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Discussion Starter #1
Hi
My S4RS has developed an issue when accelerating hard. At 6000 RPM the clutch will break traction and spin.

I have opened the clutch cover and didn’t see anything unusual like oil, just the usual dust within.
Bike Has original clutch with 51,000 km
Lever action still feels the same.
I expect it just needs a new set of clutch plates....
 

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No, just a couple of Allen wrenches. I rub the steel plates on some sandpaper on glass to make sure they’re still flat, and deburr anything that needs it so each plate slides well. To Measure your stack height to make sure it’s in spec a cheap pair of digital calipers from Harbor Freight will do. That way you can measure individual plates to swap them around and get your stack height. Too thick, the clutch won’t release, too thin, the clutch will slip. Check the bearings while you have it apart and replace if needed. Bleed it when your done and Bobs your uncle.
 

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That would depend on whether mud wants a harder clutch pull or not. If he’s got an open cover stainless springs are nice, but they’ll be a little stiffer.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the tips! I would keep it with stock springs as the OEM cover is still intact.
I got an estimate of Can$500-800 which sounds high since the plates are so accessible.
 

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Thanks for the tips! I would keep it with stock springs as the OEM cover is still intact.
I got an estimate of Can$500-800 which sounds high since the plates are so accessible.

It's a very easy job to change them yourself, a 5mm allen key to get the cover off and a 4mm allen key to get the spring retainers off so the pressure plate comes off, that's it!

When you disassemble it keep all the plates in order so you know how they go back together and check the condition of the basket, if it's all chewed up then you will need a clutch holding tool to get the hub and basket off, if you've had a look inside already then you can disassemble it to check the basket and maybe just clean everything and reassemble it. Who knows, may stop your slipping issue for a while at least.

You can buy Surflex and Barnett as aftermarket kits, i _think_ these are just friction plates, if you buy genuine you get friction and steels which is my preference, you can also choose between steel and Al friction plates but you need to match them to the basket, if the basket needs replacing get a hard anodised alloy basket and an alloy friction plate set, it's lighter and quieter, service life in my experience is about the same.
 

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IIRC, Barnett are only the friction plates. I like them , they work fine, and the alloy plate is easier on your basket and quieter. The stock plates obviously last really well . No direct experience with Surflex but I’ve heard good things. Barnett is usually the cheapest option for a quality part.
 

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I had the same characteristics with my 2006 999s and discovered 2 broken Springs that didn’t look broken until I removed the spring caps. Much cheaper and easier fix. I bought heavy duty Barnet Springs for about $36. Don’t over tighten the spring bolts, just make them snug - about 6 Nm of torque.
 
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