[Nikke]

Hi,

I've got a strange issue with my 7.5 A signal fuse that generally keeps blowing when using turn indicator immediately after refueling. It seems to happen only if I wait for the low fuel light to come on before refueling and hasn't happened unless I've filled her up.

Seems to be an uncommon issue?

FYI
I ripped the tank open this winter and may somehow have damaged the sensor whilst cleaning the tank (I couldn't get the sensor out)?

I may have a potentially related (or perhaps a more serious?) electrical issue with the Neutral light sometimes remaining fully on and "partially on" (ie dim but still shining) even when riding. The neutral light got hung up last week after beeing in neutral for about five minutes with engine running and I can't recall noticing the N shining when it shouldn't prior that - the fuse issue is about two weeks old which essentially is how long I've been riding her.

Thanks in advance

 

[Punch]

It is strange.

I have looked at the wiring diagram - i have attached my coloured version from a 900SSie, which will be very similar.

I think you have damaged the wiring at the wires to the tank or maybe less likely inside the tank. Maybe damage by pulling the wires to try to get them and the sensor out of the tank or maybe moving them inside the tank - who knows!

If you look at the attached diagram at the far left for the dash lights, the dark blue wire - connection F (connected to neutral light) goes to the wires to the fuel sensor/fuel pump. The low fuel light - connection H also runs to the fuel sensor. This may be where there is a wire touching another partially or fully sometimes to make your neutral light come on.

I am not sure why a turn signal would blow the fuse after the low fuel light has been on as they are not in the same circuit.

I would start by checking connections at the connector at the fuel tank and think back to what you did. From the wiring diagram and your comment about the problem you had at the fuel tank, this seems to be where the neutral light fully on or dimly on would come from. Fix that first then see if the turn signal fuse problem goes away.

Richard

 

[Nikke]

Hi Richard,

Thanks for your reply. It's strange indeed.

A short or unintended connection somewhere sounds insightful and simple enough to be probable cause! Will go through and clean all the connectors. If I find nothing strange I guess I'll have to peek into the tank again or order a new fuel sensor. I know I'm complicating things now but it seems I not supposed to put fully syntetic oil in her either.. Maybe this is what's messing with the N light?

Where do I find the attached schematic?

 

[Joe-B]

Full synthetic oil is what you are supposed to use, although you don't have to. Either way, it wouldn't affect the neutral light. The wire to the neutral sensor can break or get twisted where it enters the transmission.

 

[Punch]

Hi Richard,

Thanks for your reply. It's strange indeed.

A short or unintended connection somewhere sounds insightful and simple enough to be probable cause! Will go through and clean all the connectors. If I find nothing strange I guess I'll have to peek into the tank again or order a new fuel sensor. I know I'm complicating things now but it seems I not supposed to put fully syntetic oil in her either.. Maybe this is what's messing with the N light?

Where do I find the attached schematic?

Sorry - forgot to attach it.

The solid blue line on the diag powers the flash unit #5, the neutral light at #39 and to the tank, probably to the low fuel sensor.

The neutral light always on, either fully on or dim is odd and probably a separate issue to the blowing fuses. The blue is positive to the light and the negative side is via the yellow/green wire to the neutral switch #33. Maybe #33 is faulty or the Y/G wire is chafed and touches the frame. With the key off and in neutral the resistance between connection A at the instruments and battery negative or the frame should be infinite. If you see any resistance then there is a problem. I don't know where the neutral switch is. If you do have some resistance, disconnect the Y/G wire from it, then measure resistance again from connection A to B -or frame. If there is resistance, then there is a problem with the wire. If infinite resistance, check resistance between the neutral switch, where the Y/G wire was and B- or frame. If not infinite, then the problem is with the switch.

The above is all logical. I cannot work out the logic of the fuel light having been on, then off after filling, then using the turn signal blowing the fuse!

The blue wire permanently supplies positive to the low fuel sensor and the white/brown wire supplies positive to the light when the sensor drops . The other side of the light is connected to negative. The fuel pump gets its power from relay 27 via the brown/white wire.

One guess is that there is some current being drawn due to the fuel sensor and using the turn signal takes the current higher than the fuse rating.

Another guess is the wires are damaged are damaged at the tank connection and maybe power from the blue is getting to the fuel pump.

You could simulate the conditions at home. Siphon fuel from the tank to make the fuel light come on. Switch off the key as you would at a gas station. Then check resistances at the connection to the tank and to B- or frame. Then put in fuel to a level that would make the fuel light go off, then measure resistances again to see if you can see if/where something is incorrect.

Richard

 

[Punch]

The attachment is from the parts list. Number 6 must be the neutral switch.

As per my other email, you can test resistances there. With the connector unplugged check the wires from the instrument panel. Then check the switch itself.
Out of gear = infinite
In gear = very low - close to zero.
Back in neutral = infinite again.

Might be the switch is sticking. Take it out and soak in petrol/paraffin and work the pushrod in and out.