Hey Bohdan, would you mind doing a detailed writeup on the clutch slave? I've been wanting to order one but not completely sure how to go about swapping & bleeding. Thank you very much!I've done both. Dealer changed sprocket to 14t from stock 15t - this is typical to all Ducs, performed routinely on every new bike. Stock bike is overgeared to meet emissions (these are measured at specific rpm, so this is trick to shift this point). Sprocket was $40 + 1/2 hour labor - I let dealer do it, they have to earn their living too.
Clutch slave is also typical upgrade. I have done it myself, and my advice is - do not wait for 600 mile service, don't waste your time and money to let dealer do it. This is very simple job, took me from start to finish (including bleeding) about 30 minutes. If you have Philips screwdriver, 13mm socket and 5mm hex key you can do it too. If there is interest, I can post detailed writeup.
So order your Oberon 29mm slave (best bang for the money, very high quality - UK made - and good engineering) and spend 1/2 hour getting acquainted with your bike. Your left hand will feel immediate relief.
You will need:
- 5mm hex allen key for slave screws
- 13mm socket or open wrench, 8 mm wrench for bleed nipple
- Phillips screwdriver for fluid reservoir lid screws
- 1/4 bottle of DOT4 fluid, length of 5/16OD/3/16ID clear vinyl tubing for bleeding (ACE hardware) and plastic container for spent fluid, some white lithium grease, MixMizer plastic syringe ($3-4 at WalMart)
- paper shop towels, piece of aluminum cooking foil
Here is step by step:
- put bike on rear stand if you can (easier access)
- remove rubber cover from nipple on slave (take it out completely)
- loosen 3 screws fastening slave (5mm allen), do not remove yet
- with piece of paper towel around base of banjo bolt to catch leak, loosen the banjo bolt
- remove 3 fastening bolts, pull slave straight out. Wrap in towel, then piece of foil to hold and catch possible spill (shouldn't happen, just in case)
- hang wrapped slave on frame, do not remove banjo bolt and line yet
- clean clutch rod from old dirty grease, apply thin coat of new grease to it
- slide new slave right on (comes preassembled) and fasten with 3 screws. You can reuse original ones or new from set - I used new.
- fill slave with fluid through top opening - use plastic syringe with piece of tubing to pull fluid from container, remove tubing and slowly fill slave
- unscrew banjo bolt from OEM slave, use provided copper washers from set to replace original and quickly screw it into new slave. If you do it fast you should not spill any fluid. Wipe of any spill immediately from any bike part.
- now you need to bleed it. Put clear tubing on nipple - should go tight expanding while forced on, sealing connection. Apply white grease to bottom of nipple to seal threads when you loosen it for bleeding.
- open handlebar reservoir - remove 3 screws from lid, pull it up with diaphragm transferring immediately to paper towel to avoid any drop of fluid to be spilled. Bike on stand will have reservoir in better position.
- remove all original, murky fluid from reservoir - use syringe. Dry off inside with paper towel, so old fluid is only in bottom connection. Fill it with new fluid, avoid spill (creating kind of catch basin from aluminum foil helps to protect bike).
- put lower end of tubing attached to slave nipple into plastic container. Loosen nipple quarter turn, pull clutch in, close the nipple. You should see fluid with few bubbles of air coming out in tubing. Repeat until air is gone and clear fluid comes out, then few times more to be sure. If you done it correctly, 6-7 times will be enough.
- fill the reservoir 2mm above low level mark, replace lid, screw it down.
- tighten nipple, clean grease base, put the rubber cover on.
- you're done. Go for a ride, enjoy new lighter clutch.
Time from start to finish - approx 20 min. If you have purchase stuff for bleeding, you will keep it for future brake bleeding.