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Discussion Starter #1
G'day, just joined the forum, after deciding I could do the 30,000klm service myself. I have a 2015 Multistrada S with the DVT. I am reasonably confident with changing the timing belts and measuring the valve gaps, I will have to do some more YouTube viewing on actually changing shims. I have a 1971 Kawasaki kz 650 which has the shims underneath the buckets so camshafts have to be removed to change shims (What a good idea).
I have been busy ordering gear I will need for the service ie plugs air filter oil filter oil belts etc.
One question I have already is about resetting the warning lights on the dash. I currently have an OBDII scanner code reader which I have used on my car, from what I have been reading so far I can get a lead that connects to the OBDII reader to the ECU via the 4 pin plug on the bike. Will this setup be able to clear the codes. My OBD reader is powered by the vehicles battery via the 16 pin plug, I can also fire it up via a usb plug on my laptop. Most of what I have been reading involves a bluetooth OBD reader, any advice greatly appreciated, regards Neil
 

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From my own research and what I've read here, there is no way to reset the service reminder on a DVT without buying a professional level diagnostic computer.
 

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Since I did nit found how to reset the service warning I simply changed the date and the warning disappears. To do so you only need to enter on the bike menu, go to date and change the only the year into an old one, I set 2019.
The hour remains the same so nothing important changes because the year and month are not visible on the dashboard unless you look for them entering through the menu.
 

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There are two factors that can trigger the service light, elapsed time and mileage. The date change trick may work when you have the service light on due to the elapsed time since the last service but I doubt it would work when you hit the mileage limit.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So latest update, doing a proper 30,000klm service by the book, oil, filters, brakes, belts, valves etc. Oh what an adventure it is turning into. It is a brute of a bike to work on, besides getting the plastic off, which is a challenge in itself, that is only a prelude into getting the deep spark-plug connectors out. What a PITA that was for both pots. I have worked on some frustrating old vehicles back in the day when to get a true valve gap the vehicle had to be idling and you had to have 3 hands to adjust the gaps with ring spanner screw driver and feeler gauge all going up and down at a gentle idle speed. (Pure bliss compared to working on this thing). So I have the new belts on and now I want to check the gaps for the valves, I do what the manual says but when I look at the picture within it shows the cams with the belts off and the cam securing journals off. Why is this, if you want to check the valve gaps why not do it with everything in situ and hopefully if everything measures OK you don't have to change any shims. So my question is " can I do the measurements with everything as is then only take off the belts, cams etc to change shims?
 

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Yes, you can check valve clearance with belts on, but if you are changing belts anyway, do it before you put new belts on. It sounds like you already put new belts on. Go ahead and check valve clearance with each cylinder at top dead center.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks the info was very helpful unfortunately I think I might have bent a valve as one of them is waaay off the limits.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
G'day, I marked all the belts and sprockets but still managed to get them out of sync. I was turning the rear in 6th gear very gently and I felt the valve touch the piston, as soon as I felt it I backed it off and tried to figure where I stuffed up. Not to worry I know the valves must be very delicate but I don't think I did any damage, welll I hope not. I removed the belts and sat and looked and tried to figure it out logically. Refered to the workshop manual again and thought that even though it has DVT it is still basically a 4 stroke engine ie (Suck-Squeeze-Bang-Blow).
So set the horizontal cylinder to top dead center, presumably on the compression stroke. Set the cam marks level with the head. The vertical pot is already going down on it's inlet stroke and I put the marks on the cam wheels level with the head. This is where I had to go against the spring on the inlet valve but with these DVT there is a big handy allen key hole on the end of the sprocket. lock the cams and fit the belts. Well that's what I did and it turns over without any valve/piston interference. Measured valve gaps and this is what I found.
HORIZONTAL CLOSING.
Left Inlet. .152 mm/.006 thouRight Inlet. .254mm/.010 thou
Left Exhaust .102mm/.004 thouRight Exhaust. .102mm/.004

HORIZONTAL OPENING.
Left Inlet .178mm/.007 thouRight Inlet. .152mm/.006 thou
Left Exhaust. .152mm/.006 thouRight Exhaust. .152mm/.006 thou

VERTICAL CLOSING
Left Inlet.127mm/.005 thouRight Inlet. .076mm/.003 thou
Left Exhaust. .152mm/.006 thouRight Exhaust. .102mm/.004 thou

VERTICAL OPENING
Left Inlet. .178mm/.007 thouRight Inlet. .127mm/.005 thou
Left exhaust. .152mm/.006 thouRight exhaust. .152mm/.006 thou
I have never measured these before but I am worried about the Horizontal Right Inlet .254mm which is way out of the limits. What dou you think any suggestions gratefully accepted, Regards Neil
 

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If you had no problems before you started the service. Continue on with the service. Change the shims to bring the valves into spec. If your worried, once it’s back together you could do a leak down or compression test, to ensure the valves are sealing ,(IE it hasn’t stuffed the valve seats). If your totally paranoid there is a valve problem, remove the head and check it first....IMO as long as it was running fine before you started this and you were not chasing a problem, simply adjust the clearances and get back to riding.
 
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Discussion Starter #10
Thank you for your prompt reply tiDuc. I did do a simple test and replaced one spark plug into the head and did the old finger in the other plug hole test by turning the wheel, there seemed to be greatly increased resistance in turning the wheel due to the compression, so hopefully it might be OK. Regards Neil
 
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