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Discussion Starter #1
I am going to be switching to a Group V Poly Ester based engine oil once my engine is fully broken in. Problem is, I'm not sure when that will be lol.

The manufacturer guidelines state NOT to use their oil until the engine has achieved 3,000 initial miles so that all the components are broken in together properly as Group V Esters allow for hardly any wear.

Well that is great and all but I ride my 848 pretty hard thus I kinda want to explain just how I have treated the engine and get feedback as to if it is indeed broken in yet. I'm a firm believer in getting the rings seated and treating the engine how I will be riding it as soon as possible.

Progressively during the first 600 miles I kept the RPM as varied as possible leaving it in the same gears as much as I could to keep as much negative pressure as positive. As I put more miles on her I would go higher and higher on the RPMs. I never went over 6.5K-7K except for once when I hit 9K. Since my first service at 666 miles, I've been living in the higher RPMs and have hit max redline about half a dozen times. I now have about 1200 miles on it. Keep in mind that about 1000 of those miles have been high speed windy mountain roads and nothing else. Lots of 3rd gear riding between 6K-11K RPMs.

Even aside from the fact of the type of oil I'm going to be using, based on my riding, is this engine truely broken in yet? Or at what mileage would you consider it so?

Thanks!

Alex
 

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Are you talking about synthetic oil? If so I would go by their recommendations. Most engines aren't ready to use synthetic till after 5000 miles. I don't even use synthetic on my 08 cbr 1000 due to the oil burning Problems alot of people are having! She doesn't burn a drop. I do use full synthetic in my 999R but I started after 5000 miles.
 

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Just out of curiosity... did you drain the synthetic oil that shipped with it from the factory? Sounds like you've done well with the initial break-in. The key thing is to keep a load on the engine to seat the piston rings... that is where synthetics may cause problems with being "too slick". The other reason engine builders use regular oil for break-in is cost... They are breaking an engine in on a dyno, and the regular oil is cheaper to replace after 50-100mile, or few hours on the dyno.

True, the rest of the engine will continue to break-in over the next couple thousand miles; but the rings have already been set. It's safe to fill her up with your oil of choice and wring it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
No I never drained it, I think the factory fill only qualifies as a Group III oil so I'm not too worried about it preventing the engine from breaking it. I also have no idea what the dealership used at the 600 miles service but I know they wouldn't have used a Group IV or V that's for sure lol.

Ok cool so at this point I can count on the rings being bedded in now then? If so I'll just change over right now. I'm really interested in preventing as much wear as possible to the valvetrain and bearings starting at the soonest possible time. I'm pretty sure those components are broken in now as well.

Thanks! It's kind of tough for me because I've been in the world of HP cars the last 10 years or so and I know modern Chevy LS engines don't fully breakin and produce max power until ATLEAST 4,000 miles. There are 10 years of Dyno graphs to proove it. I just have no idea though on these modern bike engines.

Thanks!
 

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No I never drained it, I think the factory fill only qualifies as a Group III oil so I'm not too worried about it preventing the engine from breaking it. I also have no idea what the dealership used at the 600 miles service but I know they wouldn't have used a Group IV or V that's for sure lol.

Ok cool so at this point I can count on the rings being bedded in now then? If so I'll just change over right now. I'm really interested in preventing as much wear as possible to the valvetrain and bearings starting at the soonest possible time. I'm pretty sure those components are broken in now as well.

Thanks! It's kind of tough for me because I've been in the world of HP cars the last 10 years or so and I know modern Chevy LS engines don't fully breakin and produce max power until ATLEAST 4,000 miles. There are 10 years of Dyno graphs to proove it. I just have no idea though on these modern bike engines.

Thanks!
Hey what oil do you want to use? It states that you should use SHELL ADVANCE ULTRA 4.

So what oil manufacture are you thinking of?
 

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When I took possession of my new 848, I rode it like I stole it for around 800 miles and then threw in the V300 Motul and haven't looked back.

These motors are dyno'd 2 times at the factory. The first time is on a motor dyno where the motor is spun (without running it) to high RPM's to determine its soundness (oil pressure, compression, etc) Then the oil is drained and the motor is put in the bike. Once in the bike, its run on a dyno, to insure it works properly. So its not like the first time you start it is really the first time. By the time you get the bike, the bedding process has already started and all the customer has to do is ride it normally.

I've got almost 14,000 miles on my 848, doesn't burn a drop of oil and I will admit, it has gotten quicker over time. ;)



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Discussion Starter #9
Hey what oil do you want to use? It states that you should use SHELL ADVANCE ULTRA 4.

So what oil manufacture are you thinking of?
The Shell is not available here in the states from what I read plus its not like that's the best oil anyway, far from it. Shell is a Ducati sponsor you know lol. That's like saying you should always run Mobil 1 in your new Porsche forever just because it comes filled with it and a fancy Mobil 1 oil cap.

I will be using Redline 10w40 motorcycle oil, the new blend.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
When I took possession of my new 848, I rode it like I stole it for around 800 miles and then threw in the V300 Motul and haven't looked back.

These motors are dyno'd 2 times at the factory. The first time is on a motor dyno where the motor is spun (without running it) to high RPM's to determine its soundness (oil pressure, compression, etc) Then the oil is drained and the motor is put in the bike. Once in the bike, its run on a dyno, to insure it works properly. So its not like the first time you start it is really the first time. By the time you get the bike, the bedding process has already started and all the customer has to do is ride it normally.

I've got almost 14,000 miles on my 848, doesn't burn a drop of oil and I will admit, it has gotten quicker over time. ;)
Cool, that gives me confidence then! I've noticed over time my engine sounds different and has more power as well.
 

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The Shell is not available here in the states from what I read plus its not like that's the best oil anyway, far from it. Shell is a Ducati sponsor you know lol. That's like saying you should always run Mobil 1 in your new Porsche forever just because it comes filled with it and a fancy Mobil 1 oil cap.

I will be using Redline 10w40 motorcycle oil, the new blend.
Redline is a great oil. I've always used the Bel ray EXS. I've ran this in all the bike I've had. I've never had any troubles. It's a little exspensive, but good stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #13

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Motul

Alex - Santa Barbara Ducati services my ST3 with Motul 5100, a synthetic blend. Bike has 6,000miles, I broke it in per the book and now ride it relatively hard. It runs great and uses no oil.

BTW - EBN last Monday was fun, can't wait for next month.
 

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http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

believe it. All the drag racers I know beat up new engines to get max horsepower.
I was introduced to this break in method by a buddy who bought a new 999 in 03. He hammered it out of the block and continued to do so both on the street and track until he sold it a couple years back. He takes immaculate care of his bikes and told me he had not one issue with his 999, ran perfect from day one. I advised people when the subject of break in came up about my friend's method, but in the back of my mind I wondered if he just got lucky. I kind of thought since the Ducati was designed as a race bike then it should tolerate hard acceleration. But since reading the article it kind of adds credibility to the alternative break in method. I've been thinking about buying a new RSV4 R next year and now I wonder if I should follow the factory recommendations or just go for it.
 

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Actually, Ducati doesn't say not to be hard on your engine during break-in, just not to exceed certain RPM. My SS and 999R were both broken in this way (the ST2 was bought used, but I again broke it in like this when I installed hi-comps). Lots of hard acceleration, and deceleration using engine braking, and avoiding constant RPM cruising.

Tom
 
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