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Discussion Starter #1
So I’ve got my first track day out of the way on a beater Ninja 300. Now I’m going back with my Multi.

Anyone know how to get the best out of sport mode by tweaking the skyhook, ABS and traction control settings?

I’m thinking to go stiffest suspension setting, DTC3, DWC off, ABS front only and engine power medium.

Also going to remove the top box mount and rear passenger pegs and get some grippier front pads on.

Anything I’m missing or anything to add?
 

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First thing i'd do is dump those scorpion trail tires for something with more cornering angle.
 

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Ya if you have the Scorpions I'd swap 'em out. I have a set of trail tires on a spare set of rims if I want to do any offroading at all (lots of FSR's around where I live). For the track any street-oriented tire will be better than the Scorpions, although depending on your riding level really they're good tires and are grippy enough; tire technology has improved by leaps and bounds in the past 20 years and today's multi-use tires rival what you'd see for street tires a decade or two back. If you're a novice track rider you probably won't notice a big difference, if any.

My multi has Pilot Road 4's which I'm not super impressed with. The front is not wearing great, it's getting harder to turn in and I haven't gotten that many more miles out of them than my last set of Dunlop Q3's. I'll be going back to the Dunlops as I really don't give a damn about mileage on the tires, for me it's about performance. The Angel GT's have a good reputation for decent balance between longevity and performance (like the PR4's). Really it depends how you ride. If I was riding 15000 miles a year doing a lot of highway touring, I'd opt for a touring tire. I generally do rips in the mountains, the occasional track day, and "touring" in my neck of the woods is a lot of curves and hills so I tend to buy sport tires. FWIW, as I said I haven't seen that the PR4's have lasted any longer than any other tires, I've got maybe 7,000km on the front and while it's got some tread left it's definitely getting flat.

As far as settings on the electronics there's no easy answer. Sport mode is going to give you a sh*tload of power at the twist of your wrist, I'd leave the ABS and TC settings middle of the road and see how it feels. If you feel the TC kicking in more than you want it to then turn it down. Again, your level of experience will have a lot to do with it. Ride a few laps with suspension as is, or a few clicks stiffer, and see how much it dives when braking or squats when accelerating and adjust. I would not turn off wheelie control but that's just me. When your front wheel is in the air you are slow. With ABS, not sure why you'd turn it off either... locked wheels are never good. All of these "rider aids" (DTC, DWC, etc.) were developed at the MotoGP level, and they will allow you to ride (well!) beyond your ability without them. Disabling or minimizing their effect is not going to make you go faster, no matter what level your riding is at.
 

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Put it in sport mode by all means.
Suspension - I put mine on "With passenger" and went from there. Ended up changing over to "Passenger and luggage" after half a session.
Check your tires and pressure, try to go on some nice road tires like Michelin pilot Power os somesuch.
Leave ABS on. Then you can just jam down the back brake and concentrate on the front.
DTC - Dont turn it off. setting 3 was the lowest I´ve had mine and that allows some powersliding.
 

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One more important thing. Air down to about 24r/28f cold. Bring a good pressure gauge and inflator.
 

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First thing i'd do is dump those scorpion trail tires for something with more cornering angle.
Ah so its not just my imagination. I just picked up a 2013 base model("had"11 miles on it) been riding mostly 2-up and I'm already at the edge of the rear tire.:surprise:
 

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Take off your mirrors (one bolt comes out clockwise, so pay attention!), pull out the fuse for your headlight, disconnect your tail light and take off the tail light/plate assembly, painters tape on your headlight and front turn signals. Stiffen up your suspension (I put mine on two riders + bags), check your tire wear throughout the day and adjust pressure and suspension accordingly (https://lifeatlean.com/motorcycle-tyre-wear-guide/), I'm a big fan of dunlop Q3+ tires, they do really well on the track and street. Bring some fuel, shade, food, water, spare clothes for after the day is over (best feeling putting clean clothes on after a track day) and your key!

Optional: if you have a touring windscreen, put the stock one on or just leave the windscreen off. You can also remove the center stand for more ground clearance.
 

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Some good points made in all of these post. Having ridden a street bike on track (not yet my Multi, though plan to), here's what I would do:

1) Remove the mirrors, because you don't want to be looking back (at all), it helps aerodynamics, and it's one less thing you can break if the bike ever goes down. At minimum, turn them inwards, but I'd only do that if removing is wholly impractical (hard to take them off or you are driving the bike to the event). I like to take off the numberplate too, but given where it is located (underneath your bike) the aero downside of having it on is probably minimal.

2) Most track days that allow road bikes don't require you to remove brake light or headlight fuses. As nobody is looking back, headlights shouldn't matter anyway. Brake lights aren't actually a bad thing in the slow/intermediate groups where you'd be able to ride a Multi, to let people know when you are braking (especially if you brake too early).

3) Taping off lights is not necessary. This is a relic from the days when they were made of actual glass, which you don't want on the track in case a bike goes down. Nowadays it's all plastic. No track day I've been to asks for this. Some people still do it though, don't know why (old bikes?).

4) Whatever your tyres are, in principle you'd have to drop their pressure. However if you are just exploring the track for the first time, or behind an instructor (below 80% pace), or on a bike you've never tracked, you would only need to lose something like 0.1 or 0.2 bar (psi conversion: Google), which isn't worth it. But as you start pushing on, you want to find a (lower) pressure that results in .3 to .4 bar increase from cold to hot. Having TPMS (tyre pressure monitoring system) is awesome for this, if you don't have that bring a (reliable) gauge. A good starting point (for an amateur) is usually something like 2.3 front / 2.3 rear on a sporty street bike, but with the Multi's weight it may need to be more. You can drop from there if needed. If you see 'tears' on your tyre (especially rear) after a session, you are likely running too high pressure (hot tear) or just maybe - though unlikely - too low (cold tear). You want a 'beach at the tide' look (see Life at Lean).

