Ducati.ms - The Ultimate Ducati Forum banner

1 - 20 of 33 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I just purchased a 2006 Sport Classic. I had an intermittent tach needle that would fluctuate upon power up, and during riding. It was not a wiring issue, and the bike would run fine. I did a little research on here, but did not really find a solution – so I came up with one.

In my case, the stepper motors were at fault. This seems to be the common problem with these bikes. Some of the members have sent in the instrument clusters to Mr. Whizard. This seems to be a great option, if you are not able to do a little soldering. Average repair price is around $260.

My option – replace the motors myself. The motors are manufactured by Switech / Juken. The model number you will see on the back of the motors is X15-689. There are also some other numbers, but these are just tracking numbers. X15 symbolizes the size and style (front mount). The 689 symbolizes the type and electronic portion. Switech doesn't make the X15 anymore, but have no fear, the X25 and X27 are fully compatible. So order the X27-689. The motors are $12 each. I recommend replacing both the speedometer and tachometer motors at the same time.

How to do this (if you can’t do any of these steps without pictures, send the cluster in):
- Pull your instrument cluster off the bike.
- Disassemble the outer housing.
- Carefully pry the needles off the motor stems.
- Pull off the white front gauge face.
- Remove the circuit board from the outer housing.
- You will see two white stepper motors on the back of the board (pictured).
- Un-solder the 4 connections for each motor.
- Drop in the two new motors, and solder them in place.
- Re-assemble the unit, except the front glass bezel. The white face should be on. Loosely put on the two needles.
- Connect the cluster to the bike.
- Turn the bike on (don’t start) – the needles should do a sweep.
- Rotate the needles counter-clockwise until they both line up with zero.
- Repeat turning the bike on and aligning the needles until proper.
- Firmly push the needles in place (but not too deep so they don’t turn).
- Finish assembling the gauge cluster.
- Install cluster.
- Done, cost = $24.
 

Attachments

·
Administrator
Joined
·
12,249 Posts
I will copy and paste this in the Sport Classic forum here, I am sure everyone will appreciate this.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
821 Posts
Oh awesome! When I had my tach problem (I think I was the first to have it fixed) I looked around for a replacement stepper motor for hours, but had no idea where to find one.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,887 Posts
A definite sticky! Nice work. Thank you so much for tackling this :)

Pictures are always nice but a link to where you got the motors would be very helpful.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Stepper Motors

I wasn't sure if I was allowed to post the distributor, and contact info on here. There is only one distributor in the US. They were friendly and helpful. They sold to the public (me), and sold me two. They made it to Canada in about a week.

I could do a full write up with pictures, but figured if you weren't comfortable soldering and pulling apart gauges in the first place, pictures wouldn't likely help you. If there was doubt, sending in the gauges seemed prudent.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,887 Posts
I wasn't sure if I was allowed to post the distributor, and contact info on here. There is only one distributor in the US. They were friendly and helpful. They sold to the public (me), and sold me two. They made it to Canada in about a week.
You can post the distributor. We've done it for the electrical plugs and R/R units and haven't been slapped yet.

I could do a full write up with pictures, but figured if you weren't comfortable soldering and pulling apart gauges in the first place, pictures wouldn't likely help you. If there was doubt, sending in the gauges seemed prudent.
You don't understand. As an example, in the very distant past I've pulled the gauge cluster of my Jetta multiple times for face changes, needle changes, lighting changes, and with the cost to replace it at the time I was never really comfortable doing it. But the pictures I took showing how to do it let others figure out if they could do it or not. I wasn't comfortable changing the belts on my bike but due to others explaining what they did, what to expect, and the pictures/videos by others I was able to gauge the level of work involved and figured I could do it (and I did...it was easier than I expected). I don't have the skills, tools, TIME, nor materials to build a Veyron but boy do I sure do love to watch how it's made! :)

You briefly explained what you did and that's a big help as you entered uncharted territory for us. Just sayin' that more pictures would've been nice, that's all.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Your detailed solution

Here is the full and detailed instruction of how to replace your instrument stepper motors. This has worked for me after several rides.


The motors are manufactured by Switech / Juken. The model number you will see on the back of the motors is X15-689. There are also some other numbers, but these are just tracking numbers. X15 symbolizes the size and style (front mount). The 689 symbolizes the type and electronic portion. Switech doesn't make the X15 anymore, but have no fear, the X25 and X27 are fully compatible. So order the X27-689. The motors are $12 each. I recommend replacing both the speedometer and tachometer motors at the same time (order at least 2 motors).

