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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Is it possible to remove the spade clips from the connector?

I'd like to replace them as they're a bit burnt but I'm not sure how to remove and replace them without destroying the plug.
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If it's the same as similar connectors you can insert a small precision screwdriver into the rear of it and depress the tangs to withdraw the spade.
 
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You can also just cut the connector off and solder the wires. Some heat shrink tubing to insulate and no more problems with the weak-link connector.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'm kinda inclined to keep the connecter for now, as I'm still troubleshooting my charging issue.

That said, the one I have is toast. Does anyone know if/where a new one can be sourced that pairs with the other half?
 

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It's just a standard connector you should be able to source from any decent auto parts store.
Cut the old one off close to the plug and take it with you as a sample.
 

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The other half will be highly suspect anyway. I suggest chop them out and use a temporary chocolate block connector, because your next step might be proving the RR. If you have fixed the problem you can solder or purchase a new plug/s that suits you . If the RR turns out to be faulty, your new one ( common replacement Shindengen FH020AA ) has a plug built in so you would not really want another plug half way up those wires.
 

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Do Radio Shack stil carry electronic components? There equivalent store here (Jaycar) has those as a stock line.
 

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For all your connector needs in the US, go to Vintage Connections - Motorcycle Terminals and Connectors - Vintage Connections Matthew is the owner and he can supply the connectors.

I would recommend that you replace the damaged "housing" and the spades on both sides. There should be more than enough cable length to do that.

Matt can sell you a modern MOSFET R/R and the correct connectors for a decent upgrade. Spacing of the mounting bolts might be slightly different, but it's a worthwhile upgrade. Avoid the cheap Chinese MOSFET "equivalents" on ebay.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for all the replies, I appreciate it.

I ordered connectors and a good crimper from Cycleterminal suggested by @Ricko. I'll check out Vintage Connections next time --looks like another great resource.

The plan is to cut out the other remaining housing and install new connectors and housing on both ends. The alternator seems to be putting out enough juice and I'm hoping the RR will be happy enough with good connections.

Just waiting on parts at this point...
 

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I noticed my connector had signs of being warm. Slight off-color to the connector housing. No charring. But since connectors are never meant to be heaters, I chose to cut mine out, and I used wire nuts. This is the 2nd bike I've tried this on. First one was a Honda V45 Sabre. The gent that sold me that bike went thru and put oversized connectors on the AC wires going to the RR. They still were warm when running. The wire nuts solved that problem. They run cool on my ST4s for years now...
 
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You can get waterproof wire nuts that are pre-filled with silicone to resist corrosion at the connection — or you can just add your own silicone sealer (messy).
 

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We used to call them Molex style connector but I think their real name is a mulitway 6.3mm power connector. Example here


Make sure you get the locking type (i did not) and i would advise getting spare terminals as you always muff a few connections. I soldered to the connector then crimped
I had a small issue as you can see, this is where it end if you don't address it at your stage
 

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No I have not measured the AC current. It's a bit weird, because it's not an RMS waveform anymore, due to the way the RR chops up the sinewaves. If you had a dummy load (resistive) on the 3 yellow wires, it would be worth measuring. I did this on 2-wire stator for a Moto Guzzi that I had. I wired up a heater from a hair drier that I scavenged. Turned out, I could only load it for maybe 200W, but at least that told me that "with load", that I still had 70 or so volts (revved) under that load. In that case, a 3-wire DUC RR "fixed" the problem. I was originally getting only 12.5V at the battery. 14V using the DUC RR. I just used 2 yellow wires (input), and taped back the unused wire.
 
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