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So order the X27-689. The motors are $12 each.
FYI that I spoke to Pamela at ISM and they no longer stock the X27-689 and have no plans to have any more manufactured (as she put it). They do still have the previous generation X25-689 which is what I bought. They are $10/each. The differences are minor and total drop-in replacement between them, so its internal differences I won't even notice.

Link to X25 vs. X27 diferences

I am going to replace both, even though my tach is the only one showing issues. I'll follow your instructions and report back in a week or two when I have it done.
 

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I completed this tonight. Took me about 1 hour total. I will say, this is not for the faint of heart.

So here was my problem. My tach would work perfectly but after a while riding it would set its zero at say 6k or 8k so that when I was really at 4k it showed 10k.

The process is exactly as you have described. Some things I will say.

Use a high quality soldering iron. I used a Weller WESD51. I set it about 600 degrees. Pulling each motor off takes patience. Work one lead, pull. Work another, pull. Keep Doin all 4 and slowly they pull out. I did use a solder "whick" to pull some off. When i put the new motors in I put a tinnnnny bit of Flux on each area then heated and put the motors in using even pressure behind. They went in smooth.

If you have this issue and live in SoCal and want assistance. I'm down to help and am in north county San Diego. Just throwing it out there

ImageUploadedByMotorcycle1378263111.698836.jpg


Sent from Motorcycle.com App
 

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Great instructions Sea2sky. I linked to your post for a member the SS section who wanted to know how to dismantle his gauges.
 

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Hey guys great post. I know its a little old now but where can i find the motors these days any one have any ideas. I also need the original housing and several parts the crystal displays and the speedo white mph plastic, to repair my cluster after accident any ideas, any help greatly appreciated.
 

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Need a Sport Classic Speedo needle

Hi to all, excellent thread with info. My Sport 1000 broke it s Speedo needle, possibly due to vibration? I tried to fit needles from a Monster instrument but they are different with shorter center axis. Does anybody know how can i acquire a stock needle for the instrument, or a pair of needles that actually fiτ my Tacho and Speedo?
 
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Thank you for the links, I ve managed to do micro-surgery and repair the needle for the time being , but i don t know how long it will last, I ll try to order.
 

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Thought I would chime in here. My stepper motors work fine but I had both of my needles break off - the top part of the needle broke cleanly off the stem that goes down to the motor. It may have been caused by vibration since the instruments on my race bike are solid-mounted to an aftermarket fairing stay (eliminates the factory rubber mounting on the 2006 Sport 1000). Or, may have been due to heat since the bike was out in full sun over a very hot race weekend, rather than being under the canopy as usual. Both needles broke off during the same track session.

I took the gauges apart following the excellent instructions and photos in this thread. I wasn't able to just pull the needle stems off the motor shafts though - I had to pry them off with a flathead screwdriver between the motor and the end of the needle stem.

I glued the stems back onto the needles with 2-part expoxy (JB Weld PlasticBonder). Seems really strong but we will see how they hold up. Will report back if they fail again.

One part of the instructions I thought weren't so clear - the bit about gauge calibration. When you turn the needles, there is a phase where you are just moving the stepper motor (soft clicks) and a phase where you are at the end of the motor range but still moving the needles (hard clicks). Only the hard clicks affect the calibration. If you just set the needles to zero by moving them within the normal motor range they will end up right back where they started when you cycle the key. You have to move them past that range (either direction) into the hard click phase to alter the needle starting point.
 

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This is great ! I've had my tacho defunct for 2 years now.
Maybe I'll go this route, but I was checking if it was possible to put a big analog tacho with a little digital speedo in it on these bikes.
Anyone ? What brands ? Where to buy them ?
Hi de Koener,

whenever you plan to switch to other gauges, be aware that the relay for the winkers is within the OEM Gauge, so even if you have removed the immobilizer (1. step, otherwise no joy) and pull the instruments the winkers will stopp blinking. As I am in the process to connect a AIM MXL Strada digital dash, thats only one of the difficulties...

Best,
Andreas
 

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Thanks for this great thread.

Do anyone know if theres a "chematic" avilable for the internals on the Instrument cluster/motherboard.?

Because I have a SuperSport 1000 -03 where 2 LED diods is not working.
I bought new ones to replace them.. but when opening up the housing I can see that there is missing a resistance as well :-(

Previous owner must have opened it up to try to fix and lost it some how.

983691

983692
 

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I just purchased a 2006 Sport Classic. I had an intermittent tach needle that would fluctuate upon power up, and during riding. It was not a wiring issue, and the bike would run fine. I did a little research on here, but did not really find a solution – so I came up with one.

In my case, the stepper motors were at fault. This seems to be the common problem with these bikes. Some of the members have sent in the instrument clusters to Mr. Whizard. This seems to be a great option, if you are not able to do a little soldering. Average repair price is around $260.

My option – replace the motors myself. The motors are manufactured by Switech / Juken. The model number you will see on the back of the motors is X15-689. There are also some other numbers, but these are just tracking numbers. X15 symbolizes the size and style (front mount). The 689 symbolizes the type and electronic portion. Switech doesn't make the X15 anymore, but have no fear, the X25 and X27 are fully compatible. So order the X27-689. The motors are $12 each. I recommend replacing both the speedometer and tachometer motors at the same time.

How to do this (if you can’t do any of these steps without pictures, send the cluster in):
  • Pull your instrument cluster off the bike.
  • Disassemble the outer housing.
  • Carefully pry the needles off the motor stems.
  • Pull off the white front gauge face.
  • Remove the circuit board from the outer housing.
  • You will see two white stepper motors on the back of the board (pictured).
  • Un-solder the 4 connections for each motor.
  • Drop in the two new motors, and solder them in place.
  • Re-assemble the unit, except the front glass bezel. The white face should be on. Loosely put on the two needles.
  • Connect the cluster to the bike.
  • Turn the bike on (don’t start) – the needles should do a sweep.
  • Rotate the needles counter-clockwise until they both line up with zero.
  • Repeat turning the bike on and aligning the needles until proper.
  • Firmly push the needles in place (but not too deep so they don’t turn).
  • Finish assembling the gauge cluster.
  • Install cluster.
  • Done, cost = $24.
Very Cool, Will have to do this, Needles really bugging me now.
 
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