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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi All -

I'm quite new to the 1198S and have just started learning how to ride it after quite a few years out of the saddle.

I've set the TC to level 8 whilst I slowly get a feel for the bike. Something that came as quite a surprise was during relatively (OK in fact, quite light) acceleration, both the first and second warning lights came on the dashboard letting me know TC had kicked in - or was about to.

I was only shifting around 5000rpm (breaking it in you see), so I was quite surprised to see it come in so early.

What's the go with this? What have you guys got your TC levels set to?

I was quick shocked to see the lights come on. Somehow I find it very hard to believe it was coming anywhere near close to losing traction! Maybe it sensed an imminent wheelie?

Cheers guys.
 

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I lit off the t/c lights during break in too, but all instances were explainable. L8 is supposed to intervene at "the slightest hint" of wheelspin so if you think about it, the feature is working exactly as designed. I've got mine set on L7 for general riding around and find it doesn't interfere, and works really well when wet.
 

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Shit, I couldn't even ride the bike up the street in level 7, without the dash giving me a panic attack. Umm, if your looking for a decent setting, 5 - 6 right around there. Thats the "safety" net that won't intrude with regular riding what so ever, even if you ride hard. It will only kick in when you make a mistake or the traction is severely hindered.

I personally don't think the system is designed for the street, it happens to work there, but its really designed for the track because its a learning computer and ya can't learn very much from some street riding...



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Agreeing with Tye on this. It really is designed for the track. TBS, with #8 being the most intrusive, it will cut power at any deviation in front/rear wheel speed. As an example, Haga runs on the track at about #3(at most) and Fab's does #4(at most). Different world there of course.

Using it at 5-7 should work fins on the street if you don't want the front wheel to lift much or the rear to break out. We starting to reset all of our S/R models to the higher number for this very reason. Funny thing is, it's being looked at too much as a cushion. Remember, the standard doesn't have it at all, and everyone riding those bikes are doing fine.

Think of it as just another shiny object. Go "wow", then get back to just riding the bike.
 

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Why can't you just take a common sense approach to this and position yourself at the beginning of a nice twisty and from position 8 make a pass with a full throttle upon exit. Keep working down through the numbers until you highside. Now you have it, the previous setting number is the ideal one and that is the number for your replacement bike.
 

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Why can't just take a common sense approach to this and position yourself at the beginning of a nice twisty and from position 8 make a pass with a full throttle upon exit. Keep working down through the numbers until you highside. Now you have it, the previous setting number is the ideal one and that is the number for your replacement bike.
Genius!


PS, why isn't there a "lol" smiley face?
 

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Too bad you can't do that. You've gotta stop the bike, turn off the motor and adjust the sensitivity. Its a dumb system so people don't high side. Shit, if I had a knob, I WOULD highside! LOL :rolleyes:
Wrong.. it doesn't have to be turned off, it can be changed at a stop in neutral..

and it doesn't stop highsides.. I have a broken wrist, 2 fractured toes, and minor bleeding on the frontal lobe to prove that..






remains of my 1pc Dainese suit after the Trauma team cut it off..

 

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Discussion Starter #10
Wrong.. it doesn't have to be turned off, it can be changed at a stop in neutral..

and it doesn't stop highsides.. I have a broken wrist, 2 fractured toes, and minor bleeding on the frontal lobe to prove that..




Ouch!

I think I see the problem.. Price tag on the visor - couldn't see where you were going..
 

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I have mine set at 6. L8 was hampering my freeway onramp velocity.
Interesting original question suggested possible wheelie upcoming. Ducati so sharp on that, will DTC will NOT interfere wheelie becaues THERE is, for lack of better words, a gyro type system under the seat to detect side slipping. Raw rear wheel spin at acceleration/power wheel is not affected.
Correct me if this is wrong
 

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Wrong.. it doesn't have to be turned off, it can be changed at a stop in neutral..

and it doesn't stop highsides.. I have a broken wrist, 2 fractured toes, and minor bleeding on the frontal lobe to prove that..
WoohHH now! Keep it calm. If the bike is stopped and in neutral, its pretty much off. It takes less time to hit the starter then it does to get it from neutral into first. When I rode the 1198S, I turned it off to adjust because it was too blasted hot outside to be sitting around with the thing pumping heat into my ass! EEK! I thought my 848 was hot!

Shit dude, I didn't know you crashed!!! Where is the thread? What happened?



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I have mine set at 6. L8 was hampering my freeway onramp velocity.
Interesting original question suggested possible wheelie upcoming. Ducati so sharp on that, will DTC will NOT interfere wheelie becaues THERE is, for lack of better words, a gyro type system under the seat to detect side slipping. Raw rear wheel spin at acceleration/power wheel is not affected.
Correct me if this is wrong
Don't know if anything you said was english, but here is how it works:

It senses front/rear wheel speed
It senses direction changes (accelerometer)

If the bike starts to wheely, the accelerometer tells the system its doing a wheely and it is trained to ignore the front wheel input. This basically means, the system is inactive for that brief moment.

The system learns based on how the rider gives the bike input through the throttle, braking and cornering. It determines the best corse of action based on the riding style and compensates. The system will "predict" the next corner and come on early on the exit because it knows you'll be asking for power.

This is why the system is not so great for the street, there is no way to predict what's going to happen next. Ducati should have never released it on a street bike, it should have always been a add-on. It also doesn't save you from anything, if your bike isn't setup well, you've got the wrong tires for the conditions (rain vs dry) or your tires are shagged. In both cases, you still will wind up crashing.

If you wanna learn how to ride better, 1200cc's of Ducati torq and the rider preying the TC system works... is the best way to figure out the hard way how to ride. DTC is a gimmick, Ducati wanted to be the first to offer a REAL race TC system on a "street" bike.



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