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THe bike is good, but clearly not set-up for me.

I'm 6' tall and weigh-in at 220lb. I'm assuming full on rear preload, and i'm contemplating raising the dogbone to full-out (currently it's full in) to raise the rear a bit more.

I'm wide open to compression/rebound rear along with front preload and compression/rebound settings.

Expert advice is much appreciated.
 

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Stock S4R's are setup for relativley light riders, 160-185 lbs. Both front and rear prelaod adjustors are only good for a narrow range and will not provide good travel for your weight if you bottom them out. You'll most definatly need a new rear spring and maybe front too. Put a zip tie around one of the front forks and take it for a spirited ride. Avoid heavy use of the front break to avioid diving the fork. When you get back have a look at the position of the zip tie. If its moved down to within an inch or so of the bottom of the fork then its a pretty good sign you'll need a stiffer front springs. If your concern is about suspension setup for general riding then read up on the subject.
http://www.mad-ducati.com/Technical/916Suspension.html

If your need is for track use then I suggest a suspension clinic or taking it to local suspension guru.

2c
 

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What is the stock rear ride height?
I bought my S4Rs used and it feels low in the rear compared to the S4 that I just sold.
The manual doesn't say how many threads should be visible on the rear ride height adjuster, only that it should not exceed 5 threads or 272mm between centers.

Mine currently has zero threads showing - as low as it gos I guess.

thanks,
eddie
 

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What is the stock rear ride height?
I bought my S4Rs used and it feels low in the rear compared to the S4 that I just sold.
The manual doesn't say how many threads should be visible on the rear ride height adjuster, only that it should not exceed 5 threads or 272mm between centers.

Mine currently has zero threads showing - as low as it gos I guess.

thanks,
eddie
When I rode home from the dealership, I was sorely disappointed and a bit scared by the truck-like steering. I heeled it over and had to apply a huge force in the countersteering to get it to react.

It will steer like a truck at its lowest setting and be a bit darty at its highest setting. Take the time to change the link length a turn or two at a time and then take a ride. When you say, "Perfect", take it a bit further to be certain, and then go back to the previous setting. Without of course exceeding the visible thread count as the manual suggested. I dedicated a wrench to this adjustment because the lower jam nut was difficult to get to and allow quick adjustment. I found that if I bent my wrench handle up to about 35~40 degrees, I could get a bite on the various angles presented by the lower hex which is nested into the swingarm.

Just remember that your shock preload collar could be allowing the spring to collapse and when you sit on the bike as the rear spring may not be adjusted for your weight sufficiently, causing a squatting condition. Look at both adjustments and set the rear sag while you're at it.
 

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The rear ride height usually comes collapsed. (0 threads showing) As stated, be aware that increasing the rear ride height will drastically change the handling. The bike WILL turn in quicker. Not necessarily a bad thing but just be aware of it.
 

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I cranked it up to 4 threads showing before I ever really rode it and it fine.
I still need to set sag on the front, I have having issues with setting the preload on the forks. The book says to have 19mm showing, but the ohlins forks are flush, there isn't the area that sticks up like showa forks.

The service manager at my local dealership was clueless as well.
 

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I cranked it up to 4 threads showing before I ever really rode it and it fine.
I still need to set sag on the front, I have having issues with setting the preload on the forks. The book says to have 19mm showing, but the ohlins forks are flush, there isn't the area that sticks up like showa forks.

The service manager at my local dealership was clueless as well.
Sag has nothing to do with how much the fork is sticking up above the top clamp.....

Sag, static and rider, is the amount of travel the fork drops when weight is applied. Static sag is measured with the bike standing up with no rider, you simply measure how much the fork has moved compared to no weight on the bike. Rider sag is how much more the fork drops with the rider onboard.

The 19mm you speak of is static-sag or pre-sag, which is set by turning the two 17mm nuts on the very top of the fork. The two 17mm nuts with adjust the preload of the front springs to make up for different rider weights and road/track conditions.

