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Need advise plz.
I recently upgraded my, 83 900Sd with a hydraulic clutch, (so good on long rides thru town and quick thru the gears). Doing so, i found my clutch rods/rollers worn (flat spots). The adjustment bolt was half way down the locking nut to get the 2mm movement. Of course i ordered new rod kit but if anything, that might give me say 3mm on adjuster.

The clutch works fine, better than ever. Smooth gear change without clunk and instant gear change purrs without losing power. Thru the S's she powers on. Yet now, when i gun it at mid rpm the clutch slips. Makes sense after 35yrs, the clutch plates to be worn too.
Looking into new clutches i learnt of Kevlar (re coating) and slip clutches, both rated at 0.13 resistance, compared to .03 of original plates. Like most, i brake via down shift and the thought of a slip clutch is appealing to avoid compression lock up hops.

My last Duke was a 78 Gts9, so i would appreciate any advise. I'm not up to date.

Half the fun of a Duc is working on it.
Thanks C
 

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If you’re having “ compression lock up hops “ when down shifting and slippage when “ gunning it at midrange “ and the idea of a slipper clutch is appealing, go for it. I’m not familiar with your bike, but in the case of hydraulic clutches on Ducatis the clutch rod must have clearance which is adjusted by altering the “stack height” ( the total thickness of the clutch plate stack ). It sounds as if you’re adjusting rod clearance with the adjuster from the non hydraulic set up, correct ? I see nothing wrong with that, as long as you end up with some rod clearance . I don’t quite understand why the clutch slips on accell but not decel, but a new slipper would certainly fix both issues.
 

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i've never seen a slipper for a bevel. the std packs slipped on a good day. the surflex replacement had a lot less friction material area for higher pressure loading. i've not used any of the gowanloch carbon plate kits, but i am told they're very good.

the large pushrod roller pieces should have flat spots on them where the balls sit. is that what you're seeing?

if it is hydraulic then it will be self adjusting as such. the adjuster bolt may need to be set based on where the piston bottoms out, but apart from the piston rest position it is irrelevant. i'd wind it all the way in and see what the plate starts to lift, which will be when the piston has bottomed out in the slave. you might need to lower the fluid level.
 
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