This bike is fast and I want to most from it's steering geometry and suspension damping. I do not see myself as a poser (although it is the coolest looking naked bike ever).
I see where guys have their suspension set-up for static and race sag, but no one talks numbers.
The initial stuff is easy to sequence thru; to measure and set. I'm not even talking about having my damping valving altered (yet). Nor the fluid height in the fork. I'm talking initial geomtries; static sag, race sag, link tuning, spring rates...
There has to be someone out there that can give starting numbers for the suspension sag for my Ohlins for this particular chassis and geometry.
It's not black magic where some guy charges me to take it in a backroom and do it, but give me sag numbers from experience of optimizing the steering throughout the suspension range and to optimize damping charcteristics if the shock is position sensitive. If the rear shock is position sensitive like my WP suspension on another bike, then its paramount to optimize damping operation in the full range of the shock.
So let's say the bike's rear sag (rear spring preload) is set (improperly) to drop real far in the stroke when I get on the bike, then the steering geometry is altered and the bike steers like a truck. I respond by extending my rear shock link to regain steering agility, but maybe the shock is still acting within its most compressed position and really isn't optimized for the correct damping characteristics. See what I'm saying?
My thoughts are to set the rear spring preload to have race sag (the amount of drop in the chassis when fully laden with suited up rider and full tank). Then set the front end. (I think the front spring rate might very well be inadequate and cause me to replace them with the next rate). Then set the rear link length to optimize high speed stability and the balance between under and over-steering when heeled over.
Maybe I don't understand any of it. But it's common to have a rule of thumb for sag settings on a dirtbike and it matters. I know it matters to guys going out on the track with their superbike. I've got to imagine its important for the Monster owner going out on the track, lest he find out the geometry isn't set up properly by crashing. Or at least wondering... He may be told he made a mistake, but maybe the suspension was not set-up for the right geometry and the frontend suddenly over or under-steered and pushed or tucked the frontend. I know I felt a huge difference between the link at its shortest value and now at it's longest setting.
I see the Monster forum filled with what mirrors and turn signals look coolest and that's great, but I also see some guys going out and having at it with their Monsters on the road and track. Have you set up the basics? Can you share the steps and values? How do I opitimize the handling on coolest bike I've owned?
I see where guys have their suspension set-up for static and race sag, but no one talks numbers.
The initial stuff is easy to sequence thru; to measure and set. I'm not even talking about having my damping valving altered (yet). Nor the fluid height in the fork. I'm talking initial geomtries; static sag, race sag, link tuning, spring rates...
There has to be someone out there that can give starting numbers for the suspension sag for my Ohlins for this particular chassis and geometry.
It's not black magic where some guy charges me to take it in a backroom and do it, but give me sag numbers from experience of optimizing the steering throughout the suspension range and to optimize damping charcteristics if the shock is position sensitive. If the rear shock is position sensitive like my WP suspension on another bike, then its paramount to optimize damping operation in the full range of the shock.
So let's say the bike's rear sag (rear spring preload) is set (improperly) to drop real far in the stroke when I get on the bike, then the steering geometry is altered and the bike steers like a truck. I respond by extending my rear shock link to regain steering agility, but maybe the shock is still acting within its most compressed position and really isn't optimized for the correct damping characteristics. See what I'm saying?
My thoughts are to set the rear spring preload to have race sag (the amount of drop in the chassis when fully laden with suited up rider and full tank). Then set the front end. (I think the front spring rate might very well be inadequate and cause me to replace them with the next rate). Then set the rear link length to optimize high speed stability and the balance between under and over-steering when heeled over.
Maybe I don't understand any of it. But it's common to have a rule of thumb for sag settings on a dirtbike and it matters. I know it matters to guys going out on the track with their superbike. I've got to imagine its important for the Monster owner going out on the track, lest he find out the geometry isn't set up properly by crashing. Or at least wondering... He may be told he made a mistake, but maybe the suspension was not set-up for the right geometry and the frontend suddenly over or under-steered and pushed or tucked the frontend. I know I felt a huge difference between the link at its shortest value and now at it's longest setting.
I see the Monster forum filled with what mirrors and turn signals look coolest and that's great, but I also see some guys going out and having at it with their Monsters on the road and track. Have you set up the basics? Can you share the steps and values? How do I opitimize the handling on coolest bike I've owned?