Dropping the forks (or having them sticking up above the top clamp) has nothing to do with sag or preload, rather it is a suspension mod to get the bike to turn quicker, same idea as raising the rear. If you are going to changing the ride height, go a little at a time. The more rear height you have, the bike will become more unstable at high speeds.
 

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Sorry, I meant that the forks are flush with the top of the fork caps, not the triple clamp (even thought it is flush). See the pics.

The manual says that the the spring preload should be 19mm (see #(2) on fig 25)






It also says that it should be adjusted with a 22mm hex wrench, but a 17mm open end wrench fits. I thought that a hex wrench was a "allen head"



When I see 19mm as the setting, i think of a fork looking like this - with the rings raised up when you turn the adjuster nut.

 

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Sag has nothing to do with how much the fork is sticking up above the top clamp.....

Sag, static and rider, is the amount of travel the fork drops when weight is applied. Static sag is measured with the bike standing up with no rider, you simply measure how much the fork has moved compared to no weight on the bike. Rider sag is how much more the fork drops with the rider onboard.

The 19mm you speak of is static-sag or pre-sag, which is set by turning the two 17mm nuts on the very top of the fork. The two 17mm nuts with adjust the preload of the front springs to make up for different rider weights and road/track conditions.

Dropping the forks (or having them sticking up above the top clamp) has nothing to do with sag or preload, rather it is a suspension mod to get the bike to turn quicker, same idea as raising the rear. If you are going to changing the ride height, go a little at a time. The more rear height you have, the bike will become more unstable at high speeds.
I don't think that the 19mm has to do with sag.

my wife has a 2007 1098 (non S) and her manual shows both the fork settings (Showa & Ohlins).

her manual shows 18mm for the 1098 and 8 mm for the 1098S. The 1098 picture shows the 18mm as the height that I described in the post above, but they don't say anything about the Ohlins preload height or anything about sag (static or rider).
 

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OK, I finally found a Ohlins .pdf manual for the forks.
it looks like one turn of the nut is 1mm of preload.

I guess that I just have to back it all the way out (counterclockwise), then crank it in 19 turns to get to the stock setting.

Then I can finally set the sag.

thanks -

Eddie
 

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OK, I finally found a Ohlins .pdf manual for the forks.
it looks like one turn of the nut is 1mm of preload.

I guess that I just have to back it all the way out (counterclockwise), then crank it in 19 turns to get to the stock setting.

Then I can finally set the sag.

thanks -

Eddie
That's not what they mean......
 

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I think that you are right. I looked at it again and it says that there is only 18mm of adjustment.

Spring preload adjustment
Using a 12 mm or a 17 mm wrench, turn
the upper adjustment screw.
Maximum adjustment range is 18 mm.
One turn of the adjustment screw will
cause 1 mm change in spring preload.
Adjust so the front forks are lowered 25-
30 mm from the top, unloaded position
 

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I suspect the 19mm preload figure stated in the S4R(s) manual refers to the compression of the spring from its free length when installed.

It is not a very useful figure unless you have had the springs out and measured them, and also can calculate how much they would be compressed when installed with the preload adjuster set at minimum.

In case it helps, my S4Rs came from factory set with the fork preload adjusters 10 turns in - so 10mm from min, or about the middle of the adjustment range.
 

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The factory preload adjustment really should have no bearing on where it should be for proper sag. This is a great guidelilne for setting your suspension up: Set up your R&T bike - Öhlins
Again, don't worry about factory settings. Set the bike up according to your weight and riding style.
 

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I suspect the 19mm preload figure stated in the S4R(s) manual refers to the compression of the spring from its free length when installed.

It is not a very useful figure unless you have had the springs out and measured them, and also can calculate how much they would be compressed when installed with the preload adjuster set at minimum.

