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Discussion Starter #1
Took out the Dremel to cut the fairing (alot) in order to have the high bar kit slid up to its highest position. Then used rubber edging to trim off where I cut. Had to ditch the stock fairing support bar and I plan to have a new one made but to attach at the rear edge of the fairing (the edge of the fairing closest to the gas tank). I'm very happy with the result. In addition to the higher bar position, I've found the steering to be substantially improved, particularly when making 90 degree low speed turns. With the stock bars, the bike never felt comfortable making such low speed sharp turns. Now it's fine.
 

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I am Hailwood!
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51 Posts
Very clean job! I have an unfaired model with the risers factory fitted are the lower bars really that much more uncomfortable?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Sport 1000S bars

Let me sum up the stock riding position this way, which is a quote from a review of this model bike, "Part of the authentic European 1970s sportbike experience is sadistic clip-on placement".
 

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Do you find that you throtlte cables are stretched with the bars that high?
 

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The cut out with the tall windscreen looks, what can I say :think:, sexy.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
throttle cables

not at all. the dealer (who put the risers on) said the throttle cables are the same length on the monoposto and biposto sportclassics. I don't know if that's correct, but I know that my bars turn lock to lock and the cables don't pull whatsoever.
 

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:eek::eek::eek::eek::eek:
 

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Where would we be without the Dremel. Nice haircut :D
 

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Discussion Starter #12
DesmosiDremel

some more pics, in case anyone wants to copy. I was inspired by other posts that showed partial fairing cuts, so thanks to those other posters.
I bought the rubber edging from www.msmaster.com. It is
8507K65 NEOPRENE RUBBER EDGE TRIM, 1/8" OPENING, 1/4" INSIDE DEPTH, 10' LENGTH http://www.mcmaster.com/#8510k16/=1wmoz6
But the dremel sanding wheel and a red Sharpie marker actually made a clean enough cut that I could have left the rubber edging off.
 

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how is the support on the fairing with the upper support bracket gone?

maybe want to forward a shipping address to give mine a nip/tuck?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
fairing support

The bike is ridable without the fairing support, but likely not at high speeds. I cut quite a bit off the fairing obviously, so it has far less structural strength than befoe the Dremel got to it. And at any speed the windscreen vibrates annoyingly without the support bar, so I am going to make a new support bracket that will attach to the fairing at a different point that the stock support bar. My plan is for the bar to attach to the fairing at the point where the last Torx screw attaches the windscreen to the fairing, so I won't have to drill any more holes. This will be basically the same support bar arrangement as an F1 has. I don't use the stock mirrors, so I don't need a support bar at the mirror attachment point, which is the stock set up.

So I just need to get some aluminum (or something) tubing with the same outside diameter that the stock support bar has at the point it goes through the central clamp (just over 1/2") and then make a couple of bends, and figure out how to attach the tubing to the fairing. I'll post some pics when it's all done.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
amount of cutting

Thanks. Using a Dremel is like eating potato chips; you just can't stop. Actually, it was the bar controls that needed the clearance for the most part at max lock, not so much the reservoirs. But relocating the reservoirs might (might) allow me to use the stock support bar. Not sure about that, but I'm committed to making a new support bar and I'll post pics when done.
However, I was incorrect about the throttle cable length not being an issue as I noticed recently that at max left turn (near full lock), the cable does pull enough to actually turn the throttle a bit. Not that I'd ever turn the bar that much when riding, but I don't want to damage the cable either when moving the bike around in the garage. I think I'm first going to try backing out the steering-stop screw to see if that is a simple way to keep from pulling on the throttle cables too much, or if not, then I'll replace the throttle cable with a longer one. Is the most popular fix to buy the SC biposto cable, or the GT 1000 cable? I've seen mention of both I think.
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #18
long ride, better, but room for improvement.

Took my first long ride with the new higher-bar setup (over 2 hours). Big difference in comfort (for the better), but I'm now sure that a large part of the numbness in my hands problem is from the buzz/vibration in the bars. So I just ordered a set of these Manic Salamander big-dog bar end weights so I'll see how those help (or don't).
http://www.manicsalamander.com/bar_end_weight_hollow_mirror.htm

I will also replace grips with something thicker. I'd appreciate any suggestions on thicker grips. Thanks
 

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don't go for the Rizoma sport grips. They're fatter and bling, but pass through more vibration. Something which didn't occur to me as I destroyed the stock grips during removal....
 

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I must be the only one who thinks it looks like hell. :eek::eek::eek:

I guess you couldn't find any aftermarket (Speedy Moto, Cycle Cat, etc.) adjustable risers that would fit without butchering the fairing?

I must also be the only middle aged rider who finds the Sport 1000 riding position comfortable. I just lay my belly on the tank and relax my arms. No shoulder, arm, wrist or back pain.

Different strokes for different folks, I guess.
 
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