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Hello,
I’ve had my 2008 1000S now a few days and I’ve managed to get it out a couple of times (despite all the rain here in the UK). I have an annoying problem which I hoped would go after a long run and a fresh tank of petrol (hadn’t been used in ages) . . . but it hasn’t:(.

Basically on hard acceleration every now and then the engine seems to misfire . . . which makes the bike dive forward . . . it kind of coughs, clears its throat and we’re off again but it's off putting to say the least.

The first trip, it coughed until the bike was properly hot (e.g. 10-15 miles of fast(ish) riding), the second trip it was fine cold and only did in once it was hot.

I still love it, but it would be nice to have completely smooth delivery of power. It idles fine by the way.

Has anyone got any suggestions?
Phil
 

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I am having the same problem in my Monster 900 and would like to know the solution to this as well. Hopefully someone will chime in soon.
 

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After hearing good reports on automotive forums, I suggested Seafoam fuel additive to my father who was having a similar problem with his carbureted 1993 Honda. He mixed the recommended dosage (maybe a little more) with fresh gas, ran it long enough for the treated gas to get into the carbs, then let it sit for a couple of days. He said it runs like new now.

*Never use any fuel additive in any vehicle or you will likely void the warranty and contribute to tank spread and/or climate change.
 

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Hello,
I’ve had my 2008 1000S now a few days and I’ve managed to get it out a couple of times (despite all the rain here in the UK). I have an annoying problem which I hoped would go after a long run and a fresh tank of petrol (hadn’t been used in ages) . . . but it hasn’t:(.

Basically on hard acceleration every now and then the engine seems to misfire . . . which makes the bike dive forward . . . it kind of coughs, clears its throat and we’re off again but it's off putting to say the least.

The first trip, it coughed until the bike was properly hot (e.g. 10-15 miles of fast(ish) riding), the second trip it was fine cold and only did in once it was hot.

I still love it, but it would be nice to have completely smooth delivery of power. It idles fine by the way.

Has anyone got any suggestions?
Phil
This happens to my '07 GT1000. When I first picked it up it had sat for around a year as well. After running a few fresh tanks of fuel, PURE I might add, it's running much better.

However, I still have some sputtering/coughing issues when riding the bike cold. I seem to find myself constantly stalling out if I stop any time within the first 10 or so minutes of my ride.

One more note, my Fat Duc race line needed to be re-adjusted as the previous owner had it running way too rich. This wont be an issue if you have an after market ECU.
 

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Seafoam is awesome...I use it a lot
 

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Basically on hard acceleration every now and then the engine seems to misfire . . . which makes the bike dive forward . . . it kind of coughs, clears its throat and we’re off again but it's off putting to say the least.

The first trip, it coughed until the bike was properly hot (e.g. 10-15 miles of fast(ish) riding), the second trip it was fine cold and only did in once it was hot.
When I first picked it up it had sat for around a year as well. After running a few fresh tanks of fuel, PURE I might add, it's running much better.

However, I still have some sputtering/coughing issues when riding the bike cold. I seem to find myself constantly stalling out if I stop any time within the first 10 or so minutes of my ride.

One more note, my Fat Duc race line needed to be re-adjusted as the previous owner had it running way too rich.
It seems to me that your ignition system (spark) isn't performing correctly. Any buildup of residue or soot (like from an over-rich mixture) can foul your plugs and create resistance. When your bike is cold, or when you're accelerating, you are putting more fuel into the cylinder and it's that much harder for the mixture to ignite. Of course, old or contaminated fuel will contribute to the "doesn't want to burn" problem.

I used to ride two-strokes back in the day, and while with modern electronics it's MUCH rarer now, the symptoms you describe sound just like your plugs are dirty and the system isn't able to provide enough electrical power to create spark under heavy load.

Pull out a plug or two and eyeball them. Look for oil, soot, or an excessive gap. If you've got anything like that, you can clean your plugs and re-gap them. Or do the right thing and just replace them.

Good luck with solving this, it sounds pretty irritating.
 

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It seems to me that your ignition system (spark) isn't performing correctly. Any buildup of residue or soot (like from an over-rich mixture) can foul your plugs and create resistance. When your bike is cold, or when you're accelerating, you are putting more fuel into the cylinder and it's that much harder for the mixture to ignite. Of course, old or contaminated fuel will contribute to the "doesn't want to burn" problem.

I used to ride two-strokes back in the day, and while with modern electronics it's MUCH rarer now, the symptoms you describe sound just like your plugs are dirty and the system isn't able to provide enough electrical power to create spark under heavy load.

Pull out a plug or two and eyeball them. Look for oil, soot, or an excessive gap. If you've got anything like that, you can clean your plugs and re-gap them. Or do the right thing and just replace them.

Good luck with solving this, it sounds pretty irritating.
Good advice. The first thing I did was replace oil, then the spark plugs with Iridium ones, instead. I haven't noticed a difference but I figured it couldn't hurt.

Also, maybe check your air filter? Could be a dead rat in there or something else causing the engine to choke. I swapped mine with a K&N...
 

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+1 Riderjeff. Iridium spark plugs use a different gap than specified in the service manual. Be careful, they are a different heat range than originally intended for this bike. These bikes will always stutter if you open them up at low RPMs.
 

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Sounds to me that the fueling could be too rich. Sputtering when warm where it doesn't when cold indicates too rich mixture.

Do you have any fuel trim mods installed? It's a common mod because the engines are lean from factory which caused cold running probs and stalling. But perhaps it gone a smidge too rich?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I don't know whether it's had any 'fuel trim mods'. I'm assuming I would need to hook it to a computer to tell? It has got 2-2 termi's.
I should have mentioned this before but the engine light came on once for about 5 seconds (10 minutes into ride and whilst accelerating).
I'll have a look at the plugs tonight.
Thanks for the help guys
Phil
 

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you can mess with the air trim screws, see if that helps. mine needs adjusting now and then. mostly for stalling issues. as well as check the outside air sensor behind the headlight. I recall people having issues with that after a wash or riding in the rain.
 

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you can mess with the air trim screws, see if that helps. mine needs adjusting now and then. mostly for stalling issues.
Uhm, I wouldn't recommend that at all unless you KNOW what you're doing!

Papa, if you need to keep fiddlin' with yours then something is wrong. With fuel injection there's no need to keep tweaking the system; you should have that looked in to -- it may be as simple as thread locker on the screws to keep them from moving.

as well as check the outside air sensor behind the headlight. I recall people having issues with that after a wash or riding in the rain.
I was one of those folks. Looks like the previous owner of my girl had some issue because it was monkeyed with :mad: Haven't had any issues lately, thank goodness.
 

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These bikes will always stutter if you open them up at low RPMs.
Not true. They will lug the motor if you are in a high gear and very low rpm, but they will not missfire unless there is an actual fuel or ignition problem.

There is no reason to accept less than perfect fueling with these bikes. That *can* be set up properly.
 

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If they weren't firing there would likely be deposits on them, they're perfect, but check the gap. May be a fuel starvation issue.
 

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What kind of RPM are we talking about? These bikes are geared pretty tall from the factory so you're probably not going to be able to ride 10mph with the clutch out without a sprocket change. Are you sure you're just not lugging the engine?
 

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Hopefully it isn't your valve guides going bad.
 
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