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Amazing looking bike and great job on the trailer!! Have you considered the Pit Bull restraint for the rear? I have a Kendon 2 bike trailer which doesn't really lend itself to using one (easily) but I'm still considering getting one and modding my trailer.
 

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That's pretty much what I had in mind, bolting 3/4" plywood down with a lot of fasteners and then mounting the pit bull to the plywood. Looks great!
Thanks, that’s exactly what I did. Adds a little weight to the rear, but not enough to cause any concern. I had to remove the bolted on channels/chocks to get the spacing right for two bikes.
 

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Thanks, that’s exactly what I did. Adds a little weight to the rear, but not enough to cause any concern. I had to remove the bolted on channels/chocks to get the spacing right for two bikes.

Does the trailer still fold? What keeps it from bouncing, do you do anything to the front?
 

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I'm not going to lie, I was nervous as hell the entire 220 miles from Warhorse (PA) to my house in MD. I'm sure I didn't go more than .5 miles w/o checking my mirror and analyzing bike lean angle. LOL
The Pit Bull system would have alleviated that.
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I'm not going to lie, I was nervous as hell the entire 220 miles from Warhorse (PA) to my house in MD. I'm sure I didn't go more than .5 miles w/o checking my mirror and analyzing bike lean angle. LOL
The Pit Bull system would have alleviated that. View attachment 1017857

The system is plenty secure if you use it correctly. I would recommend a few things regarding your setup, there are a few things that are sub-optimal. (particularly #1).

  1. Adjust your chock, the wheel should be touching the front. Jamming wood in there is not good. The bike will stand on its own when its set correctly.
  2. Don't put straps around your throttle barrel. If you can use the triples or use a canyon dancer type thing.
  3. The seat is probably not the best rear mounting point, rig up a tube or something (I use PVC) to go thru the rear axle.
 

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The system is plenty secure if you use it correctly. I would recommend a few things regarding your setup, there are a few things that are sub-optimal. (particularly #1).

  1. Adjust your chock, the wheel should be touching the front. Jamming wood in there is not good. The bike will stand on its own when its set correctly.
  2. Don't put straps around your throttle barrel. If you can use the triples or use a canyon dancer type thing.
  3. The seat is probably not the best rear mounting point, rig up a tube or something (I use PVC) to go thru the rear axle.
I've not tried it with the SP but every other bike I've trailered with the Kendon has clearance problems, either with the lower part of the front fairing hit the metal "cup" or the front rotors touching the tire holder.
That IS a Canyon Dancer on the front.
All I had a pick up time was towels and straps. The SP doesn't have much to secure tie downs to.
 

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I've not tried it with the SP but every other bike I've trailered with the Kendon has clearance problems, either with the lower part of the front fairing hit the metal "cup" or the front rotors touching the tire holder.
That IS a Canyon Dancer on the front.
All I had a pick up time was towels and straps. The SP doesn't have much to secure tie downs to.
I have a 1299s and it does clear the chock. I use this canyon dancer which I think is better if your attaching to the throttle. Ive also used figure 8's on the triple and run the straps inside the front fairing, but they do press a bit on the fairings.

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From the CD site:

Should I buy the Original Bar Harness or the new Bar Harness II?

The Bar Harness II was developed to solve the four main issues encountered with the Original Bar Harness. There are work-a-rounds and techniques that make the Original Bar Harness work just fine for most folks but the Bar Harness II addresses those issues and is even quicker to install, and the same price. 1. The Original Bar Harness would often tend to “scrunch” up the grips if not installed properly or if they were over-tightened or the grips were not properly glued to the bars. 2. In the process of scrunching grips, the cuffs would migrate inward which would move your tie downs closer to body work. …not always a good thing. 3. The cuffs, in order to clear a wider variety of fairings were made to keep the cross-straps very close to the bars and sometimes that placed them too close to the switchgear, fouling horn and starter buttons. Insufficiently tightened switchgear can be pulled inward which can break the tiny locating pins on some bikes. Once a new bike is assembled, the little pins are no longer necessary, but nevertheless…
 

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Does the trailer still fold? What keeps it from bouncing, do you do anything to the front?
It still folds completely. I just use a bungee to keep it closed tight while in the upright position. I’ve not done anything else to the front, and I’ve never noticed any movement of the front wheel. I think the bike’s forks absorb a lot of the bumps transmitted to the front of the bike, but I’m sure the front wheel could come off the deck if you hit a big enough bump in the road.
 

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OP, how's hauling the bike/trailer with the CRV? I am actually looking for an older gen CRV for the same reason, bike hauler to the track.
 

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OP, how's hauling the bike/trailer with the CRV? I am actually looking for an older gen CRV for the same reason, bike hauler to the track.
I had no issues. Drove 5 hours doing 80 mph with my rig. No bouncing around, tracked true.
Just got lower MPG, LOL

I will have to look at the pitbull rear chock....
 

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Pitbull are perfect if you always tow the same or similar bikes, if you want a universal rig, better with a good wheel chock.
 

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Careful if that trailer gets wet... if so, don't unload your bike and wait for it to dry. That painted surface will be like greased ice then using your front brake while going down the ramp will do exactly nothing to stop it and you'll both end up on the ground.
 
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