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I just bought a red 2007 GT! I was the one going back and forth between a new GT and a used one. The bike is pristine, 4,000 miles, 14 tooth sprocket and Termis. I managed to get this bike for 6,800. Not bad huh?

Anyway, I'm a 5,5 female and need to lower the bike about an inch. I called Custom Sport Classic and had a chat about the Hagon Nitro Performance Shocks and YSS. I'm looking to spend 600 or so bucks. Any suggestions? Opinions regarding these two shocks? Is it worth getting the Hyperpro Fork Springs? I don't know anything about the quality and would appreciate any feedback.

This is a great site and I'm looking forward to owning one of these beauties!

Cheers,
KC
 

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Welcome to the forum. I weigh at least 100 pounds more than you, maybe 150, so I simply have no concept of what the stock suspension is like for you.

Who knows, the stock forks might work great for you?

In any event, congrats on the bike; you are going to love it.
 

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Don't know much about the Hagon shocks other than they look really nice. I know you can lower the suspension significantly with the YSS so I'd suggest that for you if you need to. The comfort seat is also lower by about 1". This might do for you. Women generally have longer legs in proportion to their height than men do. Fork springs are sprung for someone ~150-180 lb. so you're probably fine there. I'd recommend replacing the fork oil with something lighter. Stock is ~ 7 wt. I'd go with 5 wt. with the stock springs. Maybe add a spacer as well to increase the pre-load. A good local suspension shop can help you with this.

Good luck, and welcome aboard.
 

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Is it worth getting the Hyperpro Fork Springs? I don't know anything about the quality and would appreciate any feedback.

Cheers,
KC
It depends on your weight… i have used them but for my weight the progression rate was a bit on the strong side…
I could not use enough of the possible travel.

So i changed to fully adjustable Showa forks from Monster S4…

I weigh 165 lbs… by the way
 

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I would also recommend pitching the front of the bike maybe a 1/2 inch. This can be done by lowering the triple clamp on the forks. (Have a shop do it for you, though). There are handling benefits to this on top of lowering the height of the handle bars. but it does't help you with the rear...

there is a member here (Mase) with a Paul Smart who created a rear shock lowering bracket to considerably lower his ride. Check out this thread:

http://www.ducati.ms/forums/showthread.php?t=53824

Welcome to the forum!
 

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I would also recommend pitching the front of the bike maybe a 1/2 inch. This can be done by lowering the triple clamp on the forks. (Have a shop do it for you, though).
Ditto.
 

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Hey!

Im a little stumpy in the leg department, so I lowered the bike 1.5 inches..... Also lowered the front end about an inch thru the clamps. It can totally be done- and not that it really matters, but the bike looks badass sitting that low. It does scrape on the header pipes ever so slightly if you are really on the edge of the tires (track riding) but never had an issue on the street. You will still have a standover issue because of the wide seat, but it wont be as bad as stock. I got the YSS shocks, I think you get more bang for the buck in terms of adjustability over the hagons.

Just a reminder- You will have to bend the kickstand a bit to compensate for the lowered-ness. Just gotta heat it up red-hot in a vice and beat it with a hammer or bend it with a big tube in small increments till the bike leans without tipping over.

Sorry y'alls if this was already discussed..... Surfing all day and Im kinda slow now.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Just got back from a good ride. Wow...once I became use to the touchy throttle and gearing the ride was amazing. I feel more comfortable with the height than I thought I would. I think lowering it just half inch would be perfect for me.

I did notice the tank had a few ripples and was a bit loose up towards the front. I'll take it in to ucati in the morning and have them order a new tank, if what I'm reading on this site is true, they will replace it.

I wonder if the replacement tanks are going to be any different?

Thanks for all the info. Great site.

Cheers
 

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.... Oh yea, not to sound like a Know it all, but if you are doing lowering - make sure to re-adjust your chain after everything is done! The extra inches in lower bike make the chain too tight. "If you lower the back.... You gotta give it some slack" Ha! How that for a limrick?
 

