I've got a 01 M900 and found a racetech gold valve on the cheap and am trying to install it. Following racetech's instructions I am unable to get the seal head to budge to remove the circlip. Apparently some seal heads have circlips on both sides....does anyone know if this shock does? I've banged pretty hard to press it down but before I give it all the beans I want to double check. Heres what the seal head looks like. Thanks
I see a wire clip down in your bore right on top of the seal housing remaining that needs to come out
Grab a scribe use the straight end of it & find the ends of that clip & dig it out then pull your shaft & all the guts out SLOWLY or your going to get soaked in dirty smelly old shock oil when it goes POP
Yea correct, wireclip is what I meant by "circlip". Problem is you cant get the clip out without pressing down the seal head...and I have tried to press down the seal head with no luck but I havent gone all out on it. What I am concerned is that it was mentioned on Racetech's website that some seal heads have clips on both sides meaning you cant press down on it and need to find another way to get the clip out.
Sounds like you may have found why nobody can or will rebuild those things......they can't.
I was told it's finding seals & parts are nearly impossible to get was the reason.
I have seen photos of rebuilt ones I just dont know how they did it! I may still be able to press the seal head down, I just want to double check on things before I go forcing it.
Before John marking @ fox shocks passed away he & I were working on a protype for my bikes
Basically all we were doing was building a shock that would have been infanatly adjustable with off the shelf parts & I mean EVERY PART no goofball prepriatory expensive junk that never worked in the first place.
Neither one of us could belive the worthless junk inside any OEM Ducati shock we took apart not to mention the crap inside OEM forks but that's another story.
You did depressurize the shock right? I was thinking if that had not been done, it might be that the pressure on the back side of the seal head is keeping it from depressing.
Either way, I'd remove the Schraeder valve so the displaced air and fluid have someplace to go if you manage to get the seal head to move.
I was never able to get mine to the point you've gotten to already. I didn't want to destroy anything in the process of trying to service the thing.
I know it can be done. I researched the possibility for some time before I attempted to tear it down. I've read that the Ohlins seal kits will work for the Sachs.
I don't know that it's true, I have not attempted to fit said Ohlins seals. It would definitely benefit the community if that were proven, or even that anyone could do a rebuild with the correct processes.
On desmodue manual, they say to remove shock clevis, put a rather thick tube around the shaft and press it with 500kg of force, than remove the clip.
The seal head should be in 2 piece with the oil seal sadwiched in between.
On mine i find the new oil seal but not the dust seal, so I had to get it done by a local shop.
maybe not a good idea. Mine is the s4 version, so they added the charging valve.
The first rebuild last 3 months and than loose all the gas throu the charging valve or the oring on gas side.
Now is 2 week since the second rebuild, I'm checking the force needed to compress the shaft without the spring and seems that it still loosing pressure.
do I have to hold the Force while removing the circlip? Or can I use a Hammer and 15mmTube?
(the picture is mounting together at the end)
Tube B is made from what? steel? Plastic?
that's my parts.
there is a kit from K-Tech for sachs 46/14. that looks different.
question is, does that not fit or is the main seal just divided in the outer oring and the shaft seal?
This seal should be ok for all pre 2002 shock.
The tube is steel, they recomend to put 500kg of force to remove the clip. I expect something similiar to mount it.
S4 shock has an external reservoir that can leak nitrogen without leaking oil.
oh, external...sure. mine is from 2000(01?) 900ie without external reservoir.
yes it's open now. it needs a lot of pressure and very sharp, small, hard tools to remove the clip.
i used a "something" to press one end down, and a hard metal scribing needle to move the other/ closing the gap.
without the proper tools,🤬😖😰, a heart attack is only a question of time.
i decided for a complete seal head from S-Tech with bushing and x-ring.
seems the better solution compared to the sachs one.
Did you have some pics of the sutup used to compress the seal head? You removed the clevis?
My seal head has a bushing in the external half head. Its just not lubricate.
I think that post 2002 seal head is quite good.
It has the bushing in the oil side and you can disassemble unscrewing the outer ring.
Ohlins made some balck or blue plastic shaft spacers to set total lenght
"
Yes! this bushing-less iron seal head is shit.
but this rod was still ok. "
Yes not the best design but I also just changed shafts on both a Ohlins and a Penske at the same time. They all fail but it was easy to get the parts for the Penske and Ohlins to fully rebuild them.
shock is ready. new seal head is little shorter. so i got 3mm more length.
mounted another stop plate because of the new "common" top out bumper design.
contrary to the drawing there is no check valve.
and i did not removed the needle valve, don't know how to remove the valve seat. press fit? thread?
not very, I used a homemade brass clamp piece, most important tool is heat, or more heat, to break the strong loctite.
the steel and aluminium needle pieces come out, the needle valve itself is mounted from the piston side.
Ok, so as usual the drawing in the manual is wrong .
In the drawing the needle seems trapped on piston side and only the afjusting rod can come out....
yes, that's what i meant. and a problem. the valve has to be removed and at least cleaned imho.
maybe the seat is inserted and riveted?
"my" piston end of the rod looks different.
no such cone, the valve seat sits little deeper than the rod edge, i think. both flat.
with a garbage shock one could try to bore or grind the edge lighty off.
If it will help you i and i have the right tools i can try some dismantling of the garbage shock, but i don't know if it's made the same of yours. (Its a '02 model)
Can you post some picture of shaft, needle, clevis etc?
i had the problem reversed, since the foot was off and i didn't want the too small clamp (and so not really tight) in the shafts working area. so i used a slotted nut at the clevis thread.
should also work at the piston thread.
Flame heat is the key to remove the clevis.
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