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Discussion Starter #1
My 08 Mts has begun being difficult to start. I’m pretty sure it’s due to either an old battery or a fueling issue.

Has spark but the voltage drops from around high 11’s or 12 volts to 8 or 9 during start cycle. I removed the battery and had it tested and they said it passed.

Also the sound of the fuel pump priming is not the same. There used to be a definite cycle and electric “drip” sound at key on, now there is simply the gauge lights and tack sweep with a feint prime during key on.

Incidentally the odometer changed significantly 50k+ miles after the battery was removed however most of the bike looks like it only has the 2400-2600 miles the odometer previously read.

I bought it salvage so is it possible that the gauge cluster was replaced from a higher mileage bike? If so how was the odometer set to the lower mileage?

Sorry for the mess of a post and thanks for any advice.
 

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Go ahead and get a new battery. Less than 10 volts while starting, it's dead. A low battery can cause all your problems. Then go from there, fuel filter? Cheers
 

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You don't say how many km are on either the bike or the battery. Batteries are the obvious first step, if you want to find out if it's the battery just jump the bike from your car. Be careful and connect the bike first to avoid metal to metal, ideally you'd have a set of cables with smaller clips - there are some monster ones out there. If it starts easily with the big car battery connected, then replace your battery.

The multi - any big twin - is a tough nut to crank and is hard on batteries. If you take a lot of short, around-town trips I have found that the battery doesn't last more than a couple of seasons as it uses more charge starting it than gets replaced on a 5 minute ride. I plug mine into a trickle charger when I get home from a short-trip day - it's only about 5-7 minutes for me to ride to work for example.

As others have noted, make sure your battery connections are CLEAN, both POS and NEG on the battery itself and also follow the fat wire from the NEG to where it bolts onto the top of the engine or frame. Take apart this connection and clean it up with emery paper so that you have shiny metal surfaces. Check the connection of the fat wire on the starter - this is down low so if you do any rainy riding the rubber boot on the post on the starter can accumulate moisture. Be really careful if you need to take this connection apart, use two wrenches to avoid spinning the post which will render the starter useless.

If it's not the battery, try running some injector cleaner in a couple of tanks of fuel. Just a little buildup will adversely affect the injector's ability to atomize the fuel significantly.

My '09 starts hard BUT... I discovered that if, while it's cranking over, I just barely crack the throttle - and I mean BARELY TOUCH IT - the bike starts pretty much immediately. If you look for posts under my name you will find one about hard starting - there are a few theories about the inlet tract getting gummed up, etc. but I haven't looked at mine and probably won't unless the throttle crack trick stops working.

If you've never changed it, the fuel filter may be getting a big plugged up, or you also may develop a small crack (which will get bigger) in one of the fuel lines inside your tank. Replacing the filter and hoses isn't a terrible idea on an 11-year-old bike, and the fuel line is cheap. If you do this buy yourself some decent connectors and a tool - like the metal ones that are on it now. Zip ties are not a good long-term solution.

One last thing is spark plugs. They can last a long time, but performance can become degraded. Also cheap, you should replace them periodically if you haven't done so recently.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks to everyone for the replies. Work has been a little busy lately so I haven’t had any time to follow through on the suggestions.

I did mention the mileage in passing but since it is a salvage title bike I don’t know the actual mileage for sure. From trying to judge wear and tear it seems like the 2400 miles on the odometer could be the true miles but I’ll probably never know.

Again thanks for the replies, I’ll start with a new battery and plugs, along with taking a look at the fuel filter.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Quick update for anyone that is curious or runs across this post via searches.

My problem ended up being an apparently common issue with the electrical connection in the fuel flange (fuel pump). Took me about 8 to 10 hours over several days to figure out how to get everything apart, fix the issue (dig out the epoxy on the fuel pump bulkhead connector, re-solder the fuel pump positive lead and the thermistor lead and re-apply epoxy), and then re-assemble everything.

There are some you-tube videos detailing this that were done by Bob Rumohr I used for help.
 

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Quick update for anyone that is curious or runs across this post via searches.

My problem ended up being an apparently common issue with the electrical connection in the fuel flange (fuel pump). Took me about 8 to 10 hours over several days to figure out how to get everything apart, fix the issue (dig out the epoxy on the fuel pump bulkhead connector, re-solder the fuel pump positive lead and the thermistor lead and re-apply epoxy), and then re-assemble everything.

There are some you-tube videos detailing this that were done by Bob Rumohr I used for help.
Thanks for the update. Always nice when someone does that.
 
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