5) Probably not a bad idea to make sure you have something that would protect the engine in case you'd go down. Something on which the bike can slide (like bars) is better than 'pointy' crash bungs as those would dig into the ground (assuming you'd go off track) and likely flip the bike over.

6) Don't change your brake pads. You have Brembo M50s with sintered pads already. The only difference between them and track pads is that those will be more aggressive (less 'gradual' in how they bite), which is probably a disadvantage unless you are really good. Maximum braking power will not be affected. Oh, and someone was talking rear brake: you don't use rear brake on track (again, unless you are a driving god), it won't help and is just another thing distracting you. Also, try to learn how to brake with two fingers (you can brake plenty hard like that).

7) Haven't driven the Multi on track so don't know if the center stand would scrape before the pegs or exhaust do. I would hope not, but ask around. If it significantly reduces maximum lean angle, it would be worth taking off.

8) Once all of that is done, you've just covered the basics. Now you can think of upgrades - start with tyres. On a bike like this, unless you want to go really crazy, Pirelli Angel GT IIs (or similar but I suspect those are the best option) should do (this is what California Superbike School runs on their rental bikes in case you are worried they would not suffice). On my last day I saw a guy on a GS hang off like an ape, scraping the pegs, i.e. had his bike tipped over as far as it would go. He was on touring tyres. Modern tyres are not the problem. If you absolutely must have maximum drive out of every corner, at the biggest lean angle, you could go for a Diablo Rosso Corsa II, but the benefit on a bike like the Multi (which you can't lean the way you can a real sportsbike) is probably minimal to none. Rosso III is another option but I suspect the newer Angel GT IIs are just as good, and if worse we are talking percentage points of difference during low digit percentages of the length of a lap.

9) I would likely start with standard Sport setting but change to 'harder' suspension front and rear, and work from there. Wheelie control is typically a good thing, for going faster... if your wheel does more than 'skim' the ground out of slow corners onto big straights, increase it or learn to be more gradual on the throttle. Traction control should remain on, it's what's between you and a highsider on a massively powerful bike like this. If it cuts in too much, reduce it one step at a time. I would also not touch ABS unless you can get it to trigger consistently, which means you are either rear braking (don't) or overbraking (don't - it's a Multi, not a superbike).

10) The exception that must be changed is pre-load (the one/two/luggage option). You should initially increase to at least two up, probably two up plus luggage, unless you are a flyweight. Reason being that pre-load will stop your front from bottoming out under hard braking. Ideally, figure out at what point your forks bottom out, and use zip ties to check that you are not reaching that point. If you have more than 20mm of reserve (with your hardest braking), reduce pre-load again (step by step, you can use the detailed settings rather than the cruder one/two/luggage options).

11) In the category of minimal incremental upgrades, a shorter/lower screen may help, mainly for looking cooler. Remember to lay flat on the tank on the straights.

12) If nothing else, bring water, some energy bars, a cap, sunglasses and sunscreen. And watch Life at Lean, you won't regret it. Motovudu is also good - especially the advice to slide to the (relevant) side before you start braking, and to stay on that side if the next turn is in the same direction.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks so much for all your advice guys.

I'm currently running a set of PR4s with maybe 1,000 miles on them. I'll be in a rookie/novice group so not much risk of pushing them too hard I think. It'll be hot out, so I just hope I don't chew then up too much.

The bike has axel sliders, crash bars, barkbusters and a water pump guard, so decent crash protection.

Mainly I want to make sure I've got controllable power delivery and my suspension set for optimal smoothness. I like the idea of the zip-tie trick. I'm about 200 lbs geared up, so I think I'll start with maximum firmness front and maybe one peg lower rear and keep engine power to medium.

Lots to think about. Going to watch Life at Lean
 

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If there's a suspension guy (Dave Moss) in Cali, T-Hill etc. gontonit, in fact pay for a whole day check and adjustments, ($40 with Dave) it will make a huge difference.

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These are Angel GT "D" specs. Dave set up the suspension on my 2016 PP. The tires preformed flawlessly, I believe he also lower the pressure to 32f 30r.
I rode about 4,000 miles on them, but I have a "heavy" right hand...
Just got a new set, not going to change brand or type.


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Thanks so much for all your advice guys.

I'm currently running a set of PR4s with maybe 1,000 miles on them. I'll be in a rookie/novice group so not much risk of pushing them too hard I think. It'll be hot out, so I just hope I don't chew then up too much.
PR4s will do fine. As long as you remember to drop pressure as you start upping the pace. This may not be in session 1 of the day yet, but then again you can't do much wrong going .1 or .2 lower than standard - expressed in bar as I don't talk psi - to start with. The main problem with tyre wear is if you run them too high pressure, they then heat up, this increases pressure, this in turns reduces the contact patch, that part gets hotter yet again, etc. This is when you get tears, i.e. chunks of rubber being torn off because they are melting and having to provide too much grip (due to heat=pressure overinflation). I'm not talking about the little rubber balls you might find at the edge of the tyre, but anything on the outer third starting from center.

If you avoid this problem, not only will your bike grip much better, your tyres will last practically indefinitely. Your hard-wearing center gets a bit more power than usual through it, but your total mileage will be low. Your sides are more prone to wear on track, but that's the part you never use on the road anyway. Unless you only track your bike, you won't wear the sides out before the center, and the center won't be massively affected by a trackday.

For reference, my other bike runs Rosso Corsa II, and after 4 trackdays, running a good intermediate pace group, there is tons of life left in them still (center nice and round, and the sides have wear markers showing much left).
 
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