In case it helps, my S4Rs came from factory set with the fork preload adjusters 10 turns in - so 10mm from min, or about the middle of the adjustment range.
It is easy as pie once you understand what "sag" is. Granted it is compression of the spring, but not as you implied. 19mm of static sag is how much the front forks compress under the weight of the bike starting at a fully extended position, as if you lifted the bike's front end and measured how much the forks compressed when you set it down. 19mm is what Ducati is recommending. Rider sag is the added compression of the forks when the rider is in position on the bike, say another 20mm for a total of 39mm total sag. The blue adjusting nuts on top of the ohlins (on the S4RS) will compress the springs so you can adjust the pre sag.... not 19 turns out or whatever....

I start all the way in and loosen them until I get the amount of sag I want. It is helpful to have a buddy help you hold the bike upright, etc. Hope this helps......
 

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I plan to set sag once I can get some help.

I have quite a bit of experience with setting suspensions from 10 years of road racing (and 8 race bikes). I know that you need two good helpers (other then the rider) to get accurate readings.

I just wanted to get it in the ball park. The previous owner was short and had the compression and rebound on full soft front and back and the shock preload way out.

I just couldn't figure out the fork preload. it didn't feel like the anything was happening when I turned the top nut and after 10 turns I was getting worried that I would damage something. The manual just confused me more.

I have only ridden the bike about 100 miles total and no good roads yet. once it warms up and I can get some friends to help me I plan to have 35mm rider sag. the static sag only tells you if your springs are in the right range.
 

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I plan to set sag once I can get some help.

I have quite a bit of experience with setting suspensions from 10 years of road racing (and 8 race bikes). I know that you need two good helpers (other then the rider) to get accurate readings.

I just wanted to get it in the ball park. The previous owner was short and had the compression and rebound on full soft front and back and the shock preload way out.

I just couldn't figure out the fork preload. it didn't feel like the anything was happening when I turned the top nut and after 10 turns I was getting worried that I would damage something. The manual just confused me more.

I have only ridden the bike about 100 miles total and no good roads yet. once it warms up and I can get some friends to help me I plan to have 35mm rider sag. the static sag only tells you if your springs are in the right range.
After fully tightened, my preload adjusters are backed out only two turns. I weigh 190 and I probably could benefit from a new set of stronger springs. My weight is right on the verge of needing them. I don't use the bike for track or really aggressive street riding, maybe next year I will install a new set. I was planning on trading/selling the bike so I never got around to doing it. I also run the compression/rebound both at 13 clicks out give or take. Probably if I sent them to an expert and had the springs changed and new oil they would handle a bit better, but that is not cheap. Earlier this month I did the 7,500 mile valve check, new belts, fuel filter, tires...... so my budget for the bike is pretty dry at this time.
 

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It is easy as pie once you understand what "sag" is. Granted it is compression of the spring, but not as you implied. 19mm of static sag is how much the front forks compress under the weight of the bike starting at a fully extended position, as if you lifted the bike's front end and measured how much the forks compressed when you set it down. 19mm is what Ducati is recommending.
Sure, except that the 19mm figure is quoted on the pictured manual page not for static sag but for preload:



It could be that Ducati has got its terminology wrong, in the manual.

Or it could be that the figure alludes to the difference between the free length of the spring and the preloaded length: that is, the preload, in mm, that is applied to the spring when the adjuster is set as recommended. ;)
 

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Or it could be that the figure alludes to the difference between the free length of the spring and the preloaded length: that is, the preload, in mm, that is applied to the spring when the adjuster is set as recommended. ;)
If that is so, a few question arise.....

#1 With the preload adjusters backed out all the way, is the spring compressed at all? If so, how much?

#2 If the spring has no preload when the adjuster is backed out all the way (which is 18 turns) how would you get 19mm of spring compression when the adjuster rate is 1mm per turn?

#3 What would be the point of measuring static sag using the usual method if Ohlins wanted you to measure spring compression.

#4 No where in the manual does it go through the procedure of setting static/rider sag..... I wonder why.

Shazam (member here) has some super posts dealing with the subject, good read when you have the time.
 
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