The motors are available from Innovative Sales & Marketing. They are located out of Alabama. ISM - Innovative Sales & Marketing They were friendly and helpful. They seem willing to sell to individuals, in small quantities. They are the only North American distributor for a direct Switech replacement.

How to do this:

1) Use a 6mm hex wrench to pull off the two bolts at the front of the instrument cluster (pic 1).
2) Unplug the 26 pin connector at the back of the instrument cluster (pic 2).
3) Unscrew the 7 screws with a phillips screwdriver (pic 3).
4) Pull off the black rear cover. It may be little sticky to pull off because of the water seal, but it will slowly come off. It is not glued on (pic 4)
5) You will see 2 tabs on both sides of the instrument cluster (4 clips total). Carefully pull these tabs back, and remove the electronic portion from the chrome and glass front face (pic 5).
6) You should now have three different components (pic 6).
7) Flip over the cluster. You will see your white gauge face, and the two needles. We will need to carefully pull up on the base of the needle - do not pull up on the clear part of the needle (pic 7).
8) The needle should come off as one piece, but there are three parts to it. No worries if you take it off the cluster in three pieces (pic 8). READ Step 9 before you pull off the needles.
9) Once the needles ar off, there will still be a small black component holding down the white gauge face. This has two tabs holding it down, but is easy to pull up one side at a time. This part does not come off with the needle (pic 9).
10) Once the gauge face is pulled off the cluster, you should see a white component (pic 10).
11) Flip over the electronic portion. Remove the 2 screws (pic 11).
12) There are 4 tabs holding down the circuit board. Pull these back and remove the circuit board from the white plastic backing (pic 12).
13) The two white circular pieces are your stepper motors. I suggest you replace them in pairs, to avoid having to repeat all this in the future (pic 13).
14) There are 4 solder points for each motor. Be sure to keep your soldering temperatures down to avoid damaging other nearby components. A solder bulb may help you remove the solder as you heat it (pic 14). One you have removed both motors, drop in the new X27-689 motors, and solder them in place.

Of course, to finish this install, reverse the steps (but stop at step 6). Install everything, except the front glass and chrome bezel. Do not push the needles down too hard, or they will not turn. You may also want to put a dab of weak glue in the needle shaft, as I found the tach needle wants to slip after I have replaced it (the speedo held fine, but the tach needle is anything but smooth like the speed).

You will need to calibrate the gauges. This is actually pretty easy. With the needles installed, connect the power harness to the cluster. Turn on the bike (but do not start). The gauges will do a sweep, but likely not come back and sit at 0. So, turn the needles CLOCKWISE, until the needles point closer to 0. Turn the bike off. Turn the bike back on and watch the needles sweep and return closer to zero this time (likely still not sitting perfectly at zero). Repeat until the needles com to rest at 0 after they sweep.

Re-install the front bezel, and finish installing on the bike. Hint: There is a foam/rubber gasket that seals between the front and rear housing. I found it easier to put the gasket in the black back housing first (in the groove), and then put on the front housing.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Part 2 - Administrator help required

Here are the remaining pictures - I was limited to 10 pictures in the previous post. Also - can you embed them in the procedures? I couldn't seem to. The pictures are in order of the steps.

Hope this helps the community!
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,813 Posts
This is great ! I've had my tacho defunct for 2 years now.
Maybe I'll go this route, but I was checking if it was possible to put a big analog tacho with a little digital speedo in it on these bikes.
Anyone ? What brands ? Where to buy them ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Great instructions/post.
The stepper motors were replaced but the speedometer behaves the same way before and after the replacement. It dances around and stops where ever it feels like it.
Anyone got ideas?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
821 Posts
I believe the speedometer goes straight out the plug to a sensor that picks up the steel brake rotor (or sprocket, i'm too lazy to look for sure) bolts. So your sensor/wiring might be messed up
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
I believe the speedometer goes straight out the plug to a sensor that picks up the steel brake rotor (or sprocket, i'm too lazy to look for sure) bolts. So your sensor/wiring might be messed up
I would agree with arbakken, it seem more of a pickup issue, and is not the cluster.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,088 Posts
This is great ! I've had my tacho defunct for 2 years now.
Maybe I'll go this route, but I was checking if it was possible to put a big analog tacho with a little digital speedo in it on these bikes.
Anyone ? What brands ? Where to buy them ?
Thinking you mean something like this?

Analogdrehzahlmesser motoscope classic

You'd have to come up with a mounting solution but others have done it. There was a thread somewhere a while back where someone was trying to make one to sell, but I don't know what happened with that...
 
1 - 20 of 33 Posts
Top