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Discussion Starter #1
bike worked great in morning when i rode to work ( in heavy rain ) . at end of day lights wouldn't work horn was out fuel pump didn't cycle and starter didn't crank . thought was dead battery but tested it and it is at full power , fuses are fine as well . only thing i can think of is a faulty ground somewhere but cant find anything .. any help on what i might be overlooking or missing would be greatly appreciated .

thanks in advance for any ideas
 

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Discussion Starter #3
i thought i did , unless there is something other then the 1 marked as a 30 amp main fuse. again not a mechanic so i could miss something very simple and not have a clue
 

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There are a couple of relays to check as well


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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2001 900SSie
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There are a couple of relays to check as well


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I can help the OP as you are correct about the relays.

Now that Photobucket want to charge for third party image hosting I have switched, but have not uploaded the wiring diagram as yet.
Also my dropbox account was hammered with downloads and they basically cut off urls to my step by step guide.

There are two relays next to the ECU. The closet relay is the injection relay and the other (furthest) is the master relay.

From your symptoms of no lights etc. there is an issue with the master relay either not getting a signal/power to the coil to close or not getting power to the relay power contacts.

Quick guide.
Lift the tank. Put your finger on top of the master relay. Turn the key on as normal and if you do not feel the click, then there is an issue with the relay or the signal (wiring) to the relay coil.
Swap the relays, as they are the same and repeat the finger test.

If both no click = wiring to the coil.
If both click but still no headlight = issue with power from or to the relay contacts.

A multimeter is invaluable, even the cheapest crap one.

There are 4 terminals on the relay and if you pull it out then are marked as 30, 87, 86 and 85.
30 is connected to the battery via fuse on the wiring diagram marked 1 - 9 which is always powered (battery plus) irrespective of key position.
87 is the power/voltage to the rest of the bike if the relay is functioning correctly.
86 on the wiring diagram is the relay coil ground.
85 is the terminal to the coil that gets the close the relay signal to make it energise.

With a multimeter set on 20 Volts DC.
Poke the red "probe" into the socket corresponding to 30 and the black probe onto the battery negative terminal.
If you do not measure battery voltage, nominally 12V, then the problem is "upstream" of that to battery positive.

If you do not have a multimeter then fear not as there is a quick way to test - I have done this on my bike, to make sure I would not give bad advice.

DO NOT do anything else apart from this. To be really safe, make sure the bike is in neutral, which is tested by rolling the bike physically (as you have no neutral light)
Grab a piece of wire or even some pin nose pliers and connect between terminals 30 and 87. If you now have lights, the power circuit is good.
This would then indicate the really is stuffed or not getting 12 Volts across terminals 85 and 86.

A multimeter is again really handy here.
With the probes in socket terminals 85 and 86 with the key on you should measure about 12V.
If you do not have a multimeter then you can test the relay coil by connecting the relay terminal 86, not socket, to battery negative and relay terminal 85 to battery positive.
Be careful here so you do not short the battery by accidentally touching the wires together.
It should click if the relay coil is OK. If it is OK, then there is a problem with either the ground from relay socket terminal 86 to ground/battery negative or upstream of socket terminal 85 not getting 12V or so.
Again there is a way! You can use a 12V bulb (even using a turn/indicator with the wires) to connect across socket terminals 85 and 86.
If all is good, the the bulb will light up.
If it does not light up the it could be ground or signal.

This is all key on.
To test ground, leave one terminal of the bulb connected to socket terminal 85 and a lead (wire) from the other terminal of the bulb direct to battery negative.
If it now lights up, then there is a problem between socket terminal 86 and battery negative.
If it does not light up, then you need to test the opposite.
Connect the bulb to socket terminal 86 and the other terminal of the bulb to battery positive.
If it now lights up then there is a problem in the connections/switches from battery positive to terminal 85.

Personally I would buy a cheap multimeter for even less than dollars that you could count on your fingers.
They are invaluable for measuring where voltage stops and then resistance for corrosion/crap connections/wires and of course fuses.
I never trust visual inspection of fuses and always second check with a multimeter on the lowest resistance scale.

I might make a Youtube video one day, but then you would all see my beer gut and grey hair, plus my messy shed!

I will try to upload full instructions somewhere with links.

Tracing electrical faults is not rocket science, just a bit of measuring and logic. Mmm this should be here but it is not.

The AO models (no side/kick stand) are slightly different, but the master relay control is exactly the same test method.
If you have lights, as in good master relay, then the trouble shooting and wiring is slightly different.

PM if you want/need more info as in diagrams etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
ok im bad at mechanical things but the info and details here are so well written even i can do this ... thank you both for the info ... will get to work on it right away . the blinker relay is only thing making a clicking sound , will be buying a multi-meter soon for rest of the checks
 

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the blinker relay is only thing making a clicking sound , will be buying a multi-meter soon for rest of the checks
Are you sure of that because the blinker control is powered after the master relay has closed and powered via a fuse.
Also it would not be clicking if the blinker switch on the left handlebar is in the centre position.
It is a 3 pin device and no idea where it is.

If one of the two relays beside the ECU (to the left) are clicking then it could be that the battery is stuffed or there is a high resistance somewhere in battery positive or negative (ground) or insufficient voltage to the coil terminals 85 and 86 to energise the relay.

A multimeter is your best friend when finding electrical faults and a heap safer than dangling wires around the place.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
it was hanging under the head light , only thing i heard clicking and it is same size as the relay that's next to the rectifier and battery but doesnt have all the protection around the actual relay . will attach photos asap
 

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Well I just learnt something.
The models with the A0 ECU and no side/kick stand switch have some differences in component placement.

That yellow device is an absolutely standard ISO mini relay and is the same as the relay beside the ECU.
They are super common and should be available in any decent auto store and possibly an electrical/electronics shop like Tandy, although I don't know if Tandy still exists.

Treat that as the master relay from my earlier instructions.
As it is clicking there is something wrong around there as there is insufficient voltage to keep the relay closed.
As the bike was OK until you encountered rain, I expect there could be corrosion.

Unplug that relay and do a visual inspection and if the wiring looks OK, swap the relays as a first test, then proceed with my instructions.

From the images there is a lot of oxidation on the ECU and regulator. On the ECU is weirdest as that is well protected.
Not being critical, but I would give it a good clean as that muck can help hold water/moisture which can provide an electrical conduction path.
 

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How did you go with the suggestions?
 
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