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Will be changing the gearing and changing the clutch slave at the 600 mile service.
Has anyone done either and if so, what did you do and what is the result?
Thanks in advance
 

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I've done both. Dealer changed sprocket to 14t from stock 15t - this is typical to all Ducs, performed routinely on every new bike. Stock bike is overgeared to meet emissions (these are measured at specific rpm, so this is trick to shift this point). Sprocket was $40 + 1/2 hour labor - I let dealer do it, they have to earn their living too.
Clutch slave is also typical upgrade. I have done it myself, and my advice is - do not wait for 600 mile service, don't waste your time and money to let dealer do it. This is very simple job, took me from start to finish (including bleeding) about 30 minutes. If you have Philips screwdriver, 13mm socket and 5mm hex key you can do it too. If there is interest, I can post detailed writeup.
So order your Oberon 29mm slave (best bang for the money, very high quality - UK made - and good engineering) and spend 1/2 hour getting acquainted with your bike. Your left hand will feel immediate relief.
 

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I ordered a yoyo dyne slave cylinder. I am going to withhold the sprocket change but I have heard lots of positive results with this mod.
 

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another thing to do prior is check out http://www.gearingcommander.com/ and plug in the changes you want to do. This will tell you exactly the results in speed and rpm's, whether you change the front or the rear sprocket.
 

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I went up 2 teeth in the rear (38 to 40) instead of going to 14 in the front. It's almost equivalent. Main reason is my service guy said the 14 doesn't allow a lot of clearance and once the rubber guard wears through you can end up digging into the swingarm. Is this BS? I have no way of knowing, but time will tell.

But for rideability, it is definitely better. I might even go up to 42. If I was doing a lot of city riding I definitely would go to 42.
 

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Blame the universe not the tank!
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I tend to agree that the rear has more room for adjustment, with less chance of consequences. The chain is only on some of the teeth, and for me, having less teeth to chew chain under load as opposed to adding teeth to the rear makes sense to me. You can always set up the quick change and have both ratios for the rear, if you want to spend the money on the set up.

I did a post a little while back on the 41 tooth setup.
http://www.ducati.ms/forums/showpost.php?p=654696&postcount=14
T
hat website, from previous post above, has the 1098 preset, you have to change just a few numbers to match the transmission of the SF, but it kicks out some cool info for FREE!! Then spend the money. I found it very nice to plug in an RPM, and attain a certain speed limit that keeps you out of the dead spot (when I had it).
 

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I've done both. Dealer changed sprocket to 14t from stock 15t - this is typical to all Ducs, performed routinely on every new bike. Stock bike is overgeared to meet emissions (these are measured at specific rpm, so this is trick to shift this point). Sprocket was $40 + 1/2 hour labor - I let dealer do it, they have to earn their living too.
Clutch slave is also typical upgrade. I have done it myself, and my advice is - do not wait for 600 mile service, don't waste your time and money to let dealer do it. This is very simple job, took me from start to finish (including bleeding) about 30 minutes. If you have Philips screwdriver, 13mm socket and 5mm hex key you can do it too. If there is interest, I can post detailed writeup.
So order your Oberon 29mm slave (best bang for the money, very high quality - UK made - and good engineering) and spend 1/2 hour getting acquainted with your bike. Your left hand will feel immediate relief.
Hey Bohdan, would you mind doing a detailed writeup on the clutch slave? I've been wanting to order one but not completely sure how to go about swapping & bleeding. Thank you very much! :D
 

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You will need:
- 5mm hex allen key for slave screws
- 13mm socket or open wrench, 8 mm wrench for bleed nipple
- Phillips screwdriver for fluid reservoir lid screws
- 1/4 bottle of DOT4 fluid, length of 5/16OD/3/16ID clear vinyl tubing for bleeding (ACE hardware) and plastic container for spent fluid, some white lithium grease, MixMizer plastic syringe ($3-4 at WalMart)
- paper shop towels, piece of aluminum cooking foil

Here is step by step:
- put bike on rear stand if you can (easier access)
- remove rubber cover from nipple on slave (take it out completely)
- loosen 3 screws fastening slave (5mm allen), do not remove yet
- with piece of paper towel around base of banjo bolt to catch leak, loosen the banjo bolt
- remove 3 fastening bolts, pull slave straight out. Wrap in towel, then piece of foil to hold and catch possible spill (shouldn't happen, just in case)
- hang wrapped slave on frame, do not remove banjo bolt and line yet
- clean clutch rod from old dirty grease, apply thin coat of new grease to it
- slide new slave right on (comes preassembled) and fasten with 3 screws. You can reuse original ones or new from set - I used new.
- fill slave with fluid through top opening - use plastic syringe with piece of tubing to pull fluid from container, remove tubing and slowly fill slave
- unscrew banjo bolt from OEM slave, use provided copper washers from set to replace original and quickly screw it into new slave. If you do it fast you should not spill any fluid. Wipe of any spill immediately from any bike part.
- now you need to bleed it. Put clear tubing on nipple - should go tight expanding while forced on, sealing connection. Apply white grease to bottom of nipple to seal threads when you loosen it for bleeding.
- open handlebar reservoir - remove 3 screws from lid, pull it up with diaphragm transferring immediately to paper towel to avoid any drop of fluid to be spilled. Bike on stand will have reservoir in better position.
- remove all original, murky fluid from reservoir - use syringe. Dry off inside with paper towel, so old fluid is only in bottom connection. Fill it with new fluid, avoid spill (creating kind of catch basin from aluminum foil helps to protect bike).
- put lower end of tubing attached to slave nipple into plastic container. Loosen nipple quarter turn, pull clutch in, close the nipple. You should see fluid with few bubbles of air coming out in tubing. Repeat until air is gone and clear fluid comes out, then few times more to be sure. If you done it correctly, 6-7 times will be enough.
- fill the reservoir 2mm above low level mark, replace lid, screw it down.
- tighten nipple, clean grease base, put the rubber cover on.
- you're done. Go for a ride, enjoy new lighter clutch.

Time from start to finish - approx 20 min. If you have purchase stuff for bleeding, you will keep it for future brake bleeding.
 

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I put a yoyodyne on today and its loads better. Very happy with this mod!!
 

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You will need:
- 5mm hex allen key for slave screws
- 13mm socket or open wrench, 8 mm wrench for bleed nipple
- Phillips screwdriver for fluid reservoir lid screws
- 1/4 bottle of DOT4 fluid, length of 5/16OD/3/16ID clear vinyl tubing for bleeding (ACE hardware) and plastic container for spent fluid, some white lithium grease, MixMizer plastic syringe ($3-4 at WalMart)
- paper shop towels, piece of aluminum cooking foil

Here is step by step:
- put bike on rear stand if you can (easier access)
- remove rubber cover from nipple on slave (take it out completely)
- loosen 3 screws fastening slave (5mm allen), do not remove yet
- with piece of paper towel around base of banjo bolt to catch leak, loosen the banjo bolt
- remove 3 fastening bolts, pull slave straight out. Wrap in towel, then piece of foil to hold and catch possible spill (shouldn't happen, just in case)
- hang wrapped slave on frame, do not remove banjo bolt and line yet
- clean clutch rod from old dirty grease, apply thin coat of new grease to it
- slide new slave right on (comes preassembled) and fasten with 3 screws. You can reuse original ones or new from set - I used new.
- fill slave with fluid through top opening - use plastic syringe with piece of tubing to pull fluid from container, remove tubing and slowly fill slave
- unscrew banjo bolt from OEM slave, use provided copper washers from set to replace original and quickly screw it into new slave. If you do it fast you should not spill any fluid. Wipe of any spill immediately from any bike part.
- now you need to bleed it. Put clear tubing on nipple - should go tight expanding while forced on, sealing connection. Apply white grease to bottom of nipple to seal threads when you loosen it for bleeding.
- open handlebar reservoir - remove 3 screws from lid, pull it up with diaphragm transferring immediately to paper towel to avoid any drop of fluid to be spilled. Bike on stand will have reservoir in better position.
- remove all original, murky fluid from reservoir - use syringe. Dry off inside with paper towel, so old fluid is only in bottom connection. Fill it with new fluid, avoid spill (creating kind of catch basin from aluminum foil helps to protect bike).
- put lower end of tubing attached to slave nipple into plastic container. Loosen nipple quarter turn, pull clutch in, close the nipple. You should see fluid with few bubbles of air coming out in tubing. Repeat until air is gone and clear fluid comes out, then few times more to be sure. If you done it correctly, 6-7 times will be enough.
- fill the reservoir 2mm above low level mark, replace lid, screw it down.
- tighten nipple, clean grease base, put the rubber cover on.
- you're done. Go for a ride, enjoy new lighter clutch.

Time from start to finish - approx 20 min. If you have purchase stuff for bleeding, you will keep it for future brake bleeding.

sorry for the late reply i've been on vacation. Thanks so much for posting that Bohdan, I really appreciate it!
 

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Just a footnote to bohdan's good instructions: I only needed fluid to fill the slave; didn't bleed the whole thing.
 
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