons and thus more weight on the front end. If I were to install them again I would remove a shim from the rebound at least (I weigh 75kg without gear).

I think the rear end is also not oversprung for most people (has the same spring ratio than the ohlins comes with) and I feel it is quite decent compared to the front end. Racetech recommends surprisingly soft rear spring for the ss which might have something to do with the linear linkage (most bikes have progressive rear linkages).
which year model gsx-r ones fit?

the k-tech kit info is good. i know torbjorn has fitted a couple , but mainly to track bikes i had thought. they're a bit harsh for the road?
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top