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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just got the new schprokets for the new Sport, and I can't get the front nut off to remove the front sprocket. :think: Is that a left hand thread by any chance? It's been a long time since I did this particular change, and I just can't remember, and I don't have the factory manual yet. Also, any idea what the torque settings are for that nut and for the rear axle nut? Thanks! :confused:
 

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ducremus said:
Just got the new schprokets for the new Sport, and I can't get the front nut off to remove the front sprocket. :think: Is that a left hand thread by any chance? It's been a long time since I did this particular change, and I just can't remember, and I don't have the factory manual yet. Also, any idea what the torque settings are for that nut and for the rear axle nut? Thanks! :confused:
The folks at my shop say it is a right hand thread and is held in place with the crimp-over lock nut.


Pick up a copy of the Interactive Technical Docmentation....


I just got my copy and the following is from that documentation.


Front sprocket retaining nut 25x1.5 186Nm* GREASE B

Rear wheel nut 25x1.25 150Nm* GREASE B

* dynamic safety-critical point; tightening torque tolerance within Nm ± 5%.

GREASE B Molybdenum disulphide grease, high mechanical
stress and high temperature resistant.
SHELLRetinax HDX2


Removing the front sprocket Unscrew the screws (14) and remove the sprocket cover (13). Slacken the chain (Sect. D 4).
Engage a low gear, relieve the staking on the lock washer (11) and unscrew
the nut (10).
Remove the lock washer (11) from the gearbox output shaft.
Slide the front sprocket (12) with the chain (9) off the gearbox output shaft
and take the chain off the sprocket.

Refitting the front sprocket Check that the splines of the gearbox
output shaft and the sprocket are in perfect condition.
Engage the chain (9) with the sprocket (12).
Slide the sprocket onto the gearbox output shaft (A).
Fit the lock washer (11) onto the gearbox output shaft.
Apply grease to the output shaft and the contact face of the nut (10).
Put the gearbox into neutral.
Tighten the nut (10) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3).
Stake over the lock washer (11).
Adjust the chain tension (Sect. D 4).
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Got the new Schprockets on: not too bad once I got the front nut broken free, although the instructions don't mention that you've got to almost completely remove the clutch cylinder (?) before the sprocket and chain will slide off. And re-torqueing the front nut-WOW! What a PITA! I had the bike in gear and backed up to a concrete wall, and the tire just spun. I had to have someone else hold the rear brake down hard before I could get the torque setting right.

After taking her for a short spin (41 cold degrees out there today!), I really wish now I had gone one down in front and three up in back instead of one and one. I'll wait and see after it's broken in and I've got some miles on it, but I was hoping for more snap than I got today. Actually, I was hoping for the kind of snap I used to get, a loong time ago, out of my first bike, a Norton 750 Atlas. Only did 110 mph, but man did that thing crank when you twisted the grip! Of course it had terrible brakes, lousy handling, shook like a leaf on a tree, and it leaked oil like a sieve, but......... :D
 
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