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jadoca said:
Bingo. There is really no need to lube O ring chains. If they get wet just spray and wipe a little WD. Thats it.

Regards,
I like it. Never have to worry about flinging this way!!
 

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Despite any modern O/X-ring chain being internally greased, you should still have some lube on the chain<->sprocket interface, otherwise you will see increased sprocket wear. You don't need a lot of lube, but the chain rollers and sprockets should have a thin layer of lube available...and not run totally dry. YMMV. ;)
 

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OldBaldy said:
Despite any modern O/X-ring chain being internally greased, you should still have some lube on the chain<->sprocket interface, otherwise you will see increased sprocket wear. You don't need a lot of lube, but the chain rollers and sprockets should have a thin layer of lube available...and not run totally dry. YMMV. ;)
Cool
 

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brianmdavis said:
I like it. Never have to worry about flinging this way!!
I've tried all kinds of specific chain lubes and waxes in the past and they all suck in one way or another!

For over a year now, I've been using Dupont Teflon Lube. It's not motorcycle specific and you can get it cheaply at any Loew's store (great to know if you need some lube on a road trip)! Check out this 'webBikeWorld' review of the stuff...

http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/motorcycle-chain-lube/dupont-teflon-chain-lube.htm

Every now and again, I use WD-40 on a rag to wipe any crap off the chain, then I spray the Dupont Lube on the rollers, holding a rag under the chain to catch the over spray and to wipe off any excess. The stuff dries very quickly and leaves a Teflon coating on the rollers that absolutely doesn't fling.

That's it folks. Clean sprockets, clean wheel and a sparkling gold chain that lasts forever. :D
 

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Chuckracer said:
I'm now with you, Hank. I'm going that route.

I used to use Chainwax, and In My Opinion, it doesn't lube anything. I don't like it.

Course, I don't like anything anymore, soo...whatever, right? :D

If I do anything, it will be the Scottoiler...that looks to be the ticket.
I'm sorry Chuck, I don't get it. You like Hank's solution so that you don't have an attractor for dirt, grime, etc, yet you want to add a device that will puke oil on the chain which will act as an attractor of dirt, grime, etc?

I dunno - I had an '82 Lowrider that used a total loss oil recovery system :D by puking oil out of the mainshaft bushing onto the chain. That was a God awful mess ALL the time. As for myself I wouldn't go back to that method.

I would have thought you would be in the OldBaldy camp. (My preferred method, its really just a matter of keeping the chain clean - wipe down after a ride, then a light spritz of your preferred lube)

oldbaldy said:
Despite any modern O/X-ring chain being internally greased, you should still have some lube on the chain<->sprocket interface, otherwise you will see increased sprocket wear. You don't need a lot of lube, but the chain rollers and sprockets should have a thin layer of lube available...and not run totally dry. YMMV. ;)
And - I am sure you still like playing ;)

- john
 

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Duc4S said:
You like Hank's solution so that you don't have an attractor for dirt, grime, etc...
Your words, not mine. I like Hanks solution because there will be no more nasty chain lube all over the back of my bike. I'm lazy, ya see. I don't spend the hours many here do cleaning their bikes.:sleep:

Duc4S said:
...yet you want to add a device that will puke oil on the chain which will act as an attractor of dirt, grime, etc?
Did you check DukeDesmo's post and pics of his ScottOiler set-up? Heck, it's cleaner than my bike was by a long shot!;)

Duc4S said:
And - I am sure you still like playing ;)

- john

He he he...yeah...ya got me there!:D
 

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OldBaldy said:
Despite any modern O/X-ring chain being internally greased, you should still have some lube on the chain<->sprocket interface, otherwise you will see increased sprocket wear.
There's a pin, bushing, and roller which wear. And of course the side plates, o-rings, and sprockets.

The lubricant is sealed by the o-ring only where the pin and bushing make contact. The roller is rotating on the bushing and is not lubricated - it's out in the open with the only lubricant being the stuff YOU put on it.

Some might argue the rollers and sprockets need no lubricant. Not me.

The rollers rotate on the bushings and smash into the sprockets. You can hear it whenever a chain-driven motorcycle goes by. It's loud because there's a lot of force at that contact point! A high pressure lubricant is needed at that very high load interface.

Zinc is a good high pressure lubricant, and Bel Ray Super Clean Chain Lube is zinc. And it doesn't fling off. Works great.
 

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+1 for Bel Ray Super Clean. I tried quite a few before I settled on that. No fling at all, even if you don't wipe after applying. Goes on like spray paint, then dries. I only use steel sprockets (never Al), but anyway I have had no problems with unusual wear.

I DID have a chain partially fail though - one of the side plates just snapped. Hard to see how the lube could be to blame for that.
 

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COSTCO has a really good degreaser that comes in a one gallon container
with an attached spray bottle. A 50/50 mix with water works best at degreasing. Chain lube, the one I use is Belray Super Clean. It works great,
if applied properly and you may get just a few spots on your wheels. It is Zinc based and works excellant on both dirt and street.
 

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ST4R said:
There's a pin, bushing, and roller which wear. And of course the side plates, o-rings, and sprockets.

The lubricant is sealed by the o-ring only where the pin and bushing make contact. The roller is rotating on the bushing and is not lubricated - it's out in the open with the only lubricant being the stuff YOU put on it.

Some might argue the rollers and sprockets need no lubricant. Not me.

The rollers rotate on the bushings and smash into the sprockets. You can hear it whenever a chain-driven motorcycle goes by. It's loud because there's a lot of force at that contact point! A high pressure lubricant is needed at that very high load interface.

Zinc is a good high pressure lubricant, and Bel Ray Super Clean Chain Lube is zinc. And it doesn't fling off. Works great.
This sounds like it might be worth my $5.00. . .

Available everywhere?

Thanks in advance!

- john
 

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I get it at the local cycle shop.

Here's a pretty good article.

MC: If an O-ring chain lube doesn't need to get lubricant past the O-rings and inside the chain, what does it do for the chain then?

PJH: It keeps the chain from rusting, it lubricates the O-ring itself and it does provide some cushion effect between the chain roller and the sprocket, which reduces wear on the sprockets and increases the chain's life.
 

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You know, I've been using this chain cleaning system for years and it really works. I use plain 'ol kerosene with it, and the chain looks like brand new in under 5 minutes. Not cheap but if you want a clean chain this is one good way to get it. A little Bel Ray Super Clean just sprayed-on and away you go!

$45 from these people. Might be less expensive elsewhere.
 

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I've been using the old Kettenmax for some time now with great results on the VFR. I've upgraded to the ST4s and I've noticed that they've upgraded the Kettenmax to a newer design. Does anyone have any experience with the newer more flexible design?

Welcome! - KettenMax
 

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Another vote for the Dupont Teflon dry wax lube. I used to use WD40 to clean the chain, but I found that lube doesn't stick very well to the rollers, so now I use Motorex chain cleaner. Don't forget to clean the sprocket teeth. I always lube at the end of a ride and then park it over night. No fling.
 

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Do what I do.
Put a little dab in your hand.
rub on very thinly.

Works charms, and she will be screamin!

And no flingin!
Or friction!
 
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