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.... Oh yea, not to sound like a Know it all, but if you are doing lowering - make sure to re-adjust your chain after everything is done! The extra inches in lower bike make the chain too tight. "If you lower the back.... You gotta give it some slack" Ha! How that for a limrick?
Sorry, a limerick would be:

If you lower the bike check your chain
If too tight it will be a big pain
Your sprockets will wear
So you'd better not dare
Or it could be the end of your reign


I think what you wrote would be a "Johnny Cochran."
:rolleyes:
 

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Isn't altering the bike's factory geometry quite a guessing game? There are two factors that come into play, the optimal "bike" geometry, which is presumed to be tuned for the average rider whatever they may look like, and the actual rider meshing with the individual bike. I'm sure the engineers have figured out what the best stance for these bikes, and the manual sugests no more than +-5mm fork travel. How much are you willing to go outside of these tolerances to match the bike to the rider while maintaining safety? Of course, in view of the history of modding a couple of inches of fork travel or rear end lowering is pebbles to the mountains.
 

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Look at the sticky thread for suspension mods. They will spell out why and how to set up your forks for your weight if you are lighter than what the stock springs are made for. There are options of taking forks from other bikes off Flea Bay to save money that you can change the springs in.

Others are right lower the rear and loosen chain. What the last guy said about messing with what the factory setup geometry...... if you lower the rear a inch you start with lowering the front the same and its dang near the same geometry. But as far as the twin shock options I have a Mono so only learned about their options :) Hopefully others can shine light on that!

It can be done and welcome to the Ducati family!! Spend some time reading the mod write ups it helps to see all the options.
 

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I don't know how to link other threads but looking for parts for myself and found this posted by roggt1000 in the parts section of this site very bottom of page 5

"Wilbers rear shocks...custom built in Germany to suit her 5'6" height and 70KG weight....she paid $1600 fitted....looking to get $900...they are 2000klms old. Adjustable preload only.....but WTF....they are built to suit a light shorter person."

How tall did you say you were?
 

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Sorry, a limerick would be:

If you lower the bike check your chain
If too tight it will be a big pain
Your sprockets will wear
So you'd better not dare
Or it could be the end of your reign


I think what you wrote would be a "Johnny Cochran."
:rolleyes:

....End of your Reign....... Nice!
 

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I just bought a red 2007 GT! I was the one going back and forth between a new GT and a used one. The bike is pristine, 4,000 miles, 14 tooth sprocket and Termis. I managed to get this bike for 6,800. Not bad huh?

Anyway, I'm a 5,5 female and need to lower the bike about an inch. I called Custom Sport Classic and had a chat about the Hagon Nitro Performance Shocks and YSS. I'm looking to spend 600 or so bucks. Any suggestions? Opinions regarding these two shocks? Is it worth getting the Hyperpro Fork Springs? I don't know anything about the quality and would appreciate any feedback.

This is a great site and I'm looking forward to owning one of these beauties!

Cheers,
KC
I've got the Hagons and Hyperpro springs. The Hagons are 20mm lower than stock and the Hyperpros are progressive so if you don't shim them they will sit lower. You lose a little travel in the fork however. Just make sure you get the right spring rate if U are going with the Hagons. Bike just soaks up the bumps now, almost as good as the Multi I once had :)
 

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Isn't altering the bike's factory geometry quite a guessing game? There are two factors that come into play, the optimal "bike" geometry, which is presumed to be tuned for the average rider whatever they may look like, and the actual rider meshing with the individual bike. I'm sure the engineers have figured out what the best stance for these bikes, and the manual sugests no more than +-5mm fork travel. How much are you willing to go outside of these tolerances to match the bike to the rider while maintaining safety? Of course, in view of the history of modding a couple of inches of fork travel or rear end lowering is pebbles to the mountains.
True, but these bikes come kinda dangerous-handling (what with all the headshake issues) from the factory..... I blame it on the 3 hour lunch breaks they have over there